Trapping rifle

[bbearhntr]

My 8 year old son and I are going to start trapping this fall. We will be focused on coon, fox and coyote. Does anyone have any recommendations for a trapping rifle? I think this might be the perfect excuse for a new lever action :grin:

 

[gerry]

There are many different guns you could get maybe a Browning BLR in 223 Rem or go old school with a Marlin lever gun in 218 Bee, 25-20, 32-20 or a Winchester 94 in 25-35. A lever gun in 357 Magnum with a hard bullet might fit the bill too.

 

[Ridgerunner665]

I always used a 22, started with a single shot Winchester (my first rifle) then later moved on to Remington 552 Speedmaster, the only Remington I still own... Its a fairly old rifle given to me by an uncle when the Winchester got stolen (he also gave me the Winchester), probably bought new in the 50's or 60's if I had to guess.

 

[Anonymous]

My trapping gun is a stainless Ruger Bearcat.

If I had to go with a long gun...one do those carbine Marlins in .357/38 would be tough to beat.

 

[wisconsinteacher]

single shot .22 that you don't mind getting dirty or beat up.

 

[YoteSmoker]

Buckmark or any of the Ruger 22s. A Single Six would be nice.

 

[Polaris]

I assume you are looking for a rifle to finish critters without damaging pelts significantly. A .22 is the only way to go. Handguns are handy, but difficult to get the precision needed to brain a coyote tangled in a thicket by the drag. Rifle is also handy for the occasional target of opportunity you will run across on the trapline (grouse, pheasant, squirrel, rabbit or furbearer in the open).

I would go with a bolt action. Much safer than other types when digging, chopping, paddling, or all the other forms of manual labor involved in trapping. I keep the bolt safety locked while doing work. I would go with any clip fed used model you'll find at a gunshow if you can find one for a reasonable price. Tube magazines are trouble as they are easily damaged on the newer guns with the rigors of the trapline. On the older guns, the magazine tube is made of heavier steel and is generally less prone to damage. Don't buy a total beater though. This rifle will get a lot of service and you want it to be accurate and reliable, just not fancy or expensive. Will also make for some good marksmanship practice for junior ventilating the odd beer can along the way. I would avoid a lever gun as there are more loops and hammers to get hung up on cattatils, sticks, wires, stakes, etc. If price is not a concern, buy a basic CZ 452 and cherish it no matter how beat up it gets. It will give you a lifetime of fine service. If you can find one, the Norinco JW 15 sporter is essentially the same gun, just less refined and less expensive. I have 2 and love them dearly. Very well built guns, not typical of other '90s Norinco production.

For ammo, I use subsonic rem Thunderbolt or Aguila (heavier bullet, not CBEE) for finishing shots. I typically travel with a HV hollow point in the chamber for longer shots at random critters. Just have to remember to eject to subsonic before finishing a red fox or it makes a mess of a fine pelt.

 

[Polaris]

http://www.jgsales.com/zastava-cz99-bol ... 62934.html

Based on reviews and the basic design (haven't handled one of these yet) I would give this rifle a very strong vote.

 

[preacher]

A model 94/22 magnum with 40gr FMJs is your huckleberry. Put some sling swivel studs on it, get an Uncle Mikes detachable nylon Mountain sling and get ready to be amazed, ha. We used one ( it was my brother in laws) set up that way and it was accurate enough for close in head shots on small game, powerful enough for coyotes at 125 easily. A Ruger Single Six convertible simply "must" be on his hip all the time too! Sounds like you guys are having a ball! Making good memories for sure.
PS My gunsmith does not like the Henry 22 leverguns, not sure why though.

 

[bbearhntr]

Thanks for all of your input fellas and keep it coming. I've been told its hard to beat a .22 short for trapping. I also know someone who says the .17 hmr is hands down the best caliber for saving fur as it usually doesn't exit and the entrance hole is smaller. I am totally new to this game but my boy is completely obsessed. He made his first "catch" a few days ago...

 

[Thankful Otter]

bbearhntr

I am happy to hear that your son is interested in trapping. I have been doing it all my life and is one of the reasons I have been looked down upon from some quarters.

