Tips on the right tools for bedding a rifle

[dubyam]

I posted this on another forum, but only got one response. It was valuable, for sure, but I'm hoping for additional input from the gang here at Nosler.

I'm bored. I'm not working, aside from some consulting work, which does not take up my whole day. I've cleaned up a ton of stuff, gotten all the "honey-do" projects I want to do, done (not all the projects, just all the ones I want to do, just to be clear), and I'm thinking it's time to tackle something new and interesting. I'd like to pillar and glass bed one of my rifles. Maybe two, but starting with one.

I don't have a beater rifle on which to test my skills, so I need to do this right the first time. I've read a ton on the subject, and I believe I can accomplish it, as I'm reasonably handy. Seems like the things to remember are:

Take your time.
Tape over everything on the stock.
Release agent is your friend.
Don't get in a hurry.
Take your time.

Now, that said, I'm thinking about using Ernie the Gunsmith's method with pillars and glassing the pillars in first, then bedding the action onto the pillars. Obviously, a drill press and the right bits are paramount. I do have a question, though. My dremel bit the dust a while back and I've not replaced it. Can I remove material from the stock by hand, and if so, what tools are recommended? I already have a dowel and some sandpaper for the barrel channel, but for the action area, what is the best choice for non-dremel removal of material after initially glassing the pillars in place?

And are there any other tips y'all would advise I fully understand before jumping off into this sort of project?

 

[rick smith]

Hammer and chisel to remove wood around the recoil lug or a drill motor with a rasp, got them at Ace Hardware. Two coats of release agent every where the glass will touch and three coats where you are sure no glass will go. Blue painters tape or masking tape. Remove the trigger and scope. Fill all screws holes with paste wax or clay to include the action screws. Make sure you coat the action screws with release agent. I have used a variety of release agents and now use spray mold release from Brownells, easy to apply and clean after the job is complete. Rick.

 

[truck driver]

Dubyam I have several different sets of wood carving chisels I use and the key is to keep them razor sharp. A light leather or plastic mallet helps with some things but it's best to use hand pressure and shaving off wood plus it keeps you from splitting out pieces.

 

[Dr. Vette]

For drilling the hole, using the piloted boring drill bit from ScoreHi is the cat's meow, and doesn't require use of a drill press, though it surely helps:
http://www.scorehi.com/

I havec used Devcon many times, but recently purchased some of Charlie's bedding material (from ScoreHi) to try.

If you don't have a Dremel, I also use a collection of files, and use a small kit of hobbyist's woodworking tools made by X-Acto. I suspect you could get a similar set from a hobby store.

 

[muleman]

Dubyam,
What rifle and model are you considering bedding?
I second the recommendation of Score High Pillars - they are adjustable and real easy to use. Piloted drill bits are your friend. If your doing a Rem 700 it's a piece of cake except for the bottom metal mold marks - a little sanding takes them down. It's really important to keep an eye out for anything that might cause the action to lock itself into the epoxy. Release agent/wax, tape and modeling clay are cheap. I taught myself using all the videos on Youtube and Midway etc. and my gunsmith says they look good. You can use a very sharp hand chisel to remove the wood; I like to use just hand pressure but a Dremel is the cat's meow. I like doing the pillars first then the action.
If you have any questions please feel free to PM me.

Good luck,
Scott

 

[Oldtrader3]

Dub, I use a stock scraper to straighten and open up barrel channels. You can buy a decent one in 9/16, 5/8, 11/16, 3/4 whatever diameter for about $16. Saves a lot of time and makes a planed straight cut.

 

[elkeater2]

Dubyam,
I kind of settled on a combination of Ernie's and Richard Franklin's methodology: http://www.accurateshooter.com/technica ... r-bedding/ There's a link if you have not seen it before. I found it useful. Tape everything, not just where you think it might overflow or dribble. I laugh at some who insist on Kiwi neutral for a release agent - neutral 'cuz why? Isn't it all going to get cleaned off. I use brown since I have it already :grin: Shortcuts are not good. Absolute support for the stock and action is essential. Good luck and WDE!!
EE2

 

[Rol_P]

In preparation for my first attempt at bedding I built a stock vise out of two antique wood screw clamps and some 2x6 material. I screwed one side of the clamp to the 2x6 and covered the clamp wood with cork that I got from a hobby shop.. I will attempt to attach a photo. Good luck my project has been delayed.

