Redding Type-S FL Bushing Die...how to adjust it properly !

[jagermeister]

Hi Guys,
I have bought the Redding resizing Die in the subject for the .300 WM and would like to gather the knowledge to properly adjust it.
I've read bits here and there...
If I understand correctly, this Die works with, let's say, two separate parts....one being the Die itself, resizing the entire body case and the other being the bushing, working the neck only...
I've read to set the bushing correctly one needs to screw the decapping rod in all the way down till it touches the bushing, then 1/4 turn back, to allow the bushing to "float" and self-center itself.
What about the Die into the press ?
Would I need to screw it down until it touches the shell holder with the ram all the way up ?

I would like, if possible, to full length size only enough for the case to chamber, without excessively working on the shoulder.
Enough headspace, but not too much... :wink:
I know the .300 WM is suppose to headspace on the belt, but still....

Thank you in advance to Those who will chip in !

 

[jimbires]

I don't use FL bushing dies . mine are neck sizing bushing dies that I use with a body die .

 

[257 Ackley]

Start by deciding whether you are going to use the die with the sizing button or not. If not, remove the button from the decapping rod and put the other attachment for the decapping pin. Place the bushing you will use into the die (bushing size down) and screw the top back down into the die body. Screw this down until it touches the bushing. Back it off from the bushing until you can hear a faint rattle of the bushing inside the die body. You can set up a FL sizing die to be a bump die so it only works the shoulder area of the case. There are several different methods to check the bump of the shoulder...I use this one: http://www.larrywillis.com/

By bumping the shoulder back .002, you should not have a problem closing the bolt on a reloaded case and will extend the life of your brass. The most accurate way to find the correct bump for your case (minimum bump) is to remove the firing pin spring from your bolt to remove the "load" of the spring tension.

 

[jagermeister]

Yes, I have removed the sizing button and replaced it with the undersized one.
Then I started with the Die well away from the shellholder, adjusting after checking the HS.
I had to screw it down almost touching the SH.
HS measurement gave me an average decrease of 0.002".
Then I have used an expander mandrel from Sinclair.
I am now going to test chamber these cases, prior to loading, to check for any "forcing".

Two things I have noticed :

1. Even with the bushing set all the way down into the die ( minus 1/16 turn back for a bit of floating/alignment) there's still approximately 0.07" not sized. I hope this won't be a problem for the future...

2. I have measured the neck's run-out, prior to expanding the inside neck and I've got the exact same amount after the expander has been through.

P.S.: I have tried the "size and turn" method....resizing the case - ram down - turn approx. 1/3 - resize again - ram down - turn and resize and it seems to give better results than a straight "up and down" :wink:
Anyone tried it ?

:wink:

 

[jimbires]

you are correct , the bushing dies do not size the neck completely to the shoulder .


I don't use any expander with my bushing dies . I use a bushing that gives me the correct size I want . I do neck turn my brass . if you are not neck turning you probably are better off using an expander . the expander will push the neck imperfections out to leave you with a perfectly round hole . otherwise the bullet will be used to round out the hole .