Annealing 30-06 brass
- Thread starter Rol_P
- Start date
truck driver
Ammo Smith
- Mar 11, 2013
- 7,303
- 845
Rol_P, I would checkout some of the U-tube videos on annealing and see what the correct temp is.
I have been basically guessing and have had no problems yet but what I do is chuck a socket(1/2" deep well on an ext) in my drill and spin the neck in a torch flame in very low light and watch the brass change color as the heat moves down the case and take it out of the flame when it reaches the shoulder.
I have been basically guessing and have had no problems yet but what I do is chuck a socket(1/2" deep well on an ext) in my drill and spin the neck in a torch flame in very low light and watch the brass change color as the heat moves down the case and take it out of the flame when it reaches the shoulder.
I'm not so sure that the temp is so critical. I've always stood up my brass in a cookie sheet with about .75 to 1" of water to ensure that there is no annealing of the case head or web. I apply the torch flame where the neck meets the shoulder, alternating from side to side to get the heat even. When it starts to change color, tip the brass over into the water to stop the process.
I've probably annealed several thousand pieces this way, and it has always worked for me. You can feel the difference when the brass goes into the sizing die.
I've probably annealed several thousand pieces this way, and it has always worked for me. You can feel the difference when the brass goes into the sizing die.
to anneal it takes time and temp . 3 - 6 seconds will be the time it should take .any longer you stand the chance of getting the case head to hot . 750 * on the neck . you must put the temp a lac on the inside of the neck or it will imediately flame up . the case head must not be heated over 400*
I got to get back to work , I think this is the link I wanted to post .
http://www.accurateshooter.com/technica ... annealing/
I got to get back to work , I think this is the link I wanted to post .
http://www.accurateshooter.com/technica ... annealing/
greenheadcaller
Beginner
- Jul 8, 2014
- 119
- 0
Rol_P":1lba9jjw said:
Its a great question. As responded immediately above mine.
Use Temp. 750 inside neck. Inside neck. Take out of heat source when tempilaq turns. This will occur before you see any red! Use it on every case if you don't have a machine. This is the way to consistent annealing and consistent neck tension. Absolutely no need for water, or benefit from water using this technique.
On 30-06 you should have no issues with getting base to hot ... but while you are at it, and for piece of mind....also order get some 450 degree and put on lower 1/2 outside of case .....to prove to yourself the heat is not migrating too far down.
hope this helps
(here is a link to some other long winded preaching (sorry) I did on the topic 8)
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=29155 )
joelkdouglas
Handloader
- Jun 5, 2011
- 1,310
- 3
Just stop before it's red hot. Use some crap brass first. 6 seconds is about right. If you get the wax you'll probably burn it before you see it change color. Then you'll realize you didn't need it anyway.
I don't use water. I use a 13mm deep socket in which to spin the brass piece, just dump it out in a melt-proof pan. 5-6 seconds.
Good luck!
I don't use water. I use a 13mm deep socket in which to spin the brass piece, just dump it out in a melt-proof pan. 5-6 seconds.
Good luck!
HeathSexton
Handloader
- May 12, 2006
- 1,205
- 34
joelkdouglas":rjugp9cp said:
5-6 seconds is the method I use too
I don't know if this interests any of you guys . I see guys building annealing machines , but they never seem to mention what they have done . I only read the first page of the build on AR15 forum , but it looks like one can be built for $100 - $150 plus your time .
http://forum.accurateshooter.com/thread ... t-36688889
http://forum.accurateshooter.com/thread ... t-36688889
Alderman":3lbdltq7 said:
the quick cooling does nothing but add a step to the process , drying the brass . if you get the case head hot enough to soften it , you will not get the brass in the water quick enough to stop the damage . this is why you need to get the neck heated to 750* quickly , it prevents the heat from traveling down the case to the head .
jimbires":3j1dxk4b said:
Exactly. I still use a cordless drill and spin them in a dark room. I know it seems like a knuckledragger way of doing it, but it works, soon as I just begin to see the hint of red, I drop it. Also, using MAP gas it happens quick. I can't remember ever hurting a case to this point either. For me, do small batches of brass, it works fast and is really easy for me.
Wyo7200
Handloader
- Aug 20, 2014
- 565
- 1
I go with 750/400.
I made me one of them skippy's case annealers. The instructions are on the 68forums, though they leave a lot to be desired. I outlined the process with tips on the 65creedmoor forum.
http://www.65creedmoor.com/?topic=2717.msg26123#msg26123
Using 750/400 templaq, large caliber cases stay in the flame for 10-15 seconds. The 400 melt line is 1/4" below the shoulder when the 750 melts and case is dropped. I'm not sure what RPM's the drum is turning the case, but I bet it is slower than those using the drills and sockets. The case cools pretty fast when it is not in the direct flame so it takes some rotations to build up to 750. .223's stay in 6-7 seconds.
I made me one of them skippy's case annealers. The instructions are on the 68forums, though they leave a lot to be desired. I outlined the process with tips on the 65creedmoor forum.
http://www.65creedmoor.com/?topic=2717.msg26123#msg26123
Using 750/400 templaq, large caliber cases stay in the flame for 10-15 seconds. The 400 melt line is 1/4" below the shoulder when the 750 melts and case is dropped. I'm not sure what RPM's the drum is turning the case, but I bet it is slower than those using the drills and sockets. The case cools pretty fast when it is not in the direct flame so it takes some rotations to build up to 750. .223's stay in 6-7 seconds.
greenheadcaller
Beginner
- Jul 8, 2014
- 119
- 0
Nice work Wyo7200! Nice machine
I now use a two torch Bench Source Vertex plumbed to tank and I love it, but with folks like you getting the kinks worked out of the DIY machines .... it would make the decision tougher these days.
Here's another long running thread DIY with a strikingly similar machine. https://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/4340 ... tml&page=1
I now use a two torch Bench Source Vertex plumbed to tank and I love it, but with folks like you getting the kinks worked out of the DIY machines .... it would make the decision tougher these days.
Here's another long running thread DIY with a strikingly similar machine. https://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/4340 ... tml&page=1
