Bedding

Wish I could help you on this one. I've always had my gunsmith do it. One thing I've heard and read over and over is use plenty of release agent on everything. Would not hurt to pillar bed also, but that might just be me, but it would not hurt to do that also.

I'm guessing you are going to fix that .280 AI? It certainly can't hurt to bed it. I feel it gives the rifle the best chance at shooting really well. It should take out any twisting, stresses, or tight spots and make the action fit like a glove if done right. I can imagine that can only promote good grouping. Best of luck.

David
 
I've had really good luck with JB weld. My 25-06 is JB weld from the rear tang to the for end tip, and pillar bedded.. inexpensive and available everwhere
 
I use Marine Tex now, have used Brownells Steel Bed, Acra Gel, Acra Glass and Devcon 1010. All have worked well, I just have come to like how well Marine Tex works.
 
I started with Devcon 10110 and still use it.

I have branched out and now also use the Pro-Bed 2000 from Score Hi Gunsmithing. It is available in black and brown, and it's nice to have the color option. For example, I'm now bedding a stainless rifle in a B&C stock, black with silver webbing. The black Pro-Bed epoxy will visually look just like the black paint of the stock, and make it invisible. It works differently than the Devcon, but that's OK.
 
Thanks guys the 338 is gonna get worked over. She's being temperamental as you saw in the reloading forum. I'm about to pull my hair out. Hope she settles down with this.
 
Jake,

Hope the bedding job will get your 338 where it needs to be.

JD338
 
Jake,
Just make sure you fill all the void in the action and you cannot use too much release agent. I like minwax or turtlewax. Make sure when you relieve any areas in the stock you remove enough so that the epoxy is thick enough to not be brittle. When relieving material make sure you leave material in the keys areas to maintain action position. I like to pillar bed first(creating my witness locations) then evenly removing material and bedding the action in a second operation. Give me a call if you have any questions.

Scott

P.S. I like Accra-gel and Pro-bed.
 
I always use devcon titanium putty. Silly putty, to fill the voids, and kiwi neutral shoe polinsh, as a release agent.
 
Marine Tex, AcraGlas. ( the Marine Tex is thanks to Scotty and it's good stuff)
Neutral shoe polish (paste) for release agent. And you are correct, there is no such thing as too much release agent. :grin: Also make sure you put it in places that you don't think the bedding has a chance of reaching. It'll get there, just sure as heck. :grin:
 
So what your saying is cover the whole stock and action in release agent if you don't want anything there and then cover it again.

Thanks guys I got stuff ordered today along with some new loading blocks. The big kit of Acraglas and an extra quart of release agent. Hopefully nothing gets stuck. What about removing triggers, bolt stops and releases or does that create even more hearache.
 
I tend to bed my rifles in increments. Doing the recoil lug and rear action screw pillar together as a first step. This followed by shooting some load development groups to determine any improvement in groups resulting from this initial step? Then as a second step, testing the addition of a spacer under the forend, in order to evaluate further improvement by increasing forend tip upward pressure and centering.

I am in no great hurry with this because the barrel needs to be broken in initially anyhow prior to assuming that load optimization has been completely evaluated and initiated.
 
Back
Top