.338 round 3 ?

I tend also to go with loads that I use year in and year out. When I find a bullet/load/length combination which gives me the level of working accuracy that I need, to 300 yards, I am done and usually don't touch it unless something changes. All my rifles are hunting rifles.

Yeah, I was an engineer but I am still more of a shooter than handloading maven to a point. This is more true as I approach 70 years old. I can still shoot sub MOA groups from the bench, even with the .340 Bee but it is getting harder and practical accuracy is getting more sensible.
 
Oldtrader3":3krq3x94 said:
practical accuracy is getting more sensible.

This has to be one of the best comments in regards to accuracy and loading your own ammo for hunting uses.
 
DrMike":bh03s1yz said:
Dave,

I've actually had a few rifles that variations of as little as 0.002 inches spelled the difference between MOA and 0.2 inches. The differential was reproducible, but so fiddly that it would be almost impossible to ensure it would work in the field. In each instance, I discarded that length and sought out another load that would work.

I understand and agree with that rationale Mike. In ways, I do the same. Meaning if I see radical changes with small incremental changes, I will switch powders in order to find a combination that is more progressive/regressive in nature. Hopefully finding one that is less fickle. Usually once I find that load, I know it won't vary much with a +/- .005" seating depth setting. This gives me a reasonable amount assurance, from minor differences from lot to lot of bullets purchased. This is the other reason I stay with Nolser's, as I see less variance in their ogive's.

And while I like to know what's what, I agree with Charlie's point of practicality as well. So much of that for me depends on the usage of the rifle/load. For some of the short ranger's, even 2-3 moa will suffice for me. But, when the possible range starts to approach my self imposed max, I want combinations that will do 1 moa or better on big game rigs. This primarily due to my prefered PBR sighting practice's. (However I admit, even 1.5 moa isn't all that bad, for most situations my hunting style's would encounter). Hence, I will spend time shooting many combinations, in order to find what the particular firearm is capable of, even if it is to tighten up beyond 1 moa,,,just so I know. I won't turn down less if the capability is there. If the criteria isn't met for me with these loading practices, I will look to further issue's that may be present on the firearm itself. If no solution is found,,,,it's gone.
I will add however, so much of the fun is in load developement itself for me,,,,I really enjoy it. After that it is rather boring. However, I try to get shooting time with each rig every month during the off season, just to maintain some level intimacy with that particular firearm/setup. On some other's,,,,they are exciting and boring from the start. Meaning I have some barrels that will shoot fireforming loads within 2-3 tenths of the final load, and every .5 gr. in between. And sometimes with 2 or more powders, and to a point, regardless of seating depth. That don't happen often, but attribute that to uniformed necks, tight throats, and tight chamber tolerances in general, set to the dies themselves, that I ask of my gunsmith. (got to love EDM machined chambers :lol: )
 
onesonek":aflq47se said:
However, I try to get shooting time with each rig every month during the off season, just to maintain some level intimacy with that particular firearm/setup.

See, I am ahead of the game, since I am shooting almost all M70's! Keeps it easy... Man, I finally figured out an excuse for collecting all the kinda rifle.... I won't be dropping that on the wife just yet though!
 
Mine may no longer all be Model 70's but they are all Sako-Mauser, Mark V, Model 70 with the same pull length, recoil pad type and trigger settings (2.5-3 lbs, no creep). My Mark V has a Timney trigger now. Most also have European type scopes on them. The rifles except for the Sako all weigh the same and have 24 inch barrels. They are about as much peas-in-a-pod as I can make them.

Over the past 50 years, I have thinned the herd to (7) high powered rifles that will all shoot MOA or better almost all of the time. The single exception being 1.5 MOA for the 210 Partition in the .338 Federal but it is a wood's rifle and will consistantly put 4 out of 5 shots into 3/4's MOA. The Federal Sako will shoot factory fodder easily into MOA.

I have practiced a lot until I can almost shoot as well in a sitting position, as from the bench, and with loads which I don't even have to think about what I am shooting (they are always the same), I can set up a 2 inch cone of fire with a 200 yard zero and not even think about trajectory or anything but concentration to 350 yards.
 
SJB358":3a49tc8a said:
onesonek":3a49tc8a said:
However, I try to get shooting time with each rig every month during the off season, just to maintain some level intimacy with that particular firearm/setup.

See, I am ahead of the game, since I am shooting almost all M70's! Keeps it easy... Man, I finally figured out an excuse for collecting all the kinda rifle.... I won't be dropping that on the wife just yet though!