You should not need a gun. If done correctly the wolf and wolverine should already be dead, but if not we use the rifle we are carrying. Smaller animals like the Martin, we simply hit in the head if necessary. We use a snare on the lynx and they expire quickly. Over the years we have trapped wolf, wolverine, mink, beaver, fisher, lynx, muskrat, weasel, otter, martin, coyote, and fox ( both breeds )

we do not need a trapping license if we are using the meat and pelts, but we do need one if we plan to sell the pelts outside the first nation community

However, for that young man I believes he needs a nice new 22 rifle and congrats again to the young man

 

[bbearhntr]

Thanks for your perspective yukon huntress. I wish we had an opportunity to trap half of that cool stuff you have up north. In Wisconsin we are really limited in our methods and animals available. I hope to draw a bobcat tag in 7 years. Fisher is sometimes every year or two (limit 1). Snares are not legal and any connibear larger than a 160 can only be used if submerged in water. I've been watching a few utube videos about trapping in NWT. Really neat stuff up there.

 

[FOTIS]

Here is mine!

Classic Marlin 32-20 Win

 

[bbearhntr]

Very cool rifle Fotis!

 

[FOTIS]

Thank you This will work too
Marlin 39A 22 S L LR

 

[Anonymous]

In Wisconsin we are really limited in our methods and animals available.

Great catch for the kid!

Sounds like you are dry land trapping- if you are limited to leghold and conibear traps, some form of .22 is probably a good idea. I typically use snares on big stuff and conibears on little stuff- I like quick killing sets. I can't recall shooting more than a handful of caught animals.

The .17HMR gets high marks from predator hunters...trappers, not so much. It can be very destructive at close range. A bunch of trappers I know will not shoot a caught animal so as not to damage a pelt. A .22 Short or CB in the skull works well and doesn't tear up the fur.

You can also have your boy run a few "squirrel" sets, a No.1 Bridger on a horizontal pole works well. I don't know why, but squirrels can't seem to stay off the darn things.

A Single shot, break open greatly simplifies loading the CBs and shorts with cold little fingers ( why I use a small revolver, loaded in the truck!). One thing to consider, a trapping rifle will get abused like nothing else. Shooting will be close and you're going to carry it for miles, lighter and shorter the better. One of my friends who is a professional trapper uses the "Pak Rifle"...which is neat as heck, but probably not the best choice for a young'n. Something like a Savage Cub might be ideal though.

 

[filmjunkie4ever]

I have a Rossi 62A pump action (a discontinued Winchester 62 clone) in .22 LR that is a straight shooter with open sights.

That gets my knod...

Good luck.

 

[Polaris]

As for finishing shots, I typically only use them on fox, coyote and skunk, occasionally raccoon if one ends up in a drag set. I use a lot of drag sets here, and they tend to end up in places where you cannot get in cleanly for a whack to the cerebellum. I'm not fond of finishing big coyotes that way to begin with and would never recommend a youngster do that. I've found the 38 grain subsonic LR load to be about perfect. Will not exit with a properly placed head shot, still has enough power to heart shoot a skunk to minimize risk of him spraying and they chamber just fine in any manual action LR gun. CBEEs have let me down in this regard. I used to use them, but occasionally one would fail to penetrate the skull cleanly and require a second shot. Here in MN, we are similar to WI in that killing sets are not recommended or allowed on dry land. Too many sporting dogs, small children and protected Lynx running about for that. I have found the 160 mag connibear in a cubby set to be dynamite on Coon and Fisher/martin though. Most of the coon I catch are near water on drowning locks or in cubbies with 160 or 220 connibears. I would not use a 17 HMR or .22 mag for finishing critters. They both make a mess of head shots, I know this.

 

[bbearhntr]

Thanks for all of the outstanding advice. It sounds as if his Keystone Cricket single shot will work as needed. He has been busy practicing! We can drag it through the mud without worries and it will perform just fine. I'll use a new gun for him as a reward at the end of season for getting out of bed early and checking our traps together before school. Hopefully we catch a mess of fur to help fund it. That Marlin 39A looks sweet!

 

[Gunner46]

Ever watch Swap People? (alligator trappers). They pretty much just use .22's, and none of the weapons look all that purty.

A serious trapper weapon is light, handy, TUFF, won't ruin a pelt, and reliable. You're going to be a couple of feet, or a few inches, before you tap the trigger, so accuracy is relevant.

Tons of Remington Nylon 66, 11's were sold back in the 60's & 70's for just this reason. Ruger's 10/22 is more $$, but more popular these days.

If a Trapper rifle is what you're into, a Papoose single shot, is all you will ever truly need.