Tubbs Final Finish

That sounds like a good idea. Where did you get Bore-Tek Coat? Dan.
I should have typed Dyna-tech instead of bore-tech…..Last time I used it was a year ago and I got it from midway.
 
I would avoid anything stainless in your bore, steel wool, brushes, etc. It's too easy to scratch the bore.

On a good match type barrel, I would never see the need, reason, or purpose. But as it relates to this thread, you have to be kidding. Read back through these posts.........most of the rifles were fouling in less than 20 shots. They are ROUGH. Microscopic scratches is the least of any concern.

What is being discussed and for the most part promoted as a fix, is using progressively less rough gritted bullets fired at high speed and high pressure through these bores. It removes steel, then polishes out what remains. If it didn't, it wouldn't work.

0000 extra fine steel wool is finer grade and more polishing than 400 grit sandpaper. Most chambers are polished out with 400 grit. Working at it manually in 24 hr shifts, 50 men would destroy their elbow joints using 0000 steel wool long before they ever got the high spots wore down in rough bores, and started adding in microscopic "scratches."

Sometimes we way overthink things as it relates to high pressure tempered steel in rifles. My opinion.
 
Tubbs kit came today and have the bullets loaded. Decided to use them all. The grinding starts tomorrow. Dan.(y)
Keep us posted.

I have loaded up my 3rd set, but I don't think I will have the time and weather on the same day to get them shot.
 
If you re going to use all the number 1 compound I d forewarn you that those will lengthen your throat probably more than the other 4 grits.

If your rifle is shooting satisfactory accuracy wise Tubbs instructions will tell you to use grits 2 through 5. Those will smooth it up and reduce copper foul. Just wanted to let you know.
( I’ve typically only shot 4-5 of the rougher grits, (2-3) and then more of the fine grits. Good Luck.
 
If you are feeling froggy, run a little JB bore paste through the barrels. Otherwise, just shoot it, it will knock off the rough edges.
 
Went to the range today spent about 4hrs shooting the Tubbs,cooling barrel, cleaning and all that stuff. Took my time and didn't let barrel get too hot.
This is where I'm at. Bore seems smoother as patch slides pretty easy. Still fouling but not as bad. 1st picture is patch after wipe out soaking for 30mins when finished shooting step #4. 2nd picture is after wipe out soaking for 1hr when finished with step #5. You can see the difference. Before using the Tubbs there'd be a dozen dark blue patches. So it did reduce the fouling somewhat. Going to coat bore with Dyna-Tek before shooting anymore. Picture of the group progression and the rifle. Hope I didn't bore you guys too much. Dan.20220315_153205.jpg20220315_153205.jpg
 

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Instructions says not to pay attention to the groups but 4&5 did improve some. Will shoot proven loads later to see what changes if any take place. Dan.
 
Very interesting thread and anxiously awaiting your results. I've got a mid 2000's 700 that may be a candidate.
 
Very interesting thread and anxiously awaiting your results. I've got a mid 2000's 700 that may be a candidate.
+1

Thanks for all the good info.

I hand lapped my 223 Rem 700 with Brownell's lapping compound a few years ago as it fouled really bad and that helped considerably.
 
Dan, I’m very interested to hear how it turns out for you. I also very much want to know how the Dyna-Tek works for you. I’ve never heard of it, but the premiss seems like it could give great results. Good luck!
 
Ordered up a 30 cal Tubbs kit and loaded it for my 300 HH #1. As was noted above this was a make or break deal on this rifle for me as it was for others. I have been searching for a #1 in 300 HH for quite a while, this one looked good but had proven inconsistent at best. So far Ive made it through the first 30 rounds. Directions said not to worry about groups. I thought I should at least do my best. Lower right of the photo is the first 10 rounds, upper left are rounds 25 thru 30. Cleaning certainly improved between each series as well, hopefully that trend also continues.
After 30 rounds I was getting a little punchy, the wind came up and it started to rain, figured I would quit while I was ahead and finish next week some time.
I did adjust the elevation down a couple of clicks anticipating full power loads will likely be higher than I want.
 

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Doing the Tubbs treatment was for me trying to reduce bullet fouling not improving accuracy. Between it and the Dyna-Tek bore stuff I didn't see a whole lot of improvement. It still fouled more that I wanted to put up with. So, I had it barreled. Glad it is working for you. Dan.
 
Ordered up a 30 cal Tubbs kit and loaded it for my 300 HH #1. As was noted above this was a make or break deal on this rifle for me as it was for others. I have been searching for a #1 in 300 HH for quite a while, this one looked good but had proven inconsistent at best. So far Ive made it through the first 30 rounds. Directions said not to worry about groups. I thought I should at least do my best. Lower right of the photo is the first 10 rounds, upper left are rounds 25 thru 30. Cleaning certainly improved between each series as well, hopefully that trend also continues.
After 30 rounds I was getting a little punchy, the wind came up and it started to rain, figured I would quit while I was ahead and finish next week some time.
I did adjust the elevation down a couple of clicks anticipating full power loads will likely be higher than I want.
It has saved my bacon in a few rifles now. Maybe not a magic potion, it literally made two rifles into solid shooting rigs and looking at your targets, I believe you'll like what you see when you finish up Don.
 
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