Been reading some old post

I have been quilty of pushing things to hard to get top speed. Pretty sure I sold a beautiful rem 700 B&C edtion 270 WSM that "wouldn't shoot" because I was trying to push it to hard. I learned form it. I would rather have under MOA accuracy than top speeds, but I'm going to try several different powders to try to get both. I have never had to beat a bolt open or even blown a primer for that matter.

When I was at the range today I found some 300 WM brass. Primmers were flat as pancakes and two of the four had been pierced, and blown out. I could see where the rim on the head was bent from the bolt being forced open. I could not help but wonder who the hell fires that kind of load more than once :shock:. They are lucky to not be wearing a bolt where their eye used to be!
 
I want my reloads to perform in the velocity department as well as the accuracy department. I use the most accurate load I can find and stick with if as long as I am not showing pressure signs. I am very picky when I reload and I want a safe accurate round that will work when it's 90 degrees out or when it's -30, and I want it to chamber and extract with ease before and after firing.

I find one good load that works perfectly in my particular rifle for the kind of game I am pursuing or the type of shooting I am doing and then I stop. I don't mess around with changing bullet weights a lot and shoot the same bullet for everything I use that rifle for. My 30-06 uses 165 gr. Accubonds and used to shoot Partitions. My .280 Remington used 140 gr. Partitions, 120 gr. Partitions in the 25-06, and 100 gr. Partitions in my 6mm Remington. The only one I'm going to change is the 25-06 as I sure think if the new 110 gr. AccuBond will shoot with some good velocity, that will be a terrific bullet in that rifle for what it is used for!
 
Back
Top