Hey guys! A buddy of mine has been loading for his 30-06 using hornady brass. He just bought some Lapua brass and I know the general rule is to lower your load and then work up. Do we need to start over or just load what he already has found to work. Currently shooting 50.0 gr of IMR 4064 with 168TTSX. Does brass make that much of a difference in accuracy? Thanks
Switching brass
- Thread starter CAhunter
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DrMike
Ballistician
- Nov 8, 2006
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Always a good practise to reduce loads by about 5% and work up to ensure safety. Brass can make a difference in accuracy, but the greater difference will be brass life and ductility.
bullet
Handloader
- Dec 26, 2007
- 4,973
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Brass makes a difference. I can reach pressures quicker using brass from one company as opposed to another. Case in point when using Winchester brass and Nosler custom brass using same powder, primers, bullet and OAL. I would reach max with the Nosler brass before I did with the Winchester brass. It does make a difference and in accuracy also. I changed brass on one load and reduced my group by .5", brass does make a difference. Always work up to a load whether you change brass, bullet, primers and certainly if changing powder.
bullet
Handloader
- Dec 26, 2007
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Tell you friend if he changes any of the components to back off a little and work up. Period
Richracer1
Handloader
- May 12, 2005
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bullet":1ximhs23 said:
I agree......
- Nov 4, 2004
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Any time you change ANY component, ALWAYS drop down the charge weight and work up.
Every manufacture of brass has different internal case capacity and this directly relates to pressure. A safe load in brand x brass may be a dangerous load in another.
You can always load up 1-2 shells as proof loads and quickly get to where you want to be for fine tuning.
Play it safe and be happy.
JD338
Every manufacture of brass has different internal case capacity and this directly relates to pressure. A safe load in brand x brass may be a dangerous load in another.
You can always load up 1-2 shells as proof loads and quickly get to where you want to be for fine tuning.
Play it safe and be happy.
JD338
Antelope_Sniper
Handloader
- Jan 25, 2008
- 2,618
- 0
With a .270 Winchester, which I know you are loading for, on a max load, if you switch from Winchester to Remingtion brass, you need to back off a full grain...if not, you may have a blown or punctured primer. Yes, I learned this the hard way. In addition, when loading virgin brass, it's best to back off another full grain.
Primers don't make a difference? :lol: :lol: :lol:
If I switch from CCI 200 primers to WMRP primer in my .270 Win, with a 130gr BT the point of impact moves up a full foot at 100 yards. That tells me there are some differences in the chamber. I don't have the sophisticated equipment to measure it, but something is different. If all primers were equal, there wouldn't be so many different ones.
Remmy's having pressure issues and he didn't even change anything. All he did was buy a new can of powder. :?
So imagine the guy the with cavalier attutude that oh, none of this matters. He switches from Winchester to Remington or Lapua brass, goes from CCI 200 to Fed215 for WMRP primers, oh and buys a new can of powder. That first round could be a real eye opener. :shock:
So if it was my friend, and he was anywhere close to max, I'd tell him to drop back and work up again.
Primers don't make a difference? :lol: :lol: :lol:
If I switch from CCI 200 primers to WMRP primer in my .270 Win, with a 130gr BT the point of impact moves up a full foot at 100 yards. That tells me there are some differences in the chamber. I don't have the sophisticated equipment to measure it, but something is different. If all primers were equal, there wouldn't be so many different ones.
Remmy's having pressure issues and he didn't even change anything. All he did was buy a new can of powder. :?
So imagine the guy the with cavalier attutude that oh, none of this matters. He switches from Winchester to Remington or Lapua brass, goes from CCI 200 to Fed215 for WMRP primers, oh and buys a new can of powder. That first round could be a real eye opener. :shock:
So if it was my friend, and he was anywhere close to max, I'd tell him to drop back and work up again.
- Nov 4, 2004
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Flattened primers, either factory loads or hand loads, don't necessarily mean high pressure, it could be the chambering in YOUR rifle. Compressed loads do not mean high pressure loads, it has everything to do with powder burn rates. Split necks are also not a sign of high pressure.
Yes, all manufactures worry about liability and they do so because of people that do not follow common sense loading practices. A tight chamber vs a loose chamber will also play a part in the equation, one the is overlooked by some.
