Pressure point question

[257 Ackley]

I have a Remington rifle that has a pressure point near the front of the forearm at about the point of the sling swivel. If the rifle won't shoot MOA, should that be one of the first areas to start playing with to help? What would be the way to check and see if this is part of the problem with it not shooting MOA? Most of my barrels are free-floated, so I am not sure how the pressure points help or hurt with accuracy.

 

[JD338]

257 Ackley

Yes, you can play with the pressure point but remember, it permanent!

I would suggest you take out the barreled action and cut up a business card, place it between the action and stock in front of the recoil lug. Add enough shims to free float the barrel and then torque down the action screws to the correct spec.

If this does work, than you can sand down the pressure point later.

JD338

 

[DrMike]

JD has given great advice. Whilst free floating is popular, sometimes rifles like a little pressure. When you relieve the barrel channel, it is permanent. Though you can add back epoxy and/or glass, don't get in a hurry until you have verified that the pressure is indeed the reason you are not getting the groups you want.

 

[FOTIS]

JD is spot on. For a Remmy the correct action screw torque is 28 inch/lbs. While freeloating really helps a good-excellent barrel most factory barrels are massed produced and not all that great. A rem factory barrel costs Rem 30-50 bucks to make so you have an idea of what you're getting. Same as Ruger Win etc.

Proof of this is when someone spends good money on a custom gun it is 98% of the time free floated. Unless you have a super paper thin barrel you rarely need a pressure point if the barrel is a good one. :wink:

 

[257 Ackley]

The barrel is a stainless fluted barrel on the limited edition model from 2008. I took the barreled action out of the stock today to adjust the trigger. Not sure what it is torqued back to, but it had the pressure point when I bought it that would not allow me to slide a piece of paper past the front stud from the beginning.

 

[YoteSmoker]

That pressure point 2" into the forend is typical of m700 and m7 rifles I've encountered except for the sendero which uses an hs precision stock with an aluminum bedding block. (not real fun to carry at 10,000 ft btw).

 

[Desert Fox]

Leave it alone. Shoot your rifle first and see how she does. My buddy have a Model 7-308 that shoots well until he removed the pressure point. The accuracy went south after that.

 

[257 Ackley]

I have about 60 rounds through the barrel right now. Still trying some different loads to see what will get to MOA at least. The best three shot group so far is about 1.5 inches, which is not what I expect from any rifle I shoot. I am thinking about what the "next steps" will be to try and get to at least MOA if the loads I shoot this weekend don't work.

 

[bullet]

Leave it alone. Shoot your rifle first and see how she does. My buddy have a Model 7-308 that shoots well until he removed the pressure point. The accuracy went south after that.

Yes, leave it a lone and do as Desert Fox has suggested. Shoot it and clean it, shoot it and clean it, shoot it and clean it. Put at least 150 -200 rounds through your rifle before you decide it needs work.

Also, when at the bench, do not use the last 3/4 of the forearm of the stock to be placed on your rest at the bench. Make sure your rest is as far back as you can get it on the stock and still shoot it comfortably. Putting extra pressure on the end of the forearm and not putting your stock in the same place each time on the rest will impact accuracy because it impacts barrel harmonics by changing the pressure on the barrel.

My 30-06 I just got did not even start to tighten up till around a 100 rounds.

 

[JD338]

257 Ackley

What caliber and loads are you shooting?

I have owned several M700 rifles and calibers and every single one shot better than MOA. You might just need to find the right load

I would not be too concerned about the accuracy until you put 200 rounds down the pipe. One suggestion is to use some JB Bore paste with your cleanings.

If after this, it still doesn't shoot, try shimming the action to free float the barrel.

JD338

 

[rick smith]

First thing I do to a 700 or Mod 7, clean the barrel, float the barrel and bed the action. I have had close to 100 of them and have never had one shoot better with pressure on the barrel, especially the wooden stocks. I have bought them used because they "didn't shoot well", all those had pressure points.Rick.

 

[257 Ackley]

JD -
It is the limited edition .260 from 2008. I have played with several powders now: R15, R17 and R19 along with H414 (Powerstroke's suggestion). All other components have been the same throughout the process. The first 20 rounds were "shoot one and clean". The next 40 have been three shot groups with different powder charges, clean before the next three. I use Butches bore shine to clean between groups and have no powder or copper fouling showing on the patches before stopping the cleaning process. One thing I have noticed already is that the throat is short and bullets need to be seated deeper than I would like. I have never had a fluted barrel before and don't know if that makes a difference with barrel harmonics and pressure points.

