Ruger Hawkeye Correct Angle Screw Torque Setting

[35R]

I was reading the other thread about the Ruger 77 model and did not wanted to hijack it asking about this. Therefore, I've decided to open a new one.

I own a newer Ruger Hawkeye chambered for .257 Roberts that I cannot get it to shoot groups better than 2.5-3' @ 100 yds. Out of the box and after about 150 rounds throught the pipe it shot .75-1" 3-shot groups using factory Hornady 117grs BTSP ammo. Determined to better that with my handloads I've embarked on an infinite quest for the ultimate load.
I started by free floating the barrel and bedding the area around the recoil lug. I was able to shoot the Nosler 110g AB to about a 1.5" (5 shots) using 43.5g of H4350. Thereafter, I was not happy with the trigger pull and came across a reduced power trigger spring and installed one. Put it back together and the nightmare begin.

I've bought a torque wrench with inch-pounds reading specifically for this gun and tried several torque combinations to no avail. My next course of action is to try kepp messing with it while shooting the same 117gr Hornady ammo until I see sub 1" groups again and then start my load development again using the AB.

I understand from the other thread there are a few of you that had have more experience with Rugers. I am willing to try anything on this puppy. Heck even getting a new stock if that what it takes. I really love shooting the Roberts but need to find an accurate load. I also know I am doing something wrong when putting it back together.

Can you help?

35R

 

[FOTIS]

30-35 INCH /LBS

 

[35R]

Thanks FOTIS,

For all 3 screws ?

I know I am supposse to tighten the angle screw first and then alternate the rear and middle.

35R

 

[FOTIS]

Front and rear. The center just snug......

 

[ROVERT]

30-35 INCH /LBS

I thought Ruger suggested something like 90 or 100 inch/lbs for the front (angled screw). I seem to remember that it was something significantly higher that what my Fat Wrench can go. I'll have to go back and double check.

Maybe I should try lighter since my .280 doesn't want to shoot consistently.

 

[Dr. Vette]

Ruger even has a video:
http://www.ruger.com/resources/videos.html
Click the one that says "Tech Tips" then choose the video you want.

Or, see page 20 of the manual for some direction:

http://ruger.com/products/_manuals/m77Hawkeye.pdf

Commonly posted specs:
95 in/lbs angle screw first
30-50 in/lbs trigger front then rear

 

[FOTIS]

Never heard of 95 fellas. All my rugers have been 35 snug 35

 

[Dr. Vette]

Never heard of 95 fellas. All my rugers have been 35 snug 35

Watch the video.
95 inch-pounds or 7.92 ft-lb for the front angled screw.

 

[FOTIS]

Oh! I am not doubting you. All I am saying that all mine were set as I stated before.....

 

[Silent Sam]

I have a lot of Rugers. This is what I do...The sequence and torques are:
1. The diagonal screw, torque to 50-90 inch-pounds.
2. The aft trigger guard screw, 30-50 inch pounds.
3. The forward trigger guard screw, also to 30-50 inch pounds.
The torque placed on the diagonal screw will have an effect on barrel harmonics by changing the upward pressure on the barrel at the raised area at the fore end tip in the barrel channel. This screw pulls the barreled action down and back against horizontal and vertical bedding surfaces. It also serves to position the magazine box and locate the hinge on the floor plate. This is why adjusting the diagonal screw often (not always) results in having to adjust the trigger guard screws to maintain operation of the latch.
If I have decided I need to do this to get a rifle to shoot or if I am removing the stock on a good shooting rifle, I record the torque values on a disassembly. On reassembly I adjust the diagonal screw torque from high to low in 5 in-lb increments. Just remember it's 50 in-lbs minimum and 90 in-lbs maximum on the diagonal screw; 30-50 on the trigger guard screws. Then just “balance” the torque on the trigger guard screws ensuring the magazine box is positioned correctly and that the floor plate latches and unlatches properly. Ruger generally uses the upper limits when assembling. But some experimenting may be helpful if you want to tweek the last little bit of accuracy out of the rifle.

 

[Oldtrader3]

I haven't owned a bunch of Model 77's, only three. One of them, the first, a 6mm Rem, needed about 50-60 inch pounds or more for the angled screw tightness. The other two rifles worked best at about 30-35 lbs.

 

[35R]

Thanks for the replies fellows,

I am aware of the video by Ruger and followed their instructions to the T. However, I'm still getting unacceptable groups with their settings. That is why I am asking what works for your particular rifle. It is obvious that this is going to take some time and a few trips to the range until I figure this out. I wonder if this is a good time to order that new HS-Precision stock that I've been drooling to get. I mean If I am going to go through all this trouble I might as well do it with the new stock, right?

Thanks Again,

35R

 

[Oldtrader3]

I bet that it makes a difference whether you are dealing with a walnut stock or a composite stock, I would think that the torque on the angled srew would be different. My Model 77's were all walnut stocked.

 

[35R]

I bet that it makes a difference whether you are dealing with a walnut stock or a composite stock, I would think that the torque on the angled srew would be different. My Model 77's were all walnut stocked.

My thoughts as well, That's why I am really considering the new stock before I put a lot of time and effort into this. The funny thing is that Ruger uses a composite stock in their video. Perhaps, I will take a quick trip to the range and try the 35-Snug-35 combo that FOTIS suggested above.

35R