new build started (updated)

Honestly, I use RCBS dies for most everything. A few of my rifles shoot good enough that I am looking at upgrading dies. As to what, I'm not sure yet. Looking hard at some redding comp dies.
 
Redding Competition dies are capable of turning out some very high quality ammo - I'd buy with no reservation.

I know a fellow with a custom .260 that shoots very well. He did some target competition with it, but mostly contents himself with the annual prairie dog and/or sage rat shoot with it anymore... Quite the rifle!

Yes, there are some good sources of info for precision handloading - though much of that info gets discussed here on a regular basis.

The Rifle Shooter by David Tubb (National Champion High Power about a million times)

Zediker's book "Handloading for Competition" might be just what you want:

http://www.zediker.com/books/handloading/hlmain.html

Also the new loading manual from Berger has some good info for precision handloading.

Guy
 
Guy Miner":3adnqlp9 said:
Zediker's book "Handloading for Competition" might be just what you want:

http://www.zediker.com/books/handloading/hlmain.html

This is a good book...dated in some peoples eyes, but still a good resource.

Also the new loading manual from Berger has some good info for precision handloading.

Guy

I just picked up a copy of this yesterday and started reading some of it last night. There is quite a bit of good info in it. Bryan Litz is the chief ballistition for Berger and has a great book out called "Applied Ballistics for Long-Range Shooting". It will not give you the ins and outs of reloading, but will help in understanding the factors that effect bullets we shoot.

The rifles that I shoot competition with or are built for LR shooting all have competition bushing die sets used for reloading. This allows me to play with neck tension on the bullet and reduces the "working" of the brass. I only use Lapua brass for these calibers. Redding and Forster both make quality bushing die sets. I have some of each.
 
Thank you gentlemen! That book from Zediker sounds just about perfect for what I'm looking for. Did some research on die sets this morning a bit and I'm liking the locking collar on the Forster in the way they described it. If I had the Forster bushing bump neck die would I even need a full length resizing die? I was thinking that and their ultra micrometer seating die and I'd be good to go. My only question is if there is any issue with the seating die using VLD bullets? I know Redding makes a seating plug for standard and a separate one for the VLD's, of which I will at least be testing in this rifle.
 
The seating die for my 6.5X47 is a Forster and I am using VLD's for all my loads right now...not a problem. I prefer the full length sizing die to a neck sizing die. You can adjust the full length die to only size as much of the neck as you want and still bump the shoulder back a 1000th every time you use it. Others may have different advice, but this works for me.
 
Thanks 257Ackley. I was referring to the bushing bump neck die though not the neck die only. It says it sizes the neck and also bumps the shoulder, in which case I wouldn't need the full length die unless I'm missing something right? I've typically set my rcbs full length dies up to do a partial resize but this set up sounds easier and with the added bonus of being able to control neck tension with different size bushings.

This one: http://www.forsterproducts.com/store.asp?pid=36223
 
Yes, thats the one you want. Nice thing with Forster bushing dies is they come with three bushings. The Redding bushing dies don't come with any bushings and the titanium bushings are about $20 each.
 
Like DF, some years back I settled on an arbor press and Wilson dies for those rifles I expect the most accuracy from. It's a different way of loading, and I really enjoy it. Plus, as DF said, runout is virtually eliminated. Very precise dies...

And, am really looking forward to your reports on this rifle, from the range and in the field.

Guy
 
DF & Guy, I had never even seen the Arbor press method of reloading, but it certainly has my attention! If nothing else it would make my reloading process much more portable. The place I normally shoot is an hour drive so being able to load at the range would make load development so much nicer! And if the concentricity and precision are as good as you say, that's just icing on the top. Good thing Christmas is coming up.... Cause I'm quickly running out of cash!

And speaking of cash, I still need a trigger for this one. Trying to decide between a timney or a jewel and if the jewel is worth the extra money or not. Also, is this something I can install myself? I'm fairly handy, and have adjusted my own Remington trigger before for pull but haven't ever played with aftermarket triggers.
 
Get the Jewel. They are easy to install but it's best to have the right size punches to drive out the pins. The Jewel's are easier to install than a Remington and many others because the assembly has bushings to hold it together. The hardest part about installing one is the Remington bolt stop and the Stiller action has that built in so it's just driving two pins in.
 
shoots_5":191i1fpk said:
Trying to decide between a timney or a jewel and if the jewel is worth the extra money or not.

A jewell trigger is well worth the difference in cost. Buy it without the bolt stop since you already have one on your action. Jewells are getting hard to find right now (especially the HVRT) because of a contract they have going with a big distributor in Europe. Sinclaire still has some at an inflated cost.
 
Larry is a good guy to work with. I bought my last BR trigger form him. He is a little sour about Jewell right now because of the way they have catered to the Euro company that is getting all of Jewells attention right now, but he has been selling Jewell triggers for many years.
 
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