hellrazor
Beginner
- Dec 31, 2013
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I'll trade the 280 for that...
:mrgreen:
Damn that is nice. How much did that set you back?
:mrgreen:
Damn that is nice. How much did that set you back?
Christmas came a little early for me
- Thread starter tddeangelo
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- #42
tddeangelo
Handloader
- May 18, 2011
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I'm not sure there is a 280 I'd take in trade for this, and Id enjoy a 280 (or for my daughter). 
As for cost, let's put it this way.... I'd have to get a really good price for each of my three pre64 rifles to fund half the cost of this rifle. :shock:
As for cost, let's put it this way.... I'd have to get a really good price for each of my three pre64 rifles to fund half the cost of this rifle. :shock:
hellrazor
Beginner
- Dec 31, 2013
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Figured as much. I was eying up a very nice PA Long Rifle with a tiger stripe stock about 5 years ago and it was over 2big clams when the guy had it made.... 10 years prior.
Going to take the hawken smokepole for a walk after Christmas and see if I can fill a doe tag. Might have to stop up at Dixons to get a flint or 2 this afternoon. Only have one spare left.
Going to take the hawken smokepole for a walk after Christmas and see if I can fill a doe tag. Might have to stop up at Dixons to get a flint or 2 this afternoon. Only have one spare left.
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- #44
tddeangelo
Handloader
- May 18, 2011
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I'm hoping to get there today as well. The flints will probably be well picked over, but there should be a few yet, especially if you use the cut agate type, which works well enough in the TC and Lyman rifles. My lock is bigger than those rifles' locks, so I use the 7/8 size knapped flints.
When you get there, look up on the ceiling hangers. The "good stuff" is up there.
Oh, and if you look at the rifle hanging over the doorway to the back room behind the counter, there's a 62 cal Martin rifle hanging there.
When you get there, look up on the ceiling hangers. The "good stuff" is up there.
Oh, and if you look at the rifle hanging over the doorway to the back room behind the counter, there's a 62 cal Martin rifle hanging there.
- Thread starter
- #45
tddeangelo
Handloader
- May 18, 2011
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Just got back from Dixons. It's busy, but supplies remain. I didn't check the flint situation, but most items were available. Except a 62-cal loading block, dang it. Lol
truck driver
Ammo Smith
- Mar 11, 2013
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Tom get your self of 3/4" walnut board and make your own. even a nice piece of white pin will work.
- Thread starter
- #47
tddeangelo
Handloader
- May 18, 2011
- 2,019
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I thought about it...a 5/8 bit is all I'd need. I'll see what some suitable wood will cost. I can get one patterned after an original at the show in Lewisburg in Feb, though, so I may make do till then....some of the lathe-turned ones are pretty cool.
hellrazor
Beginner
- Dec 31, 2013
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I didn't get there but I did find another flint. So I have 3. Have 1lb of FFG and 1/2 a container of 4F from Dixons. Thought I was down to 10 roundball but found a new box of 100.
You can make one out of almost anything. I have an oak one that is 1.5" x 5.25" x 3/4" that holds 5 50cal. Just need a forstner set to drill them out so it looks purdy.
You can make one out of almost anything. I have an oak one that is 1.5" x 5.25" x 3/4" that holds 5 50cal. Just need a forstner set to drill them out so it looks purdy.
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- #49
tddeangelo
Handloader
- May 18, 2011
- 2,019
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That's my issue, I don't have any suitable wood scrap just now. I have some treated lumber scraps, that's about it, lol.
- Thread starter
- #50
tddeangelo
Handloader
- May 18, 2011
- 2,019
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Scratch that, I just found some pieces of cedar I forgot I had, and in a rare stroke of good luck, they're 0.649" thick, which will work for a loading block. 3/4 would be better. I guess I could get some gorilla glue and laminate two pieces together, then cut to shape/size, and drill? Probably just using one layer is sufficient. I'll put the board in my bag and if the patches protrude a little, that's ok...I'll keep it in an old shot bag to protect the rest of the stuff in my bag from getting greasy.
hellrazor
Beginner
- Dec 31, 2013
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I wouldn't go through the hassles with laminating cedar. Plus I am not sure how long cedar or other soft pine will last. It might splinter after a few reloads. I would use it as is and make or buy a good one later.
