270 Lazermark

Dr Vette: i am good at tearing stuff apart and not bad on putting stuff back together but i ordered that 270 trigger last night as firearms i am not too familiar with but from what you have explained to me and the article you linked i think it would be an easy fix but i had 150.00 bucks too much and just like the feel of the Timney as i can feel a difference in quality! i like mine about 2 1/2 to 2 3/4 Lb of pull! Still trying to figure what to do with the removed triggers but i think i will keep them and sell with the rifle if i ever sell either? Most of my factory triggers have not been all that bad as i jus like the feel and smoothness of the Timney triggers!
 
I like good triggers too, but the best triggers I own are modified factory triggers, not Timneys.
I went downstairs and checked my Timneys vs other triggers after you posted. The Timneys are far better than many factory triggers but for whatever reason I have others that I like better. I can't get a pre-Accutrigger Savage to work as I'd like but have no problems with Weatherby Mark V's, and the Remingtons I had tuned by a gunsmith at half the cost of a Timney are divine.

That's why I recommend you try the nominal cost of the spring and give it a try.

I don't sell these or have any relationship to Ernie who sells them ( http://erniethegunsmith.com/catalog/i34.html ). I'm just not convinced that the $100 for a Timney should be the mandatory first step. :wink:

Patrick

PS. Have fun with the rifle. I'll leave you alone now. :grin:
 
You can set the Timney trigger sear engagement so that the rifle will pass the slam test and dropping it on its recoil pad tests wthout disengaging the sear pin and/or firing the rifle. I set my .340 Mark V Timney trigger to engage at least .014 inches on the sear pin. That way, I can use a lighter pull, still pass the slam tests and be safe.

My primary reason for replacing the Weatherby Japanese Mark V trigger was that the sear pin is a MIM's part and has an extremely high coefficient of surface friction. I never could adjust the MIM's sear creep roughness out of the Japanese trigger. The Timney trigger still has some creep by design, but it is much smoother and can be set at 2.5 pounds which is were mine is set. It is not perfect but my 5-shot groups immediately stopped having a flyer with the Timney trigger.
 
OT,

With some Flitz and a few judicious seconds of my Dremel too with a buffing wheel the sear and trigger can be exceptionally smooth. It's not enough to affect the hardened surface but it makes a signficant difference in smoothness of pull. Every trigger I touch gets this treatment.
 
Good idea Dr.Vette, I do some of that to my triggers as well. I just did my FN Mauser sear last week that way. It had a little pit with burr on it.
 
None of the Timney's I own have any creep and that is why I keep using them and when they start having any i will be on the phone to Timney for support! this is my 4th Timney and have not needed to tear any of them apart to replace parts or tweak anything as they have been flawless and as long as I can afford them I would use nothing else. tried a Rifle Basic trigger on a 2K dollar rifle off the shelf and could no believe how creepy it was this PM? I have also never had to adjust the sear adjustment on any of my Timney's as all my adjustments pass all Timney test's with no malfunctions. Timney also requires them to be contacted before adjusting the sear on their triggers but so far I have had no need to call them because the ones I have swapped out are really sweet, crisp and are nice and smooth and a Mark V trigger is 150.00 bucks and the Vanguard 's are 123.00 bucks which I have no issue buying for the quality I have experienced? I have yet to find a trigger as smooth as any of my Timney's and I am just not into modifying trigger groups but by all means respect your ability to work a trigger group Dr!
 
My Japanese Mark V did not pass the drop on recoil pad or bolt slam test when I swapped the trigger and installed the new Timney trigger. The screws on the old Japanese trigger had buggered Phillip's heads, partially because they were MIM's parts. I had to drill out the old MIM's screws, make new steel Metric steel screws for the trigger installation. So I bought stronger hex head, steel countersunk and cap screws (3mm and 4mm dia. respectively) and had to Dremel grind the screw heads and grind-to-length the screw threads to make them match the old screws, fit the countersink diameters and length of thread engagement in the action and trigger housing.

The original owner of this rifle had never fired the .340 rifle but had ruined the trigger screws with an improper screwdriver and I did not want to replace them with MIM's screws from Weatherby and have the heads wallow out again. I suspect that he had adjusted the sear engagement dimension as well because it slam fired and drop fired with both the old and new triggers. I had no choice but to make new screws after drilling the old ones out and then adjusting the sear engagement to specification (.014 inches).

It is really no big deal to understand and adjust this geometry. I also hand stoned the sear surface on the bolt to make it square and reduce the sear edge chamfer slightly. It works a whole lot better now and is safe at 2-1/2 pounds pull. Creep is minimal for a Weatherby designed trigger of this Japanese vintage. It also makes a difference as to who made your Weatherby (US, Germany or Japan) as to how much the trigger creep improves with a Timney. Plus the Weatherby Timney is a very different design than a Mauser Tmney trigger.

I know, you asked me the time and I told you how to build a watch! However, it is useful to know about these idiosyncracies.
 
Very nice Lazermark. I have always liked them. Just have one currently, but hope to add more.
 
I think since it is a raining somewhere in NM today as it's 10:30 am and we have no sunlight i might install my Timney in my Lazer this morning! Thanks for liking it and i am just glad they are building them in Paso Robles now as i had a small surprise when i opened my box and noticed the rear sling stud missing from the gun completely and it was an unopened box until i opened it at my FFL. No big deal as i know the CS folks at Weatherby would take care of me but the thought of refusing to take the rifle did cross my mind while at my FFL! This is why i am glad this rifle will now be produced where it should be produced :)
 
Trigger changed and it is pulling at 3.8lb/oz so i wanta take it down to 2.12lb/oz and see how that feels and then loctite then final torque on bottom metal! Nice to live close to Phoenix as i had my new trigger in 3 days :)
 
finished up and it's pulling at 2.12lb/oz so i am calling that good for me as i do not wanta go towards 2.8 lb/oz any more than that!
 
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