Rebarreling?

[wisconsinteacher]

I have never had a rifle rebarreled but if things don't change soon with my 7mmRM I might consider doing it. It is a Browning A-Bold Medallion with a blued barrel. I would like to have a blued barrel and possibly keep it 7mmRM as far as caliber. My questions are, what should a guy expect to pay for this change and do you have anyone that you recommend to work on Browning rifles?

 

[Dwh7271]

Lot of folks do them.
Pac-Nor just did one for me. They did a good job. Wasn't a Browning though.
Cost was around 560-600.
Hart does them and some others also.
I'm sure some of the others will know of others.

 

[ksubuck]

Remind me what your rifle set up is. Kind of stock, bedding, etc. I had some difficulties with my Abolt in 7 RM years ago but got it to come around with some stock and bedding work. I seem to recall you have some good groups but have trouble repeating them. What different powders and bullet have you tried?

My smith is 550 for a rebarrel. I haven't had him work on an Abolt before but he says they aren't a problem and he has all of the tools he needs. If he does a good job I will let you know.

 

[wisconsinteacher]

It is a wood stock that is free floated the entire length. I have tried 150 Partitions and 150 Combined Tech bullets with IMR4350, RL25 and RL22. The Combined Techs will shot MOA but the next time out will go 3 MOA. The Partitions just won't group. I do plan on trying 160 AccuBonds (if I can ever get some from SPS) before I sell the rifle or rebarrel. I have a Leupold VX-III 3.5-10 on the rifle.

I tried adding pressure to the stock but that did not help shrink the groups. I'm getting to the point of sending it down the road if things don't change soon.

 

[wildgene]

...I wouldn't give up on it till you tried a heavier bullet. I had one 7mm I got a box of the old Hornady 139gr. Frontier ammo thrown in when I bought it. Shot that whole box 18-36" high left, most of what hit the backstop were keyholed. Shot my 160 & 175gr., & surprisingly enough, my 100gr. loads under a MOA. I'd find some Nosler CC's or Sierra SBT's to do most of my load work, save the Accubonds till all you needed to do was tweek 'em, use the CC's/ SBT's for practicing positional shooting...

...on a side note, the 100gr. Sierra Varminteers make great practice loads...

 

[sask boy]

That is unusual as I have had a couple of Browning rifles an they shot very well. I have loaded for two 7mm mags for a number of years using 160gr. ABs and they work well in both rifles. I sure hope that you get the opportunity to try them before your final decision is made.
If you get some Accubonds to try, I use IMR4350 powder & 215 M primers they are shooting right around 3,000fps.

Blessings,
Dan

 

[wisconsinteacher]

I am looking waiting for SPS to post some 160 AccuBond 2nds on sale so I can grab a few to try.

 

[sask boy]

Here in Canada I have never seen seconds from any manufacturer. I wish we could grab them in the smaller calibres.
Good luck in your quest.

Blessings,
Dan

 

[Anonymous]

It is a wood stock that is free floated the entire length. I have tried 150 Partitions and 150 Combined Tech bullets with IMR4350, RL25 and RL22. The Combined Techs will shot MOA but the next time out will go 3 MOA. The Partitions just won't group. I do plan on trying 160 AccuBonds (if I can ever get some from SPS) before I sell the rifle or rebarrel. I have a Leupold VX-III 3.5-10 on the rifle.

I tried adding pressure to the stock but that did not help shrink the groups. I'm getting to the point of sending it down the road if things don't change soon.

Sounds frustrating. I had some sketchy accuracy with those Combined Technology bullets... that coating built up in the barrel pretty fast and accuracy wasn't repeatable.

Sounds like it wants to shoot.... I'd likely try Browning first before I re-barreled or have the crown done. I'd also just try some different factory loads with heavier bullets- Federal Blue Box or Remington Corelokt. I've have a couple of finicky rifles that shot one (or both) of those really well.

 

[wisconsinteacher]

I have no problem contacting Browning, I am just wondering if there is anything specific that I need to ask them when I contact them.

 

[BretN]

I too would suggest trying a heavier bullet. If you can't find Nosler 160 gr BT's or AB's, get a box of Sierras 160 Gameking in SBT or HPBT. Going from 150 to 165 grain made a huge difference in my 30-06. It shoots the Sierra Gameking HPBT bullet under a 1/2". Haven't taken deer with that bullet, but I will be using it this fall. Sierra claims the HPBT is tougher than the SBT and designed for magnum velocities. Might be worth trying before a re-barrel.

Or try bedding the stock, or getting something like a Bell and Carlson from Stocky's. Any of their medalist stocks are about $250. I have one on my 280 and like it. My 280 has been my problem child. After restocking, trying various loads, and making sure the barrel is completely clean using Sweet's 7.62, it is finally shooting well again. But it's been a long journey. Good luck with yours.

BN

 

[Darkhorse]

Before I did anything else to that rifle I would contact Browning. I have contacted them on both my .300 Win Mag. and my Maxus. Of course they will want the rifle and that's the best course of action.
Back in '97 you actually talked to someone who knew something. My problem was going from a blued steel bolt gun (Model 700) to a stainless. I was taught to throw the bolt from the shoulder immediately upon firing, if you don't you have an unloaded gun. And with the new Browning the bolt always hung up or missfed. Turned out the problem was me and the way I was pushing the bolt. But before I cooled off and learned my new rifle they offered to replace the gun with anything I wanted, of course I had to pay any difference in value. But what the engineer told me on the phone (good old days) was stainless was just sticky enough to want to grab a little, and I was slamming the bolt sideways and that would not work with stainless. So I learned to slam it straight.

Now the Maxus was different. The guy I talked to didn't know squat. He kept telling me I wasn't resetting the trigger. I finally got a little hot and told him "After probably 100,000 rounds with auto shotguns, rifles and pistols, I know for a fact I'm resetting the trigger." He said, "Well send it in and we will look at it but we can't fix it if you don't know how to work a trigger."
I fixed it myself. Turned out the grooves in the safety were cut to close to the minor tolerance and the safety had to be really clicked off hard. That was several hundred rounds ago without another hitch.
But anyway I would definitely give them a try. Over the years I've used Ruger, Browning, TC and S&W service. They built it. It's their reputation. Let them make it right.
Just tell them what it's doing.

 

[Tjay]

I have loaded for a 7 mag for 20 years and have had great results with IMR7828 and 150gr BTs.
With 160gr ABs IMR4831 and mag pro have done well and 140s of any make and R22 has worked great.
Note. This is the rifle my wife uses and she shot a truck load of deer with 140 Sierra pro hunters.

 

[ksubuck]

Have you rebedded the rifle or is it the original factory bedding? How much torque you putting on the action screws?