I have been loading for a 300 Weatherby and not getting great results. So I decided to buy some factory ammo to see what the fps is and the OAL etc. The Weatherby factory load I bought, made by Norma, the 180 grain AccuBond has a cannelure groove, the AccuBond bullets I buy do not have this. Are the ones with the grooves available to the public? Will they make a difference in how you seat the bullet/crimp which may effect accuracy? I measured the new brass I bought from Nosler and it is .005 shorter than the Norma brass, and the loaded rounds are .025 shorter than the ones I ahve reloaded. Does seating the bullet deeper make a more accurate load? I am looking forward to trying these to see!
30 cal accubond 180 gr question
- Thread starter dkmlever
- Start date
- Oct 30, 2004
- 24,395
- 3,324
Sometimes if you buy the seconds from Nosler they do sport the cann.
Try imr 7828 and rl 22 rl25.....
Try imr 7828 and rl 22 rl25.....
- Nov 4, 2004
- 25,488
- 9,377
dkmlever
Nosler had factory seconds a while back, 30 cal 180 gr AB with an Orange Tip and a cannleure.
JD338
Nosler had factory seconds a while back, 30 cal 180 gr AB with an Orange Tip and a cannleure.
JD338
Hi There,
I load .330 wby with good success, IE 1/2 inch groups for partitions, and slightly better for accubonds. Here are a couple or tips for you.
1) Weatherby's have a lot of free bore. So, the longer the overall cartridge, the better the group, but you will not be able to get them into your magazine. So, measure the magazine, and subtract around 1/8" for overall length. Seating the bullet deeper will hurt the accuracy.
2) Weatherby's, due to the freebore, are suseptable to run-out problems. Get a micrometer and measure your runnout, and i bet that it is over 15 thousandths for some of your loads. You can help solve this with benchrest dies, neck turning, and when seating, start the bullet, then turn the cartridge 90 degrees and finish the bullet. Also the bench rest die should be better at the overall length control.
3) Weatherbys like hot loads. Most of the factory ammo that i tested was above the max load in the nosler book. While no-one can recommend that you go beyond max loads, my best loads are about 1/2 gr hotter than the max in the book. IE, 85gr of IMR7828.
If you do all of that, and the gun still will not group, likely you have a problem with the scope mount, barrel mount, or trigger. I use leopold mounts, swaroski or zeiss scopes, and my trigger is set at 2.5 lbs with absolutely no creep.
Best of luck,
Hardpan
I load .330 wby with good success, IE 1/2 inch groups for partitions, and slightly better for accubonds. Here are a couple or tips for you.
1) Weatherby's have a lot of free bore. So, the longer the overall cartridge, the better the group, but you will not be able to get them into your magazine. So, measure the magazine, and subtract around 1/8" for overall length. Seating the bullet deeper will hurt the accuracy.
2) Weatherby's, due to the freebore, are suseptable to run-out problems. Get a micrometer and measure your runnout, and i bet that it is over 15 thousandths for some of your loads. You can help solve this with benchrest dies, neck turning, and when seating, start the bullet, then turn the cartridge 90 degrees and finish the bullet. Also the bench rest die should be better at the overall length control.
3) Weatherbys like hot loads. Most of the factory ammo that i tested was above the max load in the nosler book. While no-one can recommend that you go beyond max loads, my best loads are about 1/2 gr hotter than the max in the book. IE, 85gr of IMR7828.
If you do all of that, and the gun still will not group, likely you have a problem with the scope mount, barrel mount, or trigger. I use leopold mounts, swaroski or zeiss scopes, and my trigger is set at 2.5 lbs with absolutely no creep.
Best of luck,
Hardpan
I also load for alot of wetherbies. First off...do not set your bullets 1/8" shorter than magazine length. That would be .125" and that kind of space is not needed. I would start my testing by seating the bullets .020" shorter than magazine length. I have found runnout in freebore factory weatherbies DOESN'T make alot of difference but I do try to make the rounds very concentric like the above poster.
MY first question to you would be how many powders have your tried?
Do you have a chronograph??
I do agree that I7828 is a very good powder to start with as is RE22, H1000 and even retumbo.
Also wetherbies can load the rifling in the barrel up with copper...are you using a good copper cleaner as part of your barrel cleaning?
MY first question to you would be how many powders have your tried?
Do you have a chronograph??
I do agree that I7828 is a very good powder to start with as is RE22, H1000 and even retumbo.
Also wetherbies can load the rifling in the barrel up with copper...are you using a good copper cleaner as part of your barrel cleaning?
- Oct 30, 2004
- 24,395
- 3,324
JD338":cbzphc47 said:
Right on! I assume for Winchester Combined technology loads.
My 160 AB's 7mm were like that.
Kraky,
Good advice. I found that some of the .300s that I load for have different sized magazines, so I moved to the shorter size so that I can interchange loads. Not sure about 2 hundredths, seems kind of tight, but if it doesn't jam, it is a better load.
I have seen 2 custom and 1 stock rifle that really don't like the runnout. Basically, i tested loads with 5-10 thousandths and they grouped, but rounds with 10-15 thousandths did not. For me, grouping means that the entire 3 shot holes can be covered by a dime or a quarter. I try to get a quarter size group with 100% consistency, and can get dime groups about 55% of the time.
hardpan
Good advice. I found that some of the .300s that I load for have different sized magazines, so I moved to the shorter size so that I can interchange loads. Not sure about 2 hundredths, seems kind of tight, but if it doesn't jam, it is a better load.
I have seen 2 custom and 1 stock rifle that really don't like the runnout. Basically, i tested loads with 5-10 thousandths and they grouped, but rounds with 10-15 thousandths did not. For me, grouping means that the entire 3 shot holes can be covered by a dime or a quarter. I try to get a quarter size group with 100% consistency, and can get dime groups about 55% of the time.
hardpan
