I have been shopping for a good brass trimmer and have looked at the forrester, rcbs, lyman, etc. and they all look pretty good with the edge in my mind going to the rcbs? However I bought a sinclair bullet comparator this week and it just came in the mail today with their current catalog (that is going to cost me, damn them!) They have a wilson/sinclair intl. trimmer that looks a lot more precise and comparable in price to the others. Does anyone have any experience with this trimmer? I was going to buy one unless anyone has had any bad experiences with them.
Brass Trimmers?
- Thread starter ldg397
- Start date
Powerstroke
Handloader
- Feb 24, 2006
- 1,792
- 33
Have used the Lyman unit for years. Most come with "some" pilots.
Make sure the .260 ( .264 ) pilot is in there other wise you'll have to order is seperate.
Make sure the .260 ( .264 ) pilot is in there other wise you'll have to order is seperate.
- Thread starter
- #3
Mike Fontaine
Beginner
- Feb 28, 2006
- 129
- 0
I use the Wilson trimmer. Very good for the price but if you're reloading mult. cal then you need different shell holders. The new RCBS trimmers are nice but do not use the standard RCBS shell holders ($$$). Go with the Wilson and lock into a good vice.
Mike
Mike
The Wilson/Sinclair Ultimate Case Trimmer is a very fine product, one you will be happy with.
I have been loading ammo for the better part of 50 years and this tool was one of the very best purchases I have made. The micrometer on the trimmer makes it extremely easy to get the right case length, the first time. The darn thing is amazingly consistant, cases are ALL the correct length.
I used to HATE to trim cases, I tried several other brands of trimmers. Now I do not mind trimming cases, I trimmed 200 new 41 Rem Mag cases over the last couple of days. Something that really helps you to get a consistant crimp on revolver ammo.
I highly recommend the Wilson/Sinclar trimmer.
I have been loading ammo for the better part of 50 years and this tool was one of the very best purchases I have made. The micrometer on the trimmer makes it extremely easy to get the right case length, the first time. The darn thing is amazingly consistant, cases are ALL the correct length.
I used to HATE to trim cases, I tried several other brands of trimmers. Now I do not mind trimming cases, I trimmed 200 new 41 Rem Mag cases over the last couple of days. Something that really helps you to get a consistant crimp on revolver ammo.
I highly recommend the Wilson/Sinclar trimmer.
- Nov 4, 2004
- 24,924
- 7,829
I have a RCBS case trimmer that I have used for 33 yrs.
I think its time for a new one and maybe I will like trimming cases more.Looks like the Wilson/Sinclar trimmer is the way to go.
JD338
I think its time for a new one and maybe I will like trimming cases more.Looks like the Wilson/Sinclar trimmer is the way to go.
JD338
Guy Miner
Master Loader
- Apr 6, 2006
- 17,664
- 5,449
Went to the Wilson some years ago when I started trying to load more accurate ammo for match shooting. Now I use it for all my different cartridges including the big 'ol .45-70. A nicely made piece of gear...
Friends who prefer a faster trimmer have gone with the motorized case prep setup from Gracey.
Friends who prefer a faster trimmer have gone with the motorized case prep setup from Gracey.
I'll add another piece of equipment for consideration.
I don't load mass quantities of ammo at any single sitting. I load lots of cases over a given period of time, but seldom more than 30 or 40 in a session, usually more like 20 at a time. With this said, I've found the most consistent brass trimmer to be the simple Lee lock stud and cutter. You have to use the appropriate shell holder, but there's really only 2 or 3 needed to cover the vast majority of calibers. For example, the #2 holder works for basically everything from .243 right on up thru the non-belted 30 cals.
