Tips on the right tools for bedding a rifle

[woods]

I'm curious as to why you should remove optics before bedding

 

[SJB358]

I'm curious as to why you should remove optics before bedding

I just had a few drops of bedding fall on the scope I didn't see till it was hard, so mechanically, it doesn't change much, but it makes for easier clean up. I run PRW/QRW on most rifles, so it really should have been a no brainer, unfortunately, I was the no brainer that day.

 

[woods]

I'm curious as to why you should remove optics before bedding

I just had a few drops of bedding fall on the scope I didn't see till it was hard, so mechanically, it doesn't change much, but it makes for easier clean up. I run PRW/QRW on most rifles, so it really should have been a no brainer, unfortunately, I was the no brainer that day.

The action/barrel/scope is separate from the stock when gobbing in the bedding compound. Then the action/barrel/scope is carefully put down into the wet bedding compound and action screws inserted. I just don't see how wet bedding compound would get on the scope unless it was carelessly left near the stock and not put in a towel, wrapped up and put aside.

Now you could get some release agent on the scope but that won't hurt.

To me there could be more harm done by removing the scope with all the previously carefully torqued in ring screws. Not to mention the loss of zero. And yes you will need to check for zero after bedding even though it should stay very close to the same.

Just curious why you would take that extra step

 

[SJB358]

I'm curious as to why you should remove optics before bedding

I just had a few drops of bedding fall on the scope I didn't see till it was hard, so mechanically, it doesn't change much, but it makes for easier clean up. I run PRW/QRW on most rifles, so it really should have been a no brainer, unfortunately, I was the no brainer that day.

The action/barrel/scope is separate from the stock when gobbing in the bedding compound. Then the action/barrel/scope is carefully put down into the wet bedding compound and action screws inserted. I just don't see how wet bedding compound would get on the scope unless it was carelessly left near the stock and not put in a towel, wrapped up and put aside.

Now you could get some release agent on the scope but that won't hurt.

To me there could be more harm done by removing the scope with all the previously carefully torqued in ring screws. Not to mention the loss of zero. And yes you will need to check for zero after bedding even though it should stay very close to the same.

Just curious why you would take that extra step

I was wearing latex gloves, and got a little bedding material on my paws and didn't realize it, touched the scope when I was setting the action back in the stock. Since I run quick release rings most of the time, pulling my scopes off isn't a hard problem. They return to zero just about perfect if not perfect. If you have another method of mounting scopes I guess it's a choice you have to make. For me, I'll pull the scope, it's two levers and done.

 

[muleman]

The danger in not removing the scope is that Murphy's law will intervene. When cleaning the overflow off you can accidentally touch the scope or a drop of compound can end up on a unprotected portion of the scope. It's not a big deal if you catch it while wet - just wipe it off with a little vinegar. I've found that rifles need to be zeroed after bedding so removing the scope shouldn't cause any additional work compared to the risk of marring a nice scope. Another thing to consider is making sure that you don't push compound through the action screw holes into the action. This won't happen when you pillar bed but can happen when bedding the action. I use inletting through screws to keep the alignment true and set the action with surgical tubing till the epoxy sets.

Scott

 

[Dr. Vette]

For free floating a barrel if only a little material needs to be removed I found this to be a simple way. Take a dollar bill and slide it between the barrel and forend to see where the contact is. Next remove the barrel and action from the stock and place masking tape or painter's tape along the barrel surface. Then replace the barrel and action in the stock but only partially tighten the action screws.
You need enough space between the barrel and the forend to slide a piece of fine or medium sand paper in there with abrasive side toward the forend. Work the sand paper back and forth to remove unwanted wood. Slowly tighten the action screws a little and keep working the sand paper until you have no resistance on the sand paper when the action screws are at full torque. The wood will have to be re-sealed to keep it from taking on moisture.

Fortunately I have never needed a barrel channel scraper.

I've also heard of this method, and actually plan to use it soon and see how it goes.

Any additional tricks to it?



Hey - my 500th post. :mrgreen:

 

[DrMike]

Hey - my 500th post. :mrgreen:

Congratulations. :grin:

 

[Dr. Vette]

Hey - my 500th post. :mrgreen:

Congratulations. :grin:

Over 21000? Wow.

 

[truck driver]

When I float a barrel that only needs the high points relieved I take masking tap and run it down the top of the stock with the barreled action still in place. Then I run a dollar bill under the barrel till I reach the tight spots which I mark on the tape. I then remove the barreled action and sand the barrel channel using a dowel rod until I have clearance and the barrel is floated this protects the finish and allows me to remove material only where it is needed.

 

[Dr. Vette]

When I float a barrel that only needs the high points relieved I take masking tap and run it down the top of the stock with the barreled action still in place. Then I run a dollar bill under the barrel till I reach the tight spots which I mark on the tape. I then remove the barreled action and sand the barrel channel using a dowel rod until I have clearance and the barrel is floated this protects the finish and allows me to remove material only where it is needed.

I've done it this way too, and a deep well socket also works.

However, some have not turned out quite as nice as I'd hoped. Too long of section often ends up wide, as the dowel or socket has length X and still has to be able to move. And, there are a limited selection of diameters for both dowels and sockets.

The thought of using the sandpaper as described earlier to help the barrel (especially) match the channel is quite intriguing.

 

[Oldtrader3]

All of my scopes are mounted in rings which are easily enough removed from the scope bases and usually even hold zero pretty well when remounted. I would rather isolate scopes from circumstances where they may be scratched and/or be coated with epoxy accidentally.

 

[HOGWILD338-378]

Charly at Score-Hi has a free step by step video on his website for download that I am sure would help! He is a local Smith that shoots Competition and I use him for scope installs check him out! Left side of page at the bottom click on downloads !! :mrgreen:

http://www.scorehi.com