You could stop in at HD at cabelas and see if they have any oak cutoffs. Most HD/Lowes have a scrap bin for 1-2' cutoffs that they sell cheap.
Oak, walnut, cherry or other hardwood is preferred.
You could stop in at HD at cabelas and see if they have any oak cutoffs. Most HD/Lowes have a scrap bin for 1-2' cutoffs that they sell cheap.
Oak, walnut, cherry or other hardwood is preferred.
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- #52
tddeangelo
Handloader
- May 18, 2011
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Never thought to ask for cut offs.....
hellrazor
Beginner
- Dec 31, 2013
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They are usually in a bin near the panel saw or chop saw. Some place paint the 1 end yellow and tag a reduced price on it.
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- #54
tddeangelo
Handloader
- May 18, 2011
- 2,019
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Forgot to post these yesterday....
All shot with a 0.600 ball and 0.024" thick pillow ticking, lubed with bear grease, charged with 2F powder. All shot from a bench rest at 50 yards, 6" black bull for the target, 6 o'clock hold.
110gr (1st shot for the day is the one at 12 o'clock)
105gr
100gr (the shot left of the "triangle" as a hang-fire that was my fault)
I cleaned between groups when changing charges, using alcohol, till a fresh dry patch came out nearly totally white. Gave it some time to "breath" as well, to be sure it was dry inside, then started the next charge.
I sort of wonder what 115 and 120gr would do?
The first patch out of the rifle for the day always cuts, then I shot probably 20 more shots over the course of the session...not a one was cut. Dixon's believes it's because it's a new barrel, and it'll ease up with that as I shoot more.
I bought more 600 balls today, as the rifle can hunt as-is. Allen and I have to get together and he's going to flex the barrel to bring it to the "zero" I want (probably 1-2" high at 50, I have to re-check ballistics). For now, it'll do. It's about 7" low at 100 with a 50 yard zero. If I go to a 75 yard zero, it'll be about 2" high at 50 and about 4" low at 100. Drops on targets reflect properly the projected speed from QuickLoad of 1580fps when compared to what that speed should yield for drops at 100 when zeroed at 50.
Remember, 0.600 balls are 324gr. That means this thing is producing a lot of oomph! Recoil is about like a moderate 30-06 load. The long barrel and stock custom fitted to me, with a 1.5-2" wide buttplate all help mitigate felt recoil substantially.
I did buy a bag of 0.610's, though. I'm gonna mess with them and see what I find. I have some 0.015 patches left, plus plenty of 0.024 ticking, so I can mess with them a bit and see what it may or may not like. I think 610's are somewhere around 344gr.
All shot with a 0.600 ball and 0.024" thick pillow ticking, lubed with bear grease, charged with 2F powder. All shot from a bench rest at 50 yards, 6" black bull for the target, 6 o'clock hold.
110gr (1st shot for the day is the one at 12 o'clock)
105gr
100gr (the shot left of the "triangle" as a hang-fire that was my fault)
I cleaned between groups when changing charges, using alcohol, till a fresh dry patch came out nearly totally white. Gave it some time to "breath" as well, to be sure it was dry inside, then started the next charge.
I sort of wonder what 115 and 120gr would do?
The first patch out of the rifle for the day always cuts, then I shot probably 20 more shots over the course of the session...not a one was cut. Dixon's believes it's because it's a new barrel, and it'll ease up with that as I shoot more.
I bought more 600 balls today, as the rifle can hunt as-is. Allen and I have to get together and he's going to flex the barrel to bring it to the "zero" I want (probably 1-2" high at 50, I have to re-check ballistics). For now, it'll do. It's about 7" low at 100 with a 50 yard zero. If I go to a 75 yard zero, it'll be about 2" high at 50 and about 4" low at 100. Drops on targets reflect properly the projected speed from QuickLoad of 1580fps when compared to what that speed should yield for drops at 100 when zeroed at 50.
Remember, 0.600 balls are 324gr. That means this thing is producing a lot of oomph! Recoil is about like a moderate 30-06 load. The long barrel and stock custom fitted to me, with a 1.5-2" wide buttplate all help mitigate felt recoil substantially.