Yeah but,,,,
There definately is some advantages Scotty, shooting all M70's, but as long as you brought a woman into the equation,,,,,, :lol:
Just like women, whether they be all brunette's, redheads, ect., they all have individual personalities, even twins :lol: . And so it can be with rifles of the same model,,,,triggers can vary even if set up the same, then throw in recoil factors of different chamberings. All need attention specific to their own laws,,,,just like women :p
But I like your thought, as I'm pretty much the same with the single shot utilitarian king (my opinion),,,TC Encore. One thing I found with it, is to use a torque screw driver on the 2 forend screws,,,,,just like women, one does not want to torque her off. :lol: :p
But then too,,,,
For your last sentence,,, sometimes, the don't ask, don't tell senario is best. When caught, I just plead guilty and beg forgiveness, (note,,,, this often results in cleaning cobwebs from the doghouse however). Although, with the same model, it is easier just to hide and keep the count the same :wink:
:p :p :p :p
I know, I'm sometimes :twisted: ok ok,,,,most of the time :lol:
 
Being an OCD engineer, I have a place for evrything and everything in its place. This definitely works against me sometimes, especially in the gunsafe. I have everything in three sets of (4) guns sides and back of the safe, longer guns in the back. My wife may not know a Weatherby rifle from a Browning shotgun but she can count with her shoes on!

If I ever get to have any discretionary monies again (fat chance in retirement), I will probably expand the Model 70, pre-64 count again. However they have become pretty dearly priced for many essentially not even straight and/or original pieces now. I still see a lot of mix and match and refinished guns being sold as "original".

Sometimes it is even hard to know if they are fake, they are so cleverly done. However, at least on the Pre War and Transition guns, they scribed S/N's unto barrels, actions and stocks which makes it harder to fake them. If they don't match, they are fake. Plus, if you know the hardware and calibers which are proper for the era, that is half the battle.

Maybe I will just concentrate on the Browning made stuff? They are pretty nice and suit my needs just fine, especially now that they are chambering some nonstandard and/or original calibers again.
 
Oldtrader3":39t63vzn said:
Being an OCD engineer, I have a place for evrything and everything in its place. This definitely works against me sometimes, especially in the gunsafe. I have everything in three sets of (4) guns sides and back of the safe, longer guns in the back. My wife may not know a Weatherby rifle from a Browning shotgun but she can count with her shoes on!

If I ever get to have any discretionary monies again (fat chance in retirement), I will probably expand the Model 70, pre-64 count again. However they have become pretty dearly priced for many essentially not even straight and/or original pieces now. I still see a lot of mix and match and refinished guns being sold as "original".

Sometimes it is even hard to know if they are fake, they are so cleverly done. However, at least on the Pre War and Transition guns, they scribed S/N's unto barrels, actions and stocks which makes it harder to fake them. If they don't match, they are fake. Plus, if you know the hardware and calibers which are proper for the era, that is half the battle.

Maybe I will just concentrate on the Browning made stuff? They are pretty nice and suit my needs just fine, especially now that they are chambering some nonstandard and/or original calibers again.

What cartridge would you get Charlie, should you buy another long gun?
 
Scotty, I have not really though much about it but certainly a .300 H&H Super Grade would tempt me as would a 7mm Mauser. I already have a .257 Roberts which kind of scratches the 7mm Mauser itch but maybe selling my .340 Bee and buying the .300 would be a good move, should they ever chamber such a creature again.

I had a .300 WSM and did not like the rough magazine to chamber feeding with the short fat cartridge. The H&H cartridges all feed really smoothly in a CRF bolt action, especially in the Model 70. They are really slick feeding.
 
wisconsinteacher":18b7jul6 said:
I plan on starting at 73gr and going up .5 for a few groups of 3 then go shooting when the heat breaks. My Lee book says 74gr is max so I will work up slowly and keep a close eye on things.

Nosler list the 210gr with RL-19 76gr as max. Also shows 72gr as their accuracy load.
 
Just finished up reloading 3 of each: 73/73.5/74/74.5/75 grains. I hope to shoot them next week. Here is another question. Will there be a difference between the 210 PT with and without crimp grove? I have been using bullets with the grove and my next box does not have them. I would not think it would be a big difference.
 
Shouldn't be a big deal WT.. You will know right away if they change anything though. I shoot the 250's and 200's with and without the groove. Can't see a difference. Your rifle could be a little different though..
 
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