 

[Rol_P]

What does not show in the photo is the hole cut in the base 2x6 for the butt of the stock to go into.. I also used short pieces of foam pipe insulation to cover the clamp screws.

 

[FOTIS]

Youtube is your friend

 

[Ridgerunner665]

Youtube is your friend

Yes...very much so....I bedded my first rifle last year and found everything I need there....though most of the videos are of Remington 700 type actions, they will point you in the right direction.

Mine is a Winchester model 70...the square actions are not quite as simple and easy to get centered and at the proper height...not terribly difficult, just a little more attention to detail required.

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk

 

[ScreaminEagle]

Everyone pretty much touched on all the good points, but I'll add my .02. I use silly putty instead of modeling clay, as it cleans up easier. I use Devcon steel putty, as it is easy to work with. Have wd-40 and lots of q-tips available for clean up. When you are sure that you have covered everything in release agent, starts over and apply some more.

 

[woods]

A Dremel tool is excellent for removing small amounts of wood or composite. I like the Acraglas because of the little mixing cups and the compound itself is MADE for bedding stocks. But I like the Birchwood Casey stock wax for a release agent. It is thicker and easier to see where you have applied it (also MADE for guns)

The Acraglas kit comes with brown and black dyes which is a plus IMO

 

[dubyam]

Thanks for the replies, guys. I'm considering two rifles, but will start with my Rem673 Guide Gun. It's shooting hard right of point of aim, and I'm pretty sure the culprit is barrel channel pressure. Most folks I've spoken with or read posts, who have these same rifles, have found relief in bedding and floating, so that's the route I'm going to take, I think. I'll be amassing the materials needed over the next couple of weeks. I have a cradle, some chisels, and a handful of other things (thank heavens for Pinewood Derby from my son's Cub Scout days!) but will need a few other things, and whatever bedding compound I end up using. I like Ernie's method as it appears to be nearly foolproof in terms of zero torque in the action bedding when the bolts are tightened. I'll likely try to do it in two steps as he does. Plus, I think that offers me the least chance of totally ruining the stock, which is an unusual stock with the wide bicolor laminate design. I might try to bed my 8x57 Rem700 Classic first, as that stock is far easier to replace should I just butcher it.

I have an interview next Tuesday, so if that goes well, this project may get shelved until I'm caught up with the new position, but that'd be a good problem to have. Regardless, I'll be attempting this in the not too distant future. Thanks again for the input.

 

[FOTIS]

Always remove optics before bedding.

 

[muleman]

I just bought a barrel channel scraper. I wish I'd done this a long time ago. It has much better control and removes material from the channel better than a dowel and sand paper does. It won't round edges unless you want to.

Scott

 

[Dr. Vette]

I just bought a barrel channel scraper. I wish I'd done this a long time ago. It has much better control and removes material from the channel better than a dowel and sand paper does. It won't round edges unless you want to.

Scott

Which one did you buy?

 

[muleman]

I purchased this one along with replacement cutters for two other sizes.
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools ... d6796.aspx
The two handles give you a lot of control.
Scott

 

[Rol_P]

For free floating a barrel if only a little material needs to be removed I found this to be a simple way. Take a dollar bill and slide it between the barrel and forend to see where the contact is. Next remove the barrel and action from the stock and place masking tape or painter's tape along the barrel surface. Then replace the barrel and action in the stock but only partially tighten the action screws.
You need enough space between the barrel and the forend to slide a piece of fine or medium sand paper in there with abrasive side toward the forend. Work the sand paper back and forth to remove unwanted wood. Slowly tighten the action screws a little and keep working the sand paper until you have no resistance on the sand paper when the action screws are at full torque. The wood will have to be re-sealed to keep it from taking on moisture.

Fortunately I have never needed a barrel channel scraper.

 

[SJB358]

Great thread, I echo removing any optics before the job. I learned the hard way on that one! Ha.

Good luck Dub, I use Ernie's method of pillars first then bedding the rest of the rifle. I'm betting you won't be disappointed when your done with that 673.