question

Flakjkt

Beginner
Jan 5, 2006
26
0
What is the most likely cause of the bolt being hard to close with handloads. Oal is not problem. Case lenght? Not forceing bolt closed some reloads just tougher than others.
 
Sounds like you need to screw down the sizer die some more, if your rounds are hard to chamber BEFORE you fire them.

Try this:

Find fired empty case

Resize, trim to length

Try to chamber empty case in rifle.

If you can't chamber easily, turn sizer die 1/4 turn and try again. Keep trying until the bolt closes without any undue force(put the rubber mallet away, you shouldn't need it).

ZM
 
I think Zeke hit on your problem. Try coloring the shoulder with a magic marker and adjust the sizer down a little at a time until the die wipes half or more of the shoulder clean. You don`t want to over do it and push the shoulder back too far. The cartridge should just chamber with little or no resistance.
If you wonder about the AOL being too long color the bullet ogive, it will show rifleing marks if it hits.
 
flakjkt,

Are the fired cases from the same rifle? If not, you may need to screw down your resizing die.

Is your die screwed all the way down? If so, you may be bumping back the shoulder and creating a slight buldge. Then you will have to back it off.

I always neck size my cases. This gives longer case life. Rarely have any issues with closing the bolt on a reload.

Let us know how things work out for you.

Regards,

JD338
 
Thanks guys I have reloaded for years and only run across this every so often. I will try this. Thanks for your help and time.
 
First don't start with the FL die in contact with the shell holder. Get 6-8 fired cases, clean and lube them. Start by backing the FL die 1/2 turn from contact with the shell holder, remove the expander ball from the die, size a case and try it in your chamber. Probably won't fit, screw the die down 1/8 turn, try another case. As you get closer to contact with the shell holder, decrease the amount you move the die downward. Using a different case each time decreases work hardening. Once you get a case sized that the bolt just closes on with a very slight resistance STOP. Lock the ring, install the expander ball and try another case. You may need to make a slight adjustment due to moving the shoulder with the expander ball. If you polish the expander ball to a mirror finish and use a dry lube inside the neck your loading will be much easier. The above is called PFL, partially full length sizing. It will be specific to your chamber. I neck size the brass until it starts to get tight in the chamber, normally 4 shots or better and then set the FL die. Stoney Point makes a tool to measure to the datum line on the shoulder, it will allow you to know how much you have moved the shoulder, 0.001-0.002" is all it needs to be moved.Rick.
 
The answers are excellent. One question. Do you have extraction problems when ejecting fired cases? If so there could be a case head expansion issue due to some over-pressure loads in the past. Try measuring the case heads with a caliper about a quarter inch up from the groove above the case rim and comparing to the dimensions in reloading manuals or a new unfired case. Some chambers are tighter than others and can be real finnicky about this. I had a sako.308 like that and had to chamber each reload before charging them with powder and bullets.
Good luck and let us know what you find for our future knowlege.
Good Hunting!
 
No extraction problem at all. This is great detailed info. I am very non technical reloader I know what works and how NOT to blow myself up but tech detail eludes me.
 
Generally I do what would be called a partial resizing. I keep a space, about the width of a nickel, between the shell holder and the die. I have never had any problems with my shot brass not working in my rifles. Granted new brass is full length resized but after that the above method just slightly bumps the shoulder back and allows for good accruacy and good fit.

Long
 
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