Bore tech eliminator

[FOTIS]

Who uses this stuff? Is it any good? What is your method of use?

 

[boomer68]

I use it along with BoreTech jags and rods. Works great. Not as potentially messy as Wipeout.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

 

[FOTIS]

I have heard it is the best out there....

 

[JD338]

I have heard nothing but good things as well but I have never tried it....yet.

JD338

 

[DrMike]

I have some Bore Tech products on my test bench, and I still haven't tried them. All that I've heard is positive, however. If they were more commonly available here in Canada, I'd be inclined to test them more quickly.

 

[elkeater2]

Scotty has written before about his method using BTE. I adopted it, and it works well for me. I do exactly as he instructed. I'll try to find the thread, or he'll chime in, or you might find it. But we'll get it pulled back up. OK, here's a quote from Scotty: "RR, I like the stuff a lot. I do not do it per their instructions. I completely soak and patch and soak the bore in it. I continue to hit with soaked patches pushing blue fluid out of the bore until it is gone. I will wait between 15-30 minutes between wet patches in order to let it really soak in and usually if the bores are bad, the patches will come out DARK BLUE. I am not sure it works any better than Montana Copper Killer, but it smells much less and does attack copper. I don't scrub the bore with a brush either.

I think your brass jags are giving you the false positive, since I use the Tipton plated jags, they don't give off any copper signs. It is very good stuff, but it isn't a miracle worker, the only way I see to use any of it is to saturate the bore and keep pushing the copper out. I think you will always get traces, but for the money BTE seems to be the best so far. "

BTW: This thread probably belongs in 'Rifles', I haven't found a use for BTE in reloading :lol: :lol:
EE2

 

[Newysan]

Greetings. So far you are being steered in the right direction. Nickle plated jags get rid of "false " readings and combined with carbon fiber rods give a true indication of the degree of copper fouling. I love watching peoples faces when they see what comes out of their bores. Just makes one wonder how many guns have been dealt/traded away because of a simple problem of copper fouling. Newysan

 

[CatskillCrawler]

I'm sold on BTE. Odorless and it works just as good as any ammonia-based copper removing product on the market. I usually hit the carbon with other bore cleaners first just to get my money's worth out of them and then finish with BTE. The BTE works just as good on carbon but I figure I might as well use up my remaining stock of non-BTE solvents.

I swab the bore with a copious amount of BTE and let it sit while I load. Patch out the results and re-swab until clean. I use a plastic brush to accelerate the process. A moderately fouled barrel will take me 2-3 swab/patch cycles to thoroughly remove all copper and carbon fouling. A heavily fouled barrel may take up to two hrs to clean but it requires no bore paste or caustic odors and there's no risk of etching your barrel from over-exposure.

 

[truck driver]

Scotty and dubyum highly recommend it, though I haven't used it because I can only find it on line and don't want to pay the shipping. One day I'll put together an order that will justify the shipping and get some. :mrgreen:

 

[Kodiak]

I have used it and can say it works real well. Soaking the bore with a patch and letting it set for awhile works best, without the use of any brush.

 

[SJB358]

I have no reason to try anything else. Been using it for a couple of years now, works as good as advertised and doesn't stink. It is a little sticky, so I do run a Hoppe's #9 behind it to clean up anything left behind, but it's great stuff. You'll be amazed when you see the blue pool of fluid being pushed out in front of a wet patch..

 

[Woodycreek]

I use the Bore Tech C4 Carbon Remover and CU+2 Copper Remover. Think the stuff works great along with some Kroil for the real dirty ones.

 

[sask boy]

Sounds like a great product but I have not seen it up here north of the 49th. I think that I will check the new store in town.
Thanks for the heads up as I am always willing to try something new!

Blessings,
Dan

 

[big rifle man]

I have used both the BTE and the copper CU+2. Both products are well worth the money. I do not use anything else.

 

[boomer68]

For us Canadians, you can get BTE from Londeros in Quebec. I use the carbon remover first, then CU+2. BTE by itself works good, but not quite as good on carbon. I highly recommend their jags and cleaning rods.

 

[dubyam]

I use BTE for all my cleaning chores now. I've tried over 20 other solvents and cleaners and this is the best I've used. My method is simple:

1. 3 soaked patches
2. Wait 8-10min
3. 1 soaked patch
4. Wait 8-10min
5. Repeat steps 3 & 4 until the soaked patch comes out clean (no black, blue, or dark grey)
6. Patch dry
7. Oil if you like

I use a Tipton carbon fiber cleaning rod, and Tipton Ultra Jags (nickel plated), but as long as you use a good rod, and some copper free jags, you'll be fine. I haven't had to brush one of my rifle bores in years, since taking on this BTE regimen. I still have brushes that I occasionally use to get the junk out of bores I'm "reclaiming" for other folks. Such is the life of a Rifle Gigolo. The neglected ones often require a bit of work to get back to full performance.

If you haven't ordered it yet, Fotis, order it now. Trust me on this.

 

[Sas874runner]

Supposed to be better than sweets

 

[killdeernow]

Who uses this stuff? Is it any good? What is your method of use?

It is outstanding and you can use it without a respirator.

Tools and method of use are as follows:

• Mike Lucas bore guide
  Dewey cleaning rod
  Put fresh patch on and soak it w/BTE through the channel in the bore guide
  I use wet patches until the patches come out clean
  I leave the bore wet for about 10 minutes
  I then wet another until it comes out clean (lots of blue in this round)
  I then use dry patches until the patch comes out completely dry
  I look w/a flashlight to see if I can spot any copper--If so, I use KG-12 for clean-up (never see copper in a custom barrel after BTE--sometimes I see some in my Win M70 338)
  After I've determined there isn't any copper, I use Kroil or CLP (depending on time of storage) and wet a patch (twice) and push through.
  I then stick a cotton ball in the chamber to keep the oil from leaking down on my stock and put it in the safe

Probably more than you asked for but I take cleaning my investments seriously. Take care,

 

[usmc 89]

The eliminator and the carbon remover is all I use, couple patches with the eliminator and a nylon brush, then a couole with the carbon remover. The carbon remover works well on AR parts and suppressors also.

 

[DON]

I've tried the CU+2 then followed it up with Barnes CR-10, there STILL was copper present no matter how many times I repeated the procedure on the bottle.

Barnes CR-10 doesn't lie or cleaners alike.

Don