Some Glock Parts and Accessories

CMBTshooter

Handloader
Jun 8, 2011
479
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I finally got around to improving some of the Glock 20's shortcomings. I wanted to make my Glock 20 into a fast and accurate combat pistol.

The first thing that had to go was the sights. Everyone knows that the factory Glock sights leave a lot to be desired. The plastic goal post and front dot really doesn't make any sense, especially since the front sight is supposed to be level with the rear and centered. This makes the front dot a big, white flat tire. Not the fastest design in my opinion, and I tend to shoot high when I'm going fast since I just pick up the dot.

I ordered the Maryland Gunworks rear sight pusher and the wheeler engineering front sight tool. The front sight tool is just about what you'd expect from a screwdriver bit. The MGW sight pusher is a heavy duty tool that is clearly built to be used over and over again, and it will since I have a bunch of Glocks. The tool fits into the cuts on the slide and clamps in. Then it's just a matter of turning and turning the tool until the old sight is removed. Installing the replacement slide is just as easy, just reverse the way you turn. I would highly recommend the sight tool.

I bought the Trijicon HD night sights. These sights are the typical 3-dot sights, but the front sight has a big, bright orange outline. The rear dots don't have an outline but you can still see them pretty easily. The orange dot is quick to pick up and follow during quick shots. Complementing the big orange dot in the front is the really wide rear sight notch. There is a lot of room on each side of the front sight post. I view this as a good thing in fast situations but it may not be the most accurate. These are some great sights but they aren't perfect. First, they are expensive, but they are pretty heavy duty and they are exactly what I want in combat sights. Second, they are pretty sharp. It doesn't bother me if it's in a hip holster, but inside the waist band might give you some uncomfortable scratches.

The second improvement I made was a Wolff guide rod and recoil spring. Full power 10mm loads wore out the factory spring so when the pistol was fired, there would be fire coming out of both ends of the barrel. I bought the coated stainless steel guide rod and the Wolff un-captured spring kit. I ended up not needing the kit, because the 22 pound spring functioned perfectly. I don't really see an advantage of a captured vs. un-captured recoil spring, but the extra power is necessary.

The last thing I did was add of some Taylor Freelance +0 speed wedges. These are 2.6 oz magazine base pads that are machined from brass bar stock. Now I don't know if the original idea was to get some extra pull to get the magazine to drop free of the pistol faster, or to add non-reciprocating mass to the pistol to reduce recoil. I think these do add some extra ability to control the pistol, but I can't be sure since I did add the heavy recoil spring at the same time.

Overall, I have a much faster and more controllable pistol even though it is now a little heavier than it was out of the factory.
 
I put truglo TFO on my glock 20s. I also went with extra power Wolfe spring, ghost connector, the 3.5 EVO kit. Those few additions will go a long way to sprucing up your glock. I also have a 6" lone wolf barrel on one and a 5.25" threaded barrel on another. I switched to cut barrels so I could run some 220gr cast loads thru them.


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I put the 6 inch lone wolf barrel on mine a few years ago and found that I hated the extra length. I had my brother cut 1.2 inches off the muzzle. It still sticks out a bit but it doesn't bother me as much as the six inch did.
 
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