Rick -
I have bedded a few Rugers through the years. Besides the action, how much of the barrel do you bed when you do your Remingtons?

 

[Antelope_Sniper]

I'm with Rick. First thing I do to a new rifle is freefloat the barrel. I've tried it the other way, and everyone of them has adventually ended up freefloated, so any more, I just start with a floated barrel on my first trip to the range. If I ever had a really light barreled rifle, I'd probably leave in the pressure point, but then again, I don't ever expect to own a really light barreled rifle.

 

[YoteSmoker]

I free floated and glass bedded my older M7 308 with 18.5" barrel. Still couldn't get it to shoot to my liking and sold it. Loved the size and weight but just could never get it to shoot as accurately as I had hoped. The last time I had it out to the range, I was frustrated with the groups and my boss told me "most guys would be happy with a gun that shot like that". I said "yeah, you're probably right that's why it's for sale" as I cased it back up.

 

[Anonymous]

I pretty much agree with all the other post. However, IN theory, a pressure point is an advantage. It effectively shortens the barrel, thus making it stiffer. Witness the bulk of benchrest rifles out there. Now comes the big a big butt. A rifle bedded in that fashion is difficult to shoot consistently to the same point, by way of the harmonics of the same barrel. Let's say your pressure point applies 5lb. of pressure. Depending on how your bench technique is, you could easily lean on or off the gun enough to change that 5lb. of pressure to something else. Further, depending on the humidity, your stock will grow or shrink and change that pressure. Given enough pressure, the barrel can move and "stick" in a different spot with each shot. If your bench technique is good, you could shoot better on a given day with a properly pressure bedded gun than the same gun could do free floated. But, you still can't predict where that gun would shoot in different temperatures or a different humidity. SO, I would absolutely free float the barrel. If you like, you could bed the reciever and rear tang area and also the chamber area of the barrel. Like some of the other posters, with any new rifle, I bed the thing myself leaving the barrel floated. Thus believing the gun to be more predictable. My own experience with Remington's is that they will shoot but many have rough barrels. Besides playing with seating depth in your loads I would think about fire lapping the barrel. I've had good luck with that and the least gain is a barrel that is easier to clean. The last Sendero I had would shoot but was very fussy. It was a 300WM, and I eventually discovered that it shoot reasonable but had to be cleaned after 10 shots or the group would go to hell. I grew unhappy and just traded it off. I should have fire lapped it but I found a 280LSS anniversary edition I couldn't live without. good luck.........

 

[JD338]

257 Ackley

What bullet are you shooting? Have you tried the 120 gr BT? It is a proven accurate bullet.
I think I would try shimming the action to free float the barrel and try it before you make any permanent changes. I think a JB Paste treatment will smooth out the barrel too.

After doing the above, try re shooting the 2-3 best loads you have to date and see where you are.

JD338

 

[rick smith]

257, I bed the chamber area and float the remainder of the barrel.Rick.

 

[Powerstroke]

257 Ackley

You mention you're having to seat the bullets deeper than you want ? Compared to ??
Remember those 6.5 projectiles are mini-missels.....
Cant remember what the middle bullet is, I think a 140gr 7mm and the one on the left is a 30 Cal 200 gr A-bond..... bullet on the right is a 140gr Berger 6.5

Don't get discouraged yet

 

[old #7]

I could be way out of line here but I believe that Remington and other manufactures use the pressure point to keep the wood stocks from warping too much. The pressure point is always in the same place regardless of the barrel type.
I am with the float it and bed the rifle crowd.
I have two Rem 700 ltd editions, (2006 aniversary 30-06 and the 2007 aniversary 280) Both shot good right out of the box but after floating and bedding they shoot 1/2" groups consistantly.

If I was you I would bed the action and float the barrel now. 200 rounds down the road when you decide to float and bed it you will have to re- shoot the loads that you thought were bad.
Pressure points are easily put in where ever the barrel needs it if it does.

 

[Antelope_Sniper]

I dont' know a single benchrest shooter that uses a pressure point. At least not one what's ever won anything.