JD338
Yes, all manufactures worry about liability and they do so because of people that do not follow common sense loading practices. A tight chamber vs a loose chamber will also play a part in the equation, one the is overlooked by some.
JD338
Desert Fox
Handloader
- Aug 14, 2006
- 1,965
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That's alright buddy. The whole country is experiencing the same thing you do. We can do something about it you know. Let's start with your state by throwing your Governor out this up coming election. How is that? :grin:
Antelope_Sniper
Handloader
- Jan 25, 2008
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I'm a third generation reloader with over 35 years of loading experience. I think some of my dad's old Herter's dies might still have teething marks on them. I've filled one 3" binder with cronograph data, and I have a good start on my second binder. I've actually wore out one chronograph, and need a new one.
When it comes to loading, I'm not your father-in-law. I usually load up to max...or there abouts...and if I know why my combination of componets will be safe above the listed max charge, i.e. I have data that shows the components I'm substituting will reduce, pressures, I may go above the published max, especially if my groups still shrinking. But If I don't have the experience with those specific components, I back off, work back up, and chronograph, and collect data, so I can form a better opinion for the future. In the end, if you back off and work up, what have you lost? A few bullets, a little powder. And what have you gained? Data, experience, and the knowledge that you, or in this case your friends, are safe.
When it comes to loading, I'm not your father-in-law. I usually load up to max...or there abouts...and if I know why my combination of componets will be safe above the listed max charge, i.e. I have data that shows the components I'm substituting will reduce, pressures, I may go above the published max, especially if my groups still shrinking. But If I don't have the experience with those specific components, I back off, work back up, and chronograph, and collect data, so I can form a better opinion for the future. In the end, if you back off and work up, what have you lost? A few bullets, a little powder. And what have you gained? Data, experience, and the knowledge that you, or in this case your friends, are safe.
Page 40 of our loading manual provides the following:
The loading data developed at Nosler for this Guide was tested in rifles and handguns of excellent mechanical condition. However, many factors, such as temperature, primer type or case volume, can increase pressure factors in any given load. For that reason, we urge you to approach carefully any load listed as maximum in our data tables. Start at least 5% below the charge listed as maximum and work upward in small increments, watching carefully for indications of excessive pressure. Once these indications, (High Pressure Signals), become apparent, go back to the previous charge and use that data as the maximum criteria for your rifle. It is important to remember that, at this pressure range, even slight charge variations in certain powders have a significant effect on pressure, and each charge should be measured carefully.
Page 28:
Basic Reloading precautions--
#4 Understand what you are doing and why it must be done in a specific way.
Pressure curves are not linear. A small change in one component can lead to a very large change in pressure. Add up a couple small changes and you can have a very dangerous situation. ALWAYS back off on your powder charge when you change a component, especially if you are anywhere near max. There are too many factors involved to safely assume everything will be ok.
If you are ever in doubt, please call our tech support line. 1-800-285-3701 ext 1046.
The loading data developed at Nosler for this Guide was tested in rifles and handguns of excellent mechanical condition. However, many factors, such as temperature, primer type or case volume, can increase pressure factors in any given load. For that reason, we urge you to approach carefully any load listed as maximum in our data tables. Start at least 5% below the charge listed as maximum and work upward in small increments, watching carefully for indications of excessive pressure. Once these indications, (High Pressure Signals), become apparent, go back to the previous charge and use that data as the maximum criteria for your rifle. It is important to remember that, at this pressure range, even slight charge variations in certain powders have a significant effect on pressure, and each charge should be measured carefully.
Page 28:
Basic Reloading precautions--
#4 Understand what you are doing and why it must be done in a specific way.
Pressure curves are not linear. A small change in one component can lead to a very large change in pressure. Add up a couple small changes and you can have a very dangerous situation. ALWAYS back off on your powder charge when you change a component, especially if you are anywhere near max. There are too many factors involved to safely assume everything will be ok.
If you are ever in doubt, please call our tech support line. 1-800-285-3701 ext 1046.
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- #12
Hey guys! Thanks for the replies. I was just making sure I was doing the correct thing in backing down by at least a grain. The load we had was kinda hot so I might even go 1 1/2 gr. I would never just load something the same when changing componets and shoot it. I have weighed some lapua cases and they are about 17gr heavier than hornady. That led me to think I need to reduce and work back up! THANKS GUYS!
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