150 Nosler Ballistic Tip & 7mag.

Darkhorse

Handloader
Mar 14, 2014
800
150
Thanks for the welcome everyone. The rifle does look nice as I take care of my gear. But if you look up close the blueing is worn in spots and that shiney stock has a few dents. I used this rifle hard for a number of years. It was built December of '81 and I bought it early spring of '82. It's traveled to Colorado and to the deep snow of a New Mexico november elk hunt where I took my first bull.
No, I don't have a 35 Whelan but I do have a .300 Win. Mag. if that's of any consequence.

All testing was done with a Leupold Vari X-III 3.5X10, and from experience 10X is not enough for tight groups with these 61+ year old eyes.
WW cases were neck turned to 85%, primer pocket radius was removed with a tool I ground, flash hole deburred and case mouth chamfered. Cases were trimmed to -.010 nominal case length. An attempt was made to sort by neck hardness but It slipped my mind to sort by weight. Age does that to you.
Cases were full length sized with a "trued" RCBS die with the expander removed. Cases were expanded with the elliptical hornady expander screwed down past the hornady die mouth so no sizing would be done. The die was left loose in the press threads to float and the shell holder was also loose to float.
Bullet seating was done with the Hornady new dimension seating die with sliding stem.

In this case I started with a few known parameters. I knew my longest shot would be 420 yards. I knew I would use IMR 4350 and I wanted my velocity to be around 3100 fps if possible. Closer shots were probable and I wanted to minimize meat damage yet go for a DRT shot.
A few years ago I spent 2 years working with a Browning Abolt .300 W/BOSS, and during that process learned a lot about barrel oscillation. I was going to approach working up a load by varying seating depth and powder charge changes to attempt to tune the load internally instead of externally as with a barrel tuner.
Page 1: Was to set a baseline and starting point and also as pressure checks due to a new lot of powder. Case belts were measured before and after firing along with the normal pressure signs.
60 to 61 grs. at .030 seat depth (all my bullet seating is measured with bullet comparators) looked promising.
Page 2: Target B hit the sweet spot dead on with 60.5 grs. at .030 seat depth.
Target C should have been tighter as I saw a sliver of target white beside my vertical crosshair just as the shot broke.
Page 3: I would probably hunt with Target B as the flyer was probably the shooter and most important 2 shots dead center vertically, the group is also higher than Target B Page 2 indicating higher velocity due to seating closer to the lands and a 1/2 grain increase in powder.
Page 4: Well, I just had to shoot a couple of max loads, after all it is a Magnum. I thought I might luck into a good load for a future hunt and have it for record. It's going to take some more work at a later date.

So, from these pages one group will be decided on for next year. I'm out of bullets. I like group B, page 2 best of all. And it fits my original parameter as by the book 60.5 grains should be right at 3100 fps. My problem is, I no longer have access to a chronograph and I'm just not sure how accurate the book is. I have 2 older Nosler manuals and the data hasn't changed to the present.
I would not have a problem hunting with group B, page 3, with 61. grs. But again, I don't know the velocity.
I know only a Chrono'd load from MY rifle is accurate as to speed. But I'm wondering if anybody out there has an educated guess as to the actual velocity of these 2 loads?
Which one would you pick?

I'm pretty confidant in my shooting and think these groups are a good representation of the effects of small changes in depth and charge. Notice how the POI changes slightly with each change.
Looks like my targets start with #4 instead of #1, but I'm not going to redo them. I'll now better next time.
 

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Although each rifle is different as far as velocity for a given load, in
my experience the speeds have been lower than what I thought they
would be. That .181 is a tiny group and if you knew the speed then dialing
out to 400 is easy whether its 3100 or not. Others may disagree I think what
you want is with the 61gr loads. For 125$ you can chrono those loads and know for sure.
Being OCD I love it when someone is as meticulous as you. It will be interesting
following your progress. And you never know exactly were they will cross on
them powerlines. Great shooting.
 
In my 24 inch barreled 7mm Rem Mag, you would be getting about 3000 fps with that load, or maybe less depending on chamber pressure and how you size your cases. The 7mm mags have a reputation for giving velocities which are lower than expectations.

You really need a chronograph to optimize handloaded groups in a magnum case unless you just get lucky. You are getting nice groups which are well shaped, with an occasional flyer. You are on your way to getting better results but without knowing where you truly are with velocity and pressure, it is hard to optimize a load. It would really help to buy a cheaper Chrono or find someone who will let you use theirs.
 
Very meticulous work yielding a lot of information on your rifle. You have several loads to work with. You likely have lots of room to play with charge if higher velocities are a concern. I suspect you are near 2950 to 3000 fps in velocity at 61 grains of IMR4350, which is not shabby. You have ample energy to drop game cleanly within the range you anticipate shooting. I'd focus on one, or no more than two charges and verify accuracy. You have a fine rifle and you're producing some excellent loads to complement the rifle. Congratulations.
 
I think I'll load 5 at 61. grains and really see what the group looks like. I have 7 bullets left, might as well shoot another group.
In the past I never got a boat tail bullet to shoot really good in this rifle. Of course back then it was all about velocity. I think the 150 BT is a little fussy in my rifle. It may be that for a hot load I'll need to try different powders, but this will do for my needs this coming season. Next year I want to try some 150 gr. long range accubonds if I can get my hands on some.
My goto bullet has always been the 154 Hornady spire point. The hotter the load the tighter they shot. And since I started with old manuals these loads were well above the anemic max loads of today. This bullet has never failed me but in this instance they would be the wrong bullet as sometimes the deer will run aways before expiring as they are a tough bullet up close or far away.
Due to property lines and me possibly getting a new knee this year, I need to drop whatever I shoot real close to point of impact. This is why I chose the Ballistic Tip due to it's reputation. I also bought some 165 gr. Ballistic Tips for my .300 Win. Mag. but haven't had a chance to wring them out yet.
Several years ago I was partners in a Chronograph with a couple of friends. One day it stopped working and wasn't replaced. We have all since retired and I don't know any serious hand loaders anymore to borrow one from.
I guess I need to buy one as I'm sure missing that data right about now...
 
A chronograph is my next big gun products purchase.
I'm just waiting for them to get the kinks worked out on this model and let others be the Beta Tester:

http://www.mylabradar.com/

Thanks to Fotis, here in the forum, I have a way to spend my money. :grin:

Vince
 
Now that is an interesting chrono. It looks like the Leica instruments (Theodolyte Sp?) we used when I worked in Optical Tooling and Calibration for a few years.
I wonder what "affordable" really means?
I would need more detail on what projectiles it will really measure. In the Faqs I read this "Will typically measure a 7.62 projectile at 100 yards", this is great for my .308 and .300 win. but how about the smaller calibers?
Do you get a 100 yd. velocity. Or can you choose a muzzle velocity or anywhere in between that and a 100 yards.
I have bookmarked that site because this technology really interests me and I want to keep up with it.
 
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