I did buy a bag of 0.610's, though. I'm gonna mess with them and see what I find. I have some 0.015 patches left, plus plenty of 0.024 ticking, so I can mess with them a bit and see what it may or may not like. I think 610's are somewhere around 344gr.
hellrazor
Beginner
- Dec 31, 2013
- 98
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Hope it isn't messing up your patches when loading. I would zero at 75 if you stick with the current charge weight. Longest shot I made on a deer was 120ish so I have my 50 sighted in dead on at 100.
- Thread starter
- #56
tddeangelo
Handloader
- May 18, 2011
- 2,019
- 2
It's possible there's a cut happening when loading, but it only happens with the first shot and not again. I talked with Greg and Chuck Dixon about it. Both felt strongly it wasn't anything to get too worried about.
truck driver
Ammo Smith
- Mar 11, 2013
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Tom, I was just wondering if you were fouling the barrel after cleaning prior to shooting? I would always place a small charge of powder in the barrel with out a ball and and touch it off before loading with powder and ball that way my first shot was all ways the same poi as the second and no fliers. I saw were your first shot was higher then the second that's why I ask.
- Thread starter
- #58
tddeangelo
Handloader
- May 18, 2011
- 2,019
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Rodger, that's why I was cleaning before trying another powder charge. I wanted to see if the other charges would throw the first shot high. Granted, cleaning with alcohol on an assembled rifle is not the same as a full on clean, but I had it to the point that a dry patch came out with just the faintest marks on it. Then I'd run another charge.
I'm going to shoot today with 105gr 2F to start, to see if it throws the first one high again.
I also got some 610 balls to try.
I'm leaning toward hunting with the 105gr load, but I want to try a few other things before finalizing that. Mostly, I want to go up in charge weight above 110, but not terribly far. Probably 125 at the very most. My powder measure only goes to 120, so I'll have to measure two charges to get over 120, lol. I figured 125-130 max is as far as I wish to go. Recoil really isn't a problem with this rifle. It moves me a bit, but it's sure not anything close to being objectionable. I had heard how bad the recoil would be once I got over 100gr. It is very easy on the shoulder. Perhaps those who had hard recoil experiences with 62's had used them in shorter/lighter rifles.
I'm going to shoot today with 105gr 2F to start, to see if it throws the first one high again.
I also got some 610 balls to try.
I'm leaning toward hunting with the 105gr load, but I want to try a few other things before finalizing that. Mostly, I want to go up in charge weight above 110, but not terribly far. Probably 125 at the very most. My powder measure only goes to 120, so I'll have to measure two charges to get over 120, lol. I figured 125-130 max is as far as I wish to go. Recoil really isn't a problem with this rifle. It moves me a bit, but it's sure not anything close to being objectionable. I had heard how bad the recoil would be once I got over 100gr. It is very easy on the shoulder. Perhaps those who had hard recoil experiences with 62's had used them in shorter/lighter rifles.
truck driver
Ammo Smith
- Mar 11, 2013
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Something else to think about is if 3F would give you a more consistent even burn. Unlike smokeless powder black powder burns at the same rate no matter what the granular. The smaller granular just ignites easier which gives it a faster burn rate. I know that sounds like a contradiction but I'm not a chemist and black powder is all formulated the same.
When the first snow arrives an old trick to learn maximum powder charge is to shoot over fresh snow and look for unburnt powder on the snow. It will tell you the maximum load that fully burns in your barrel and which load your wasting powder with. I guess you could take one of the wife's straight bed sheets and spread it on the ground in front of your shooting position to see how it works but I don't think the wife would like it when she has to wash it. :lol: A white tarp would also work , be sure it is a calm day so you can catch the powder. :mrgreen:
When the first snow arrives an old trick to learn maximum powder charge is to shoot over fresh snow and look for unburnt powder on the snow. It will tell you the maximum load that fully burns in your barrel and which load your wasting powder with. I guess you could take one of the wife's straight bed sheets and spread it on the ground in front of your shooting position to see how it works but I don't think the wife would like it when she has to wash it. :lol: A white tarp would also work , be sure it is a calm day so you can catch the powder. :mrgreen:
hellrazor
Beginner
- Dec 31, 2013
- 98
- 0
I thought you used an elbedritschel's burlap bag to catch unburned powder?
:mrgreen:
You could use a duplex load too. Not my favorite thing to mess with but some 4F with 2F over it always can make thing go better depending on the weather.
:mrgreen:
You could use a duplex load too. Not my favorite thing to mess with but some 4F with 2F over it always can make thing go better depending on the weather.
