That stupid glue...

tddeangelo

Handloader
May 18, 2011
2,024
21
OK, what are some ideas on how to remove that stupid hot glue that FN puts on the MOA trigger adjustment screws????

I'd like to "chat" with the lawyer who decided that was a good idea...
 
Take a cotton swab and soak it in 70% Isopropyl alcohol and then apply the alcohol to the cured hot melt. The alcohol should soften and break the hot melt right off the screw surface.
 
I got it out of mine...but honestly don't remember it being a big problem...I think I picked it out with a small pick.
 
On both of mine I heated a small flat screwdriver over a hobby-type butane torch or cigarette lighter a little at a time and scraped it off. It takes a little time but it worked. With the small tools and amounts of heat involved I didn't have to worry about any thermal stress issues in the components either. Although, Charlie's method with alcohol sounds like it's worth trying as well. Might have to go buy another M70 to try it out...

Make sure to get the hex sockets in the screw heads good and clean and you'll be fine. The MOA trigger is not quite as elegant as the old trigger, but it's still a good one.
 
I was doing just that...heating a screw driver and working at. I have it down to the filled in hex heads, but they are challenging to clear out. Charlie, I will have to try the alcohol....hopefully that will work. This crap is miserable to get out.

I really miss the old trigger... I like the feel of the MOA trigger (wish they'd serrate the trigger surface, though), but I sure miss the old, reliable, simple M70 trigger.
 
I will, Charlie. I'm actually gonna be working on it in a few minutes here, and we'll see what happens.

I have 20 rds of 120gr Rem PSP CoreLokts loaded to just get the thing on paper and settle it in some. I loaded them on 61.6gr (moderate charge) of H4831sc.....mostly because I am not using that powder for anything right now, so I don't mind using some.

Then I have 15rds of 140gr ABs on a range of charges of RL25 to see what the rifle will do.

With any luck, I'll get to the range tomorrow evening or Saturday AM.
 
Well, alcohol did help a little, but I wound up back at it with a heated screw driver. The alcohol got rid of enough off the top that I could get the "plug" worked out enough. The trigger is no match trigger, but it's far better now. Maybe some day I'll replace the spring to pull it down a little, but for now it's suitable for the range.
 
Guys,
Wish I could've chipped in earlier, but my method worked pretty well for getting out the glue on my daughter's FN super grade trigger. Try a can of brake cleaner. I didn't know how I'd get to the screw thread after I cut through all the glue, so I sprayed it with brake cleaner and it took it right out.
Joe
 
Why did they replace the best rifle trigger ever made in the Model 70? It has be some Belgium, engineering-freak, ego-monster who thinks he can do better!
 
Oldtrader3":1vobnnin said:
Why did they replace the best rifle trigger ever made in the Model 70? It has be some Belgium, engineering-freak, ego-monster who thinks he can do better!

I agree Charlie. The original Model 70 trigger is about as rugged and tune able as it gets. Slim chance of it failing due to ice or dirt being open designed and all of mine can or have been honed with excellent pull. The MOA is nice, but I still don't think it tops my trigger on the Alaskan
 
I have owned about (30) Model 70's and have never had a trigger that I could not tune or repair easily. I have not owned one of the new Model 70's and except for the trigger, I really like the quality and wood that they are using in the new models, plus, I hear he new rifles are generally very accurate. I am sure that I will buy one of the ne ones when I see one that I cannot live without.
 
Back
Top