Strange occurrence at range today

Big Norm":2v202sav said:
PROBLEM SOLVED! After receiving advice from others I bought a box of ammo and went back to the range for more shooting and opened my hard case, set up to shoot, attempted to adjust magnification and the whole damn scope turned on the rings and the Leupold rear mount with the clamp screws had come all the way loose, the front twist in ring was misaligned and NO loctite on any of the screws... SMDH!

Took me all of 30 mins to take it all apart and put it all back together properly! Shoot great!

Glad that you found your problem. I never trust Leupold bases and rings that someone else installed. I have had too many loose windage screws and loose or broken ring screws. Finally, after a lifetime of frustration and guessing, I bought a set of adjustable torque-set (Felo) screw drivers and a big bottle of pink nonhardening Loctite (222).
 
I am starting to feel the same way Oldtrader3.. I see a new base and ring set in my near future!

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Big Norm":1dmizwr1 said:
I am starting to feel the same way Oldtrader3.. I see a new base and ring set in my near future!

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Check out some Talley light weight one piece rings. They are strong and dependable with less parts to come loose.
 
I'll second the Talley lightweight suggestion. I own one set, and will own more.
 
Give the H4831 a try. It has been the most accurate powder for me and a number of people I know with the 7mm mag. The 7 mag also likes to run right at max loads also. For best accuracy do not full length size you cases. I just part size them with a FL die. I just size the case enough to very lightly bump the shoulder back.

I learned a long time ago to NEVER TRUST what someone says they have done to a firearm. I ALWAYS DOUBLE CHECK EVERYTHING. It has saved me a lot of time wasted and trouble.
 
I have never seen any LGS install a scope the way I'd do it! But they're doing that work just to get you "going" ? Where I don't know, other then out the door! lol Read my article on "Mounting a scope for accurate long range work".

www.noslerreloading.com/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=24548

But Yes you will need some type of thread locker or Loctite on the screws are they will someday come undone during recoil.
 
+1 on the Talley Lightweight. If I don't have a picatinny rail with tacticle rings I use the Talley when possible.
 
I use a Picatinny mount or rail with TPS low (44mm) or Medium (50mm) rings. They are very strong and have quality screws that can be torqued to proper levels and never break.
 
I have Talley's on most of my rifles, and they have served me well.
 
Think I got it all worked out... 63gr imr 4350 nosler bt... 5 shots total.. that one danged flier and 4 holes touching... .510

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Big Norm, I have used 63 grs of IMR 4350 and 150 grain bullets for years and I always got really good groups with it. Good groups BTW, we all have flyers when we get to be our age!
 
Thanks guys! Oldtrader3 my load for the 150's seems to be about 62grns, I will have to load some more once I get to the LGS to pick up a few... I have tons of 140's because of the over run price at SPS.

I do have a question though, the brass I am shooting was factory new brass from factory ammo. Upon firing first time and forming brass to my chamber I read a lot of people say you should neck size brass after it is fire formed to your chamber. I did this but The Brass was hard to extract after firing the reload is this common?

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Likely, you need to set your shoulder back a couple of thousandths. Also, check your case length to ensure that you are not getting the neck sticking into the throat.
 
All brass trimmed to length, but the entire case shows signs of abrasion as if it is being pulled through steel wool..

It didnt happen when I full length sized the brass but when I only neck sized the brass is when it happened
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Sure sounds like a rough chamber. You might want to have a gunsmith dress the chamber to clean it up.
 
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