Ruger Hawkeye M77 All Weather page 2

[truck driver]

I brought her home today and the Gun Smith at the shop were I had it sent said it looked brand new and asked what caliber it was. When I told him 338Wm he winced and said that it was going to kick some. I sort of smiled a little and thought we will see won't we.
Anyway when I got home the first thing I did was to clean the bore and the first patch was as black as coal. Why is no one cleans a rifle they are going to sell? It also has a good bit of copper fouling in it and after scrubbing with a nylon brush and wet patch with Bore Tech copper out I decided to let it soak for a while and maybe over night.
I mounted my spare scope on it a Vortex Diamond Back HP 3-12X42mm with side focus for the time being till I can save up for the one I want. Scotty has me thinking about one with a BDC reticule so I won't have to hold over at longer ranges the 338 Wm is capable of.
Here's some pictures with the scope mounted.

 

[DrMike]

Looks as if you are going to be quite pleased, Rodger. Your tests should be interesting. I am looking forward to your assessment of the rifle.

 

[SJB358]

Looks great to me. Ruger builds great rifles. 2nd favorite next to a M70. They sometimes require a little smoothing but they are super tough. Good triggers on the Hawkeyes as well.

 

[truck driver]

Thanks DrMike so far it's looking like a brand new rifle and the only marks I could find is where the Ruger rings clamp on the receiver from when the last owner had a scope mounted.
I finally got the copper fouling out by letting it soak over night.
Loaded a 225gr bullet into a piece of brass to see how much room I had to the lands. It seems every place I ordered bullets and dies from were sold out of 338 Hornady comparator bushings so I can't get a true measurement but it seems that the chamber is tight if my measurements was right it's 2.690" to the lands and that's 3.342" off the tip of a Hornady 225gr Sp that I got from MidWay.
I threw together some 225gr Sp with 65.0grs of H4350 and seated to what the old Hornady II manual recommended for length to sight in the scope. I want to keep the loads mild for a while since I really don't know what to expect from recoil with this rifle cartridge combination and is one of the reasons I picked 150 Speer 200gr Hot Cores from Graff's since they had them on sale and thought they would make good practice ammo and save the 225gr for latter once I get settled in with the rifle.
Running the loads I have handy threw a recoil calculator tells me I'm with a couple of pounds of what the 35 Whelen AI is producing that I have been shooting so I'm not expecting too much difference.
The factory stock is bedded with full barrel contact and was curious if floating the barrel in the polymer stock would help increase the accuracy.
Those here that own these rifles and still have the factory stocks on them what has your experience been with them.
I have read where some have filled the forearm with bedding epoxy to stiffen it so it doesn't flex and then float the barrel plus filled the hollow but stock with insulating foam so it doesn't sound like a drum when struck by a limb.
For a factory poly stock it doesn't look bad and would like to keep it but if I can improve the accuracy by getting it into a laminated stock or a Hogue with a full bedding block that is also an option and won't waste my time and money on the factory stock.

Thanks Scotty as far as the trigger it was replaced with a Timney by the previous owner and feels fairly good when I dry fired it and the action isn't rough as I expected either and it almost feels like a P64 except for the safety which is unique in that it blocks the firing pin when on full safe and something I've never seen before on other rifles.
My old tang safety is smooth as glass and a joy to shoot. I think Ruger knocked it out of the park when they up graded the design on the M77.

 

[Silent Sam]

I've got the same rifle. Mine is also closely chambered. It also has a pretty rough bore. A candidate for lapping that I haven't gotten around to yet. When new, groups opened up after three shots due to copper fouling and I don't shoot copper mono bullets. It's a bit better now but I still plan on lapping it. Plenty accurate when it's clean with all bullet weights from 180 to 250 grains. Ruger pads are to protect the stock, not the shooter. :shock: I put a Limbsaver on, but would have went with a Decelerator if there was one on the shelf. Either way it will keep you honest with your bench technique. I run a Leopold VX-3 2.5x10x40 w/ B&C reticle on mine. The one on the far right...

 

[truck driver]

I plan on changing the recoil pad with a Limb Saver or Pachmyer Decelerator.
Checked the screws and they were loose so I thought I'd take it down and wipe it off.
Well that stock was rubbing on the barrel so I decide to free it up some and floated the barrel so a business card will pass all around to 2" in front of frame.
I torqued the front screw to 45inlbs and tightened the trigger guard screws snug and then torque the rear screw to 45inlbs also.
Brownell has pillars for Rugers so it may get a set before it's over.

 

[35 Whelen]

Congrats Roger
That is the same model as my 35 Whelen. Hawkeye All Weather SS ???
Very nice outfit best of luck witb it.
E

 

[truck driver]

Congrats Roger
That is the same model as my 35 Whelen. Hawkeye All Weather SS ???
Very nice outfit best of luck witb it.
E

Thanks Earle if I run across one in 35 Whelen in the future I might be tempted to buy it if it has a 24" barrel on it.

 

[SJB358]

Sounds like a good one. I've never monkeyed around too much with bedding plastic stocks. I've done a couple and they are okay but if in doubt they will get a better one, either wood, laminate or glass.

I doubt you'll have much trouble getting it to shoot. Good Bullets and powder it likes will make it sing.

Also, ALL Winchesters, P64 to FN guns block the firing pin on the middle and full safe position. The Rugers work the same.

 

[Blkram]

A friend has an older Browning bolt action in 338 Win Mag and has loaded 200 gr Hot Cor in it for years. Mild load that works well on game from Deer to moose, without a lot of bloodshot meat.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[taylorce1]

Nice rifle, should work well on any game animal you can hunt with it. Keep your BDC reticle simple if you get one, I have two Nikon scopes with the same BDC reticle and they cover up too much of the target to be real precise at 100 yards. I have both Leupold LRD and the B&C reticle and they are much better than the Nikon's.

