RiverRider
Handloader
- Dec 9, 2008
- 1,450
- 103
Scotty's and dubyam's advice is golden. When I first began using BTE I was getting false positives because of my bronze jag, but I had a hard time believing that eight or ten seconds of contact with the wetted patch was causing it. But I did prove it to myself, and now use a non-bronze jag.
What I like about BTE is that it's not powerless against carbon fouling. I still run a couple of patches soaked in Hoppe's through the bore initially to get the bulk of the carbon out, then I work with BTE and sometimes give it a little help with a nylon brush. Some of my rifles tend to hang on to some jacket fouling so I sometimes finish up removing the remainder of it with Sweet's and a nylon brush, but that's not always necessary.
Like Scotty does, I always finish up by running another two or three Hoppe's-soaked patches through to get any residual BTE or Sweet's out of it and then run two or three dry patches through. I do not use any oil in the bore. I believe the Hoppe's No.9 is sufficient preservative.
What I like about BTE is that it's not powerless against carbon fouling. I still run a couple of patches soaked in Hoppe's through the bore initially to get the bulk of the carbon out, then I work with BTE and sometimes give it a little help with a nylon brush. Some of my rifles tend to hang on to some jacket fouling so I sometimes finish up removing the remainder of it with Sweet's and a nylon brush, but that's not always necessary.
Like Scotty does, I always finish up by running another two or three Hoppe's-soaked patches through to get any residual BTE or Sweet's out of it and then run two or three dry patches through. I do not use any oil in the bore. I believe the Hoppe's No.9 is sufficient preservative.