You lock the shell holder onto the stud, chuck it in a power screwdriver and go to town. The cutter itself is held in the other hand, I like the one with the wooden ball to fit your palm. You screw the appropriate pilot pin into the center of the cutter, it fits the case neck perfectly and has a small pin at the end, like a decapping pin on a die. This pin fits thru the flash hole and bottoms out on the lock stud when you've trimmed to whatever length you want. It's virtually impossible to cut a case too short. You trim away, holding the cutter ball in one hand and the screwdriver in the other until the pilot pin bottoms out and you feel the driver free up, you can tell it isn't cutting any more. The "trimmed to" length will be perfect every time. So much so that I've quit even measuring during a trimming session, just run the whole batch then measure a few samples afterwards. Every one will be spot on.
You may occasionally miss the mark until you get used to the "feel" of the operation, but even then it's no big deal, you've just stopped cutting too soon, chuck it up again and trim it some more.
I honestly don't know that this method is any more time consuming than the other options, if so it's not much slower. I probably wouldn't want to use it if I was running off a couple hundred cases for PD shooting, my arthritic fingers would get sore, but for 20 or 30 or 40 at a time it's well within acceptable time limits. I think it is anyway. I have no idea what a person would use to trim 200 cases.
Best of all, along with being very accurate, it's really cheap. About $4 for the cutter and lock stud, another $3.50 for the palm ball style cutter and $3.50 apiece for the caliber specific length gage/pilot pin. Plus it doesn't take up valuable room on your bench. Everything I need to trim any of a couple dozen different cases, except for the power screwdriver, is held in a small plastic see-thru case like you'd keep a few small fishing lures in, or a gunsmithing screw selection and it fits away in a small drawer under my bench.
A complete setup for trimming a single caliber, like a .223 for example, will cost about $11, minus the screwdriver. Add another $3.50 for each additional caliber and you really don't have much invested. It's well worth giving a try before spending a bunch on some other system which you may not like in the end. I recommend it highly.
Sorry for the long post, but the Lee system is worth reading a few paragraphs for. I'm no Lee loading devotee either, the case trimming system is the only Lee equipment I own.
Oh, after you learn to trust the reliability of the cutter you can go ahead and deburr & chamfer the cases while they're still chucked to the screwdriver, do it all in one operation. It's also good for holding and spinning the cases while you hold a polishing rag to them.
I don't load mass quantities of ammo at any single sitting. I load lots of cases over a given period of time, but seldom more than 30 or 40 in a session, usually more like 20 at a time. With this said, I've found the most consistent brass trimmer to be the simple Lee lock stud and cutter. You have to use the appropriate shell holder, but there's really only 2 or 3 needed to cover the vast majority of calibers. For example, the #2 holder works for basically everything from .243 right on up thru the non-belted 30 cals.
You lock the shell holder onto the stud, chuck it in a power screwdriver and go to town. The cutter itself is held in the other hand, I like the one with the wooden ball to fit your palm. You screw the appropriate pilot pin into the center of the cutter, it fits the case neck perfectly and has a small pin at the end, like a decapping pin on a die. This pin fits thru the flash hole and bottoms out on the lock stud when you've trimmed to whatever length you want. It's virtually impossible to cut a case too short. You trim away, holding the cutter ball in one hand and the screwdriver in the other until the pilot pin bottoms out and you feel the driver free up, you can tell it isn't cutting any more. The "trimmed to" length will be perfect every time. So much so that I've quit even measuring during a trimming session, just run the whole batch then measure a few samples afterwards. Every one will be spot on.
You may occasionally miss the mark until you get used to the "feel" of the operation, but even then it's no big deal, you've just stopped cutting too soon, chuck it up again and trim it some more.
I honestly don't know that this method is any more time consuming than the other options, if so it's not much slower. I probably wouldn't want to use it if I was running off a couple hundred cases for PD shooting, my arthritic fingers would get sore, but for 20 or 30 or 40 at a time it's well within acceptable time limits. I think it is anyway. I have no idea what a person would use to trim 200 cases.