 

[Silent Sam]

I have a few Rugers :grin: and here is my process. It may not help you as much if you have completely floated the barrel. It's probably more critical with wood stocks than synthetic or laminate but it's what I do for all. I've never bedded a factory synthetic stock. I just make sure the bedding area has full contact and it's not binding anywhere. Good Luck and let us know how it shoots.

For Ruger MkII & Hawkeye Rifles
Ring Mounts:
The sequence and torques are:
1. Base screw, torque to 60 inch-pounds. I finger snug this screw and then loosen it back a bit to make sure the dovetail nut is seated in the receiver pocket prior to final torquing.
2. Cap screws, sequentially and incrementally torque to 20 inch-pounds. I never mix caps between bases. I always maintain the orientation of the cap to the base and usually put each screw back in the same hole it came out of.
Stock Screws:
The sequence and torques are:
1. The diagonal screw, torque to 50-90 inch-pounds. (If it is a flat tip screw replace it with an Allen or Star Head Bolt)
2. The aft trigger guard screw, 30-50 inch pounds.
3. The forward trigger guard screw, also to 30-50 inch pounds.
The torque placed on the diagonal screw will have an effect on barrel harmonics by changing the upward pressure on the barrel at the raised area at the fore end tip in the barrel channel. This screw pulls the barreled action down and back against horizontal and vertical bedding surfaces. It also serves to position the magazine box and locate the hinge on the floor plate. This is why adjusting the diagonal screw often (not always) results in having to adjust the trigger guard screws to maintain operation of the latch.
If I have decided I need to do this to get a rifle to shoot or if I am removing the stock on a good shooting rifle, I record the torque values on disassembly.
On reassembly I adjust the diagonal screw torque from high to low in 5 in-lb increments. Just remember it's 50 inlbs minimum and 90 in-lbs maximum on the diagonal screw; 30-50 on the trigger guard screws. Then just “balance” the torque on the trigger guard screws ensuring the magazine box is positioned correctly and that the floor plate latches and unlatches properly. Ruger generally uses the upper limits when assembling. But some experimenting may be helpful if you want to tweek the last little bit of accuracy out of the rifle.

 

[sask boy]

Rodger, I have heard lots of great things about the Ruger Hawkeyes. I am sure you will have it shooting sub moa. real soon.
I look forward to your range report along with more photographs .

Blessings,
Dan

 

[truck driver]

Silent Sam thanks for the information. I did torque the screws as you have mentioned and the first range day went very well. The action fits into the stock very snug as if it was glass bedded. The previous owner didn't pay attention to the screw tightness or there wouldn't have been rub marks of the barrel.
Since floating the barrel I may reinforce the forearm so it doesn't flex but for now it is fine. I will fill the butt with foam insulation and put a new pad on it.

 

[TackDriver284]

Found this on the site

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=22218

 

[Silent Sam]

Commented on that thread too... He never came back with what he figured out. I believe he ended up restocking it. He started out w/ .75"-1" groups with factory ammo, bedded the recoil lug (synthetic stock), floated the barrel, and worked on the trigger and had 2.5"-3" groups. He said he got it back to 1.5"s with AB's & H4350. Maybe his barrel would have done better with a pressure point and/or a load it really likes. I have a MKII UL in 257R (wood stock) and it grouped any factory ammo into open choke shotgun looking targets. It needed the bedding block area and the pressure point squared up to shoot well and it still doesn't like factory ammo. I plan on bedding the whole barrel channel on that rifle. Thanks for reminding me of another unfinished project... (actually it's the one on the far left in the pic I posted)

 

[jimbires]

Rodger , that's a nice looking rifle . I'm a sucker for stainless / synthetic . the factory stock on my 7 rem mag has a pressure point and it's not very ridgid . I have learned to shoot it off the bipod by not preloading the bipod . if I preload the bipod I can feel the stock pulling down away from the barrel . this will open up my groups tremendously . you'll just have to play around and learn what this rifle wants .

 

[truck driver]

Thanks for the info Jim. I completely floated the barrel on this stock after I found rub marks on the barrel due to the screws not being tightened properly as was a little miffed that the barreled action was moving in the stock. I fully believe a barrel needs to be free floated to achieve the best accuracy though there are some that will shoot better with some pressure. I did a test once with a 300 Bee with an after market stock where I slowly took out the pressure point and found as the pressure lessened the accuracy increased. The stock was a B&C Medalist and this rifle went from 1.5" shooter to a 1/2" shooter. If B&C made a stock for the M77 I would have already bought one for it since I do like their stock with the full bedding block.
I should have kept that rifle and put a recoil reducer in the butt stock but the recoil was effecting my eyes and felt it best to pass it on down the road.
If your 7 rem mag were mine I would restock it.

 

[jimbires]

Rodger , it's my wby ultralight , I think it has the B&C stock .

 

[35 Whelen]

Roger,
I have a Hogue Over mold aluminum Pilar bed that I can run
On any Ruger Hawkeye LA, and tryed it on three different guns. Without exception all three guns shot better in the Hogue.........my old 270 went from 1.4"/100 down to an inch, put it back in the factory stock right back to about 1.5", I never did figure out why except to was not the front
End of the stock it was apparently back in the receiver area and most likely could have been fixed by bedding the lug or whole action........ The Hogue feels better to me, has
A much nicer pistol grip, better recoil pad, and shoots better. There is no doubt factory plastic stocks are generally about as cheap as they can possibly make them, but are still perfectly adequate for general hunting....however they usually could use some work to get the best results........
JM2cw
E