Refinishing a Rem 700 BDzl wood stock?

Brinky72

Beginner
Jan 25, 2019
220
123
Figured this was the best place to post this. I’m delving into refinishing the wood stock on my Remington 700 BDL It’s a 1980 vintage 270 that I got from my uncle and it’s getting that orange red hue to it. I’m going the rubbed linseed route. I’ve watched a ton of videos about it and it doesn’t seem too difficult requiring more patience than skill especially given that I’m Refinishing and the wood is already sanded and smooth. I’ll be getting some fine grit sand paper to smooth any scratches actually in the wood. Have any of you have experience doing a refinishing job with boiled linseed that could give me any final pointers and advice? All information greatly appreciated in advance.
 
Any scratches can be pulled out with a damp rag and a clothes iron. The steam will cause the wood fibers to swell filling in the scratch or ding.
You will also want to wet down the wood and then let it dry. Sand it down smooth. Repeat this 3-4 times before you apply the oil. Light coats of oil and let it dry.
The finish will be beautiful.

JD338
 
Good luck with your project. Please share photos before and after. My father used boiled linseed oil thinned with turpentine as a finish on cherry furniture that he built. I think he decreased the turpentine as he added multiple coats. Slow and easy will produce a beautiful result.
 
The easiest way to deal with a shiny Remington stock is to dip red scotch brite in polyurethane and apply in a circular fashion scrubbing the poly into the existing finish. Stay off the checkering. When it dries it will be a perfect dull or satin. I’ve done it to several over the years.
 
Keep us posted on your project. I'm just waiting for the last of my stock refinishing supplies to arrive over the next week. I'm refinishing a Rem 700 and Rem 788 starting next week. Am going with the Birchwood Casey kit for these (ie Tru Oil). Will be doing another Rem 700 for a friend next month, and am leaning Tung Oil on that one instead of Tru Oil as I'll have more time then.
 
I didn't like that shiny finish on my Remington 700 BBL so one day gave it a light rubdown with four O steel wool (0000) Had to be careful o the sharp edges but now it has a nice dull look of a well done oil finish. Just rub it down just enough to dull the shine. I like the way it came out and a once over with some Pledge and it looks great.
Paul B.
 
PJGunner":2jdb90hn said:
I didn't like that shiny finish on my Remington 700 BBL so one day gave it a light rubdown with four O steel wool (0000) Had to be careful o the sharp edges but now it has a nice dull look of a well done oil finish. Just rub it down just enough to dull the shine. I like the way it came out and a once over with some Pledge and it looks great.
Paul B.
I've done the exact same thing and have had the same results. Quick and easy, the stock stays sealed and your set to go.

JD338
 
I do have a pic or two of it in original condition somewhere. I just need to figure out the “how” part. Never been much on posting pictures, here or anywhere. I’ll have to work on it. It’s currently waiting to bubble up to be cleaned off. I’m taking my time and there’s no timeline for me.
JD, oddly enough the only mark is in the black “ebony” fore end tip. Quick certain that’s some sort of plastic that will just have to be chalked up as character.

I’m doing this to give it a classic look and serve the rifle justice. This is one of the finest shooting “stock” rifles I’ve seen. It will get a replacement trigger (Timney or Jewel) a set of Talley low mounts and a classic old school Leupold 3X9. A couple of little additional touches will be a leather military style sling and a leather, Galco shell holder (maybe) just to keep it simple and old school.

I would like to remove the white spacers but don’t know how to remove the one from the fore end without ruining things. If anyone has a simple method please share but from what I can tell
It’s glued in place making it a “no go.”
 
I've had them Professionally stripped, then I did the sanding, as said. I like Tung Oil, thin coats, let dry 24hrs in between, light sand then another coat. I once did 7 coats on an old Walnut Bishop stock for a 1917 Enfield. It looked swell and sealed very well too.
 
I used Tru-Oil when I refinished our 1974 6mm Rem 700 BDL. Seven coats, rubbed in by hand worked out great.

Guy
 
Brinky72,
I wonder if you could use a fine tooth bow saw to carefully cut through the white spacers. Maybe start the cut with a dremal tool.

JD338
 
So far a slow go but, I have time. That finish is thicker than you think. I'm using a natural non toxic stripper so I'm sure that has something to do with it but if I get this done for deer season that will be fine. The wood is turning out to be pretty nice looking under all that crap.
 
Once you’ve done your final sanding, after dampening the wood, you need to fill the pores. Put a little linseed oil on the stock, take 800 grit paper and start making a slurry. Very slow process, makes a huge difference in the quality of the finish.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Midway has a you tube video, shows it better then I can explain it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
That’s what I’ve seen and plan to do. I’m carefully getting the varnish out of the checkering with a soft toothbrush at this point. I also plan on smoothing it over with oooo steel wool before the final hand rubbed coating.
 
JD338":3qrkuq5v said:
Brinky72,
I wonder if you could use a fine tooth bow saw to carefully cut through the white spacers. Maybe start the cut with a dremal tool.

JD338
I’m thinking I’ll carefully paint the forend and spacer to clean it up and just omit the ones on the butt plate and grip cap.
 
salmonchaser":1sbb9dlg said:
Midway has a you tube video, shows it better then I can explain it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It’s pretty cool how it works and you’d have to do it to see what happens. Once that first coat of linseed oil sets in and you start to sand it, it almost starts to “wax” up. I’m using 400 grit and I think any finer grit would plug up.
 
Well, an update. I finished it to the luster level I wanted. I’m pretty happy with how it turned out. The hand rubbed oil finish sure brought out some character and to me was totally worth the effort. It feels better in the hands like a real piece of wood. I topped it off with some Talley medium height mounts and a 3X9 80’s vintage Leupold. I have some rounds loaded that I need to try so I can figure out what it likes the best. I have mix of 130’s; power points, inter locks, BT’s and Hot Cors. And a couple 150’s; inter locks and partitions. The powder on hand is RL22, H4350, IMR 4350 and IMR4831. We’ll see what she likes in both weights and go from there. Likely some RL26 AKA “Fairy Dust” will be in its future as well. I’ll forward some quality pics to JD338 so he can post them for me. Not photo savvy on forums so it’ll be a minute

On a side note, I would like to dress it up a little with some metal wrist cap, butt plate and bottom metal. Something with a flamed, case hardened, whatever you want to call it look. Anyone know where I can find that stuff for a 700?
 
Beautiful rifle! The oil finish sure gives it a rich look to go with the rich history this rifle has.

JD338
 
Back
Top