Tubbs Final Finish

wvbuckbuster

Handloader
Nov 5, 2015
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Has anyone used David Tubbs Final Finish and if so, what were your results in a factory barrel? Did you use all 5 steps firing all the bullets provided or just steps 3-5? I have a barrel that bullet fouls a lot, but accuracy is more than acceptable. Just wondering if this process would improve or reduce the fouling or hurt accuracy? Let me know your thoughts. Dan.
 
Yes! Rather a long time ago when they were fairly new, maybe 20 years ago.

I had a 7mm Rem Mag "Sendero" that was accurate but had a rough bore and fouled easily. Ran the Tubbs Final Finish bullets through it. I don't remember if I used all the steps or not. I might be able to figure that out.

The accuracy didn't seem to change, it was always good, but the fouling was greatly reduced after using the Final Finish bullets.

Regards, Guy
 
I used them on my P64 338 and 30-06. I actually didn’t think they’d work but oh my God they saved those rifles. They both fouled like crazy and had some rough tool Mark’s in them. Neither shot amazing.

I used every bullet they sent with the lowest charge I could load for them and just watched my groups shrink.

If you look back you might find my threads. Those Tubbs literally saved those rifles. Now they are two of my best. Beware it will lengthen your throat a smidge but in mine, I actually didn’t mind a bit.
 
I'm in the process of using it right now. I have done the first 2 steps, 3 to go. I am using all 10 bullets because it's all-or-nothing for this rifle.
In my case it's either rebarrel the rifle or try this. By the time I'm done with the rebarrel, Cerakote, etc it would be about $1000, so I'm trying the Tubbs to see if accuracy improves enough that it's a usable rifle.

What is interesting is that the second group of 10 shots was notable smaller than the first group of 10 shots. I know you're not supposed to pay attention to the groups these bullets make, but it's still an interesting observation. We will see what 3, 4 and 5 bring.
 
Mine was printing some rather nice groups with those Final Finish bullets as well.

Long time ago, didn't document it well enough. That rifle was pretty doggone accurate.

Guy
 
I can’t tell you how much it turned the corner for my 338 and 06. They were bad. Fouled like crazy and wouldn’t shoot. Had to clean them constantly.

After the Tubbs I DBC’ed the bores and now they just plain shoot.
 
I used it on a 22-250 that was very bad about fouling. Used the complete set. Huge improvement. Looking at it with a borescope shows no noticeable ill effects.

I also used it on a 35 Whelen JES rebore that was also showing it was going to be pretty bad about fouling. I quit after bullet number 4 of the second set. I looked at it with a borescope and the rifling just ahead of the throat was being ground down pretty hard. Could not believe how much rifling it had wore down. If I had continued it would've ruined it. I'm finishing it out by shooting cast bullets, then removing any lead when needed by wrapping extra fine steel wool around an undersized bore brush. It cleans out the lead lickety split, and polishes the bore.

To be clear on a couple of things. A. It was a fresh rebore so running them over virgin steel as it was never shot enough to be seasoned so to speak. B. It is the original barrel on an 03 Springfield, so possible it's somewhat softer steel than typical. C. Maybe JES runs a tight bore on his rebore's and I was forcing a gritted bullet into a slightly undersized bore.

Don't have the answers to all of it, only know what happened in 1 case. Tubbs did not have an answer as to why that would've happened. So I'd use them again if needed, but I'd say if you have a borescope it might pay to monitor the progress.
 
Good intel ST.
I doubt the vast majority of people will ever see anything but improved results Scotty, Tubbs has been used a lot. But just putting out there that all things are not always equal. You do see on discussions where there's some guys saying they wont use it again as it wore the throat too much, etc. Most have nothing but high praise for it. So there is occasional different results it seems. But nothing a little bit of monitoring can't keep up with.

I'd say if a person checks it occasionally as you're going along and doesn't see anything that stands out as negative, keep right on rolling with it as the end result is going to be a big improvement more than likely.
 
For sure. Like Doc V mentioned. The Tubbs was the last straw before the guns got new barrels so it was all or nothing.

Hell, I shot the 10 round sets through my 06 pretty mean cause I was so mad. I figured If I hurt it I’d have Krieger make me another just like it.

Turns out it works like a champ.
 
On a side note as they say necessity is the mother of invention. When I went to shooting the cast bullets, I didn't have anything special to remove lead fouling. Didn't feel like cleaning it the normal brushing way every time. Was getting it, but taking some time.

Thought it over and thought I'd try the wrapping fine steel wool around an undersized bore brush. Figured it might work as a 2'fer with the steel wool being harder than lead but acting as a polisher on the bore steel. That 03 Springfield barrel is a good barrel to experiment on.

Is working great. I run 2 wet patches through to remove the bulk of the dirt and powder fouling, then 10 straight single passes from breech to muzzle with the fine steel wool lubricated lightly with Hoppe's at the start. Checking with the borescope reveals it takes all the lead out. Couple more wet patches, then dry after that and done.

To be fair I'm not letting it get heavy lead fouled, but after 25 shots or so there is some small but heavier patches right at the start of rifling, and a couple smears of heavier lead farther down the bore. Takes it right out.
 
Hey guys thanks for the info. Real good responses. I will try the Tupps and think I'll start with the first and go to the last step. Worst case if it makes the groups worse, I'll barrel it. Thanks again, Dan.
 
I recently used it on a rough Savage 6.5 PRC. I used all the steps and can't really see an accuracy improvement, nor did it decrease accuracy. But the dang thing is super easy to clean now. It did increase the base to ogive (touching the lands) measurement a tiny bit.
 
Ihad a Winchester M70 FWT 7x57 that fouled badly. I mean really badly as in just one 20 round box of ammo through the bore and accuracy was gone. Couldn't find a Tubbs and any of my LGS but did find a Wheeler kit. It only uses three grits, coasre, medium and fine. You have to coat the bullets yourself. Instructions said do 10 bulles with each grit and clean between grits. I decided to do five of each grit and use a cast bullet instead of a jacketed one. So I prepped each bullet plus 5 more with JB Bore paste. Then after the final cleaning shot a box of ammo (20 rounds) and checked for fouling. There was some minor fouling but two things were noticed. Velocity increased slightly and accuracy noticeably improved. Guess I can't complain about that.
Paul B.
 
I got it ordered. If it makes it foul less, I'll be happy. If there's an improvement there's another one in the safe that might get the treatment as well. Dan.
 
I ve done a good dozen rifles with SSS (Tubbs) Final Finish. I only use it on factory barrels like Rem 700 s, Weatherby Vanguards, etc.

I ll get a new rifle, clean it bare, no copper, carbon or anything. I will typically fire 1/2 of the bullets (5) of grits 2-5. I ll sometimes do 6-7 of #4 and #5. As per Tubbs instruction use a beginning charge of a fast for cartridge powder ( probably less powder foul that way) and I clean to bare metal after each grit is fired. I shoot them slowly and minimize barrel heat. I ve found accuracy is sub moa if rifle in good condition and much easier to clean after a range session than an untreated production barrel.

Tubbs recommends shooting 2-3 of grit #3 as a maintenance item after every 200-300 rounds of fire. I ve not done that personally.

Have been very satisfied in all cases where I ve used them.
 
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