300 RUM Reloaders Inside Please

Wondermutt

Beginner
Jan 6, 2012
185
0
Question. How often do you anneal your Nosler brass?

Have you noticed a need to change the frequency between annealing with dffrent powders.

Thanks

WM
 
I've made it a practice to anneal after every firing. I've found a decent system to do it, doesn't hurt nothing and seems to keep things consistent. My brass life is very good on my side doing it like that. With well set up dies I'll lose a case to a loose primer pocket long before a split neck or any other problem.
 
Scotty, do you loose that much neck tension between reloadings to have to anneal after each firing? I've been doing it for every 5 loads while working up loads for the 35AI.
 
Care to share your system. I do it with a drill, torch and a wet cloth.

I am open to an easier method any day.

Thanks
 
I watched Scotty's u-tube demo and try to copy what he did with a drill and torch using map gas in a semi dark room to see the color change.
It works well and you can watch the heat run down the neck to the shoulder in about 4 seconds.
 
I no longer load for the .300 RUM, but have long practiced a method that goes along with my philosophy of living simply when I can:

Hold the brass case by my fingers, over a standard, good old, wax candle. Whatever scent makes you content...

Twirl and twist that case neck above the flame, until the brass is too hot to hold. That doesn't take long.

Drop it onto a damp cloth. Use the cloth to remove the soot, which also cools the metal and prevents the heat from getting far down towards the case head.

Move on to the next.

Ridiculously low tech? Yes. Effective? Very. This method has received some press by John Barsness, but he got it from a metallurgist.

Regards, Guy
 
Too funny guy. That is how I started but thought mabey I was doing it wrong so I opted for a drill and torch.

I was annealing them after the fourth round. I was worried about neck tension so i did not do them any sonner than the fourth firing. i have been having some weird pressure spikes with the brass. Nothing has changed and I even went as far as to reduce the load by 3 grains and still have the same issue. Thought mabey it was specific to the caliber and brass or just the lowest common denominator... Me (y)
 
In to learn. I never have annealed any of the calibers I load and have never split a neck because primer pockets loosen first.
 
I use a drill, 9/16 socket and MAP gas. I work in an almost completely dark room and just as soon as I see them change color I drop them in an aluminum pie tin. Haven't monkeyed one up yet. I've never found the need to use water either.

Took me about an hour to do all of these.



The different ones I did this last time.



After they are all tumbled and cleaned up.

 
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