Rifle bedding

[joelkdouglas]

I've read this before: "Bedding...when done properly...can in no way hurt the rifle."

What exactly does that mean, "when done properly"? It seems like it should be pretty easy--tape everything you don't want epoxy on, spray / apply release agent everything you don't want glued in, put in the epoxy, wait 6 - 8 hours, take out the action and metal, and let the epoxy cure for a couple days.

Is it more complicated than that? How could one "improperly" bed the rifle? Is there some way one could induce torque to hurt the rifle and groups?

Thanks gents.

 

[IdahoCTD]

Improper bedding is when you have uneven pressure from tightening the action screws too tight and creating stress or when you don't clearance part of the stock. That is why they make studs to take the place of actions screws for bedding.

 

[joelkdouglas]

Should I tighten the screws to 65 inch pounds as per the spec (synthetic stock) when I do the bedding? Or should it be less?

Any way to mitigate the second problem?

Thanks for the response.

 

[IdahoCTD]

I actually use the action screws when I bed a rifle and I go down snug then I back it off about 1/8 turn and let the rifle sit upside down to dry. Most people use the studs and some kind of tape or strap to hold the barreled action in the stock and let it dry upright.

 

[ScreaminEagle]

Should I tighten the screws to 65 inch pounds as per the spec (synthetic stock) when I do the bedding? Or should it be less?

Any way to mitigate the second problem?

Thanks for the response.

DO NOT TIGHTEN SCREWS when bedding a rifle!!! In fact don't even use them. Wrap electrical tape around the barrel enough so that it will be free floated. I leave enough material at the tang so that the action will touch only slightly at the very end. This will give you a 100% stress free bed. You can wrap some tape around the action if you must, but do not wrap it really tight.

 

[BeeTee]

I use the action screws (just snugged) and the floorplate during the bedding process. It helps to ensure that the action and recoil lug are aligned correctly with the vertical centerline. The action screws and any area of the receiver/floor plate that might come into contact with the bedding compound are protected with release agent, tape or modeling clay. I keep the rifle vertical during the insertion of the action into the stock and the several hours during the cure. This keeps any bending stress of a heavy free-floated barrel from affecting the bedding. Jim

 

[CAhunter]

I use the action screws (just snugged) and the floorplate during the bedding process. It helps to ensure that the action and recoil lug are aligned correctly with the vertical centerline.

Just curious how this ensures that your action and lug are vertically centered in your stock? Many stocks are mass produced and the holes drilled in them aren't always straight or spaced correct. Also have you ever checked to make sure your recoil lug is actually level to your action? I find that leveling the action in the stock and then checking the stock for clearance before bedding can help a lot.

 

[Oldtrader3]

I am not sure what bedded properly means either. I mostly skim bed or build barrel bands for a barrel channel bearing land. This is all more precise and I use bedding pretty sparingly. Usually my packs of bedding compound are used up pretty slowly. Not that this is anyone else's best solution but it works for me. It I bed the rear tang I do not stess it for curing, only barely bearing on the screw pressure to hold the action in place only.

 

[BeeTee]

I use the action screws (just snugged) and the floorplate during the bedding process. It helps to ensure that the action and recoil lug are aligned correctly with the vertical centerline.

Just curious how this ensures that your action and lug are vertically centered in your stock? Many stocks are mass produced and the holes drilled in them aren't always straight or spaced correct. Also have you ever checked to make sure your recoil lug is actually level to your action? I find that leveling the action in the stock and then checking the stock for clearance before bedding can help a lot.

There has to be some trust in the machine/computer-produced wooden stock that the manufacturers did it correctly. Even if they didn't do it perfectly, using the action screws and floorplate during the bedding process guarantees that the action, magazine, floorplate and action screws all go back together - easily. I like guarantees. When not using the floorplate and action screws, I think there's a chance - a possibility - that the action screws and floorplate won't be perfectly aligned with the machined/threaded holes in the action. There could be some degree of binding when the rifle goes back together.

I've thought about it, but I don't think it matters whether the recoil lug is 100% perfectly true and level to the action as long as the lug is bedded correctly. Besides, truing an action and recoil lug is not something a home hobbyist can easily do, which is hard to justify when using a wooden stock. Obviously, there are many opinions about most anything. I've never had a problem doing it my way, and it sounds like you're satisfied with yours. The end result is what's important.

 

[CAhunter]

BeeTee- I fully agree with you that most machining is done pretty well. I wasnt trying to disagree with you just trying to help. I would suggest going to the hardware store and getting some long bolts and just cut the head off. Use them as studs instead of your action screws. I usually drill out the action screw holes once the rifle is bedded anyway. The action screws should be free floated. You can use electrical tape to apply some slight pressure with it. I usually just use a basic bubble level on the top of the action or the bottom half of the ring to make sure its level. There is a lot of side to side play in most factory stocks and actions. This can cause the action to be sucked down slightly off center which you are right isnt that bad. I have seen it create problems before though such as trigger binding in its mortise, safety lever not functioning properly even barrel contacting the side of the stock in a certain spot. I guess in most cases it really doesnt matter and most bedding jobs come out fine. This may just be my OCD about things being perfect and square. Bedding a rifle is a personal preference and everyone has their own way just like chevy vs ford. Or taped recoil lug vs non taped lug???

 

[Titleist]

I would suggest going to the hardware store and getting some long bolts and just cut the head off. Use them as studs instead of your action screws. I usually drill out the action screw holes once the rifle is bedded anyway. The action screws should be free floated.

This is the way I bed most rifles. I grind a couple of flats on the sides (at the end) of each bolt after cutting the head off so that the bolts can be moved easily with a wrench. I have bedded quite a few rifles this way with very good results. However, it does not work (at least for me) on rifles with angled screws like Rugers.