Best of all, along with being very accurate, it's really cheap. About $4 for the cutter and lock stud, another $3.50 for the palm ball style cutter and $3.50 apiece for the caliber specific length gage/pilot pin. Plus it doesn't take up valuable room on your bench. Everything I need to trim any of a couple dozen different cases, except for the power screwdriver, is held in a small plastic see-thru case like you'd keep a few small fishing lures in, or a gunsmithing screw selection and it fits away in a small drawer under my bench.
A complete setup for trimming a single caliber, like a .223 for example, will cost about $11, minus the screwdriver. Add another $3.50 for each additional caliber and you really don't have much invested. It's well worth giving a try before spending a bunch on some other system which you may not like in the end. I recommend it highly.
Sorry for the long post, but the Lee system is worth reading a few paragraphs for. I'm no Lee loading devotee either, the case trimming system is the only Lee equipment I own.
Oh, after you learn to trust the reliability of the cutter you can go ahead and deburr & chamfer the cases while they're still chucked to the screwdriver, do it all in one operation. It's also good for holding and spinning the cases while you hold a polishing rag to them.
- Nov 4, 2004
- 24,924
- 7,829
Ol` Joe":3rc66gcz said:
Yup! Been there, done that. :twisted:
JD338
Good post fellows! I just trimmed for the first time with a lyman trimmer :evil: :evil: I did not like it. If you do not rotate the handle exactly with the exact amount of pressure each and every time you will be off. Setting it up cost me quite a few pieces of brass.
I might try the Lee since I usally load up 20 loads at a time.
I might try the Lee since I usally load up 20 loads at a time.
- Oct 30, 2004
- 24,190
- 2,847
I purchased a RCBS last year upgrading from the Lee hand trimming unit. I like the quick shell holding unit, but I had to shimm the unit to make the cutting head square with the shell holder. I also tried the RCBS neck turning attachment (that is how I found out that the cutter wasn't square) and hated it. Next time I would go with something else for the trimmer and the turner.
Mark.
Mark.
- Thread starter
- #15
bacova":z8k6tbo0 said:
I have the Lee case trimming equipment but the problem seems to be when trimming/squaring new brass for reloading the cases are always too short to work so you have to wait for them to stretch far enough before you can cut them square??? Am I missing something with the Lee?
- Oct 30, 2004
- 24,190
- 2,847
The lee setup is precut at the Min COAL.
I have them for everything I load for to include calibers they do not make these for. I called lee and give them stem diameter (ie .416 ) and the min trim length I want. A week later I have a new custom setup for my 416 WBY.
I have them for everything I load for to include calibers they do not make these for. I called lee and give them stem diameter (ie .416 ) and the min trim length I want. A week later I have a new custom setup for my 416 WBY.
IDG,
You're right, often the pin is a little long, if you have a new case that needs trimming sometimes you can't get it down to recommended "trim to" length. What I do is take the new trimmer gage and a new case, trim the case as far as it'll go, then I just give the tip if the pin a few strokes on the rough side of a sharpening stone and trim again. Keep doing this until I get down to the length I want.
Be carefull, don't grind too much off. A few good strokes will usually take .001 off. I wouldn't recommend using a grinding wheel or anything, you'd almost certainly go too far.
Maybe this would lead you to believe the pin would wear down pretty quick as you trim brass, but it doesn't. Once you've ground it to the prefered lenght it'll stay there.
You're right, often the pin is a little long, if you have a new case that needs trimming sometimes you can't get it down to recommended "trim to" length. What I do is take the new trimmer gage and a new case, trim the case as far as it'll go, then I just give the tip if the pin a few strokes on the rough side of a sharpening stone and trim again. Keep doing this until I get down to the length I want.
Be carefull, don't grind too much off. A few good strokes will usually take .001 off. I wouldn't recommend using a grinding wheel or anything, you'd almost certainly go too far.
Maybe this would lead you to believe the pin would wear down pretty quick as you trim brass, but it doesn't. Once you've ground it to the prefered lenght it'll stay there.
