Extreme Cold/Extreme Heat

Europe

Handloader
Jun 18, 2014
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interesting thread on a different forum and I thought it would be interesting to hear what you fellows say about this

extreme cold like 20 degrees below zero or more creates several possible problems, but the one issue I wanted to ask here. Do you hunt with your rifle dry and if not what lubricant do you use ?

extreme heat, like hunting on the equator in Africa. I believe it is prudent to take every precaution when hunting dangerous game and therefore all my rifles must have CRF actions. The heat and dust on the equator is brutal and therefore when the rifle is shot, especially with a caliber that creates a lot of pressure, extracting the round can be a problem. I said " can be"--not "will be" but "can be" when hunting DG, is enough for me and therefore a CRF action is my preference

What say you
 
Well my coldest hunt was tis last December. It was 6 above zero according to the temp reading in the guide's truck. On hunts where it can get cold, I use an oil that's rated to -40*F. It was for lubing machine guns on high altitude bombers. Heck it might have even been World War Two issue. The guy at the military surplus store don't know either. If I didn't have it, they'd run dry with graphite or moly for a lubrication

Here in Tucson,I believe summer conditions are close to African hunting regarding heat, dust and dirt. I use different rifles for those hunts and they're dry with a bit of graphite dust for lubrication.

FWIW, all my "custom" hunting rifles are controlled feed, based on FN and Oberndorf Mausers. I have a couple of .308s based on Steyr Mausers. They just plain work. (y)
Paul B.
 
For the extremes I use some light oils. I've never hunted extremes like that. I've hunted enough that I've worried about triggers freezing more than my bolt locking up though.
 
Never hunted in extremely hot weather. Perhaps 30 C is the hottest temps I ever hunted. I have hunted when it was -35 C. I wipe the bolt dry after spraying with G96 following practise. I've never had a problem shooting in cold weather.
 
I have had a rifle experience a slow firing pin drop during cold weather and cause a miss fire... a second cartridge fired just fine. It was a second hand gun and when I stripped it there was bunch of old goopy old oil in the bolt and other internals. A quick scrub and it was good to go.

I typically run a bolt action dry... my "go to" gun is cerakoted with "micro slick" coating on the internals. Not sure how much it helps but the gun doesn't get oiled and performs great no matter the temp.

On a bolt action, it's hard to see how lube really does much other than protect the metal from rusting. In the Interior and in deep cold conditions, it's typically very dry and corrosion is minimal at best.

I picked up some "Frog Lube" for my automatic shotgun...at cold temps it gets very sluggish.
 
I don't worry too much about extreme heat. All of my quality lubes cover that. I do take care in extreme cold, using greases rated for the temp. I also keep the rifle cold and not let it get warm and then take it outside if there's a chance of it freezing.
 
In Alaska during the hay day of hunting Polar Bears, (1960's) most of the guides hunted out of Kotzebue or Tellar on the west coast . They flew over towards the Russian side where the bigger bears were, temps in the 20/30 below F, were the norm, everyone had problems with exactly what Hodgeman discribes in his post.
The standard method that was adopted for that problem, was the guides all took the clients rifle the first day in camp, and then disassembled the bolts ( usually loaded with grease, or some kinda gun oil) and promptly droped them into a coffee can of av gas!!!
(Red 80 Octane in those days) after soaking all nite to remove any trace of whatever was inside the bolt or fireing pins, they were whiped down and dryed, then they applyed dry graphite lightly to the fireing pin surface only and reinstalled it. They NEVER had a problem down to 65 below zero with that method. I had a buddy give me some kinda synthetic oil one time , it was soposed to be used a compressors were it could be exposed to extreme low temps , I asked old Ward Gay if he thought it would
Work, he said maybe???, But I know the graphite does! (y)
 
My dad used the same trick when we lived at Ft. Wainwright in the early sixties. Seems like it was a common problem for the G.I.s coming up from the lower 48.
If it gets real cold up elk hunting I keep my rifle in the truck to avoid condensation forming in the tent on the rifle. Not sure it's necessary though.
 
Dr Mike, Earle and Hodgeman have nailed it----keep it simple, keep it dry, even use it "dry"

Extreme heat ????????????? not a clue

Dr Mike, Earle, Hodgeman and any and all others, we have a battery operated hair dryer that we use when hunting in the cold, have you guys tried this or is it too girly ( we also have a heat gun, which is probably better suited for you guys (-; )
 
If I have a battery powered hair dryer, my hair would never get cut! :shock: Then, again, I'd never be able to get Gil going in the mornings as he'd spend all his time curling his hair. :mrgreen:

Actually, a pretty Skookum idea, Cheyenne.
 
Not much I can add, keep it dry, graphite lube used sparingly, avoid temperature swings if possible.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
yukon huntress":21njry2w said:
we have a battery operated hair dryer that we use when hunting in the cold, have you guys tried this or is it too girly

I've thawed a rifle action out with the exhaust of a snow machine once....a battery operated hair dryer would have been way easier.
 
I hunt Pheasant's & Coyotes just about ever year in temps below zero. Rifles I have disassembled bolts and lubed with Rem Oil and wiped dry. Same thing for Praire Dog hunting in South Dakota in higher temps.
I run my 1100 & 11-87 Remington Autos Dry just like the manufacture says on the action tube. I spray trigger group and action spring with Rem Oil and wiped Dry. This works for me ever year Duck Hunting in the teens to below zero Pheasant Hunting. I never have any problems with my Remington Autos they just work. I also clean and lube the same when shooting Trap to 100F.
The only thing I have ever had happen with my Rifles is a Model 70 had the Safety freeze in wet snow it would fire just could not put or engage safety. This happened in Montana Deer Hunting and surprised me as I have hunted a lot coyote hunting with a Remington 700 and never had this happen. So I guess having the safety less exposed helps.
 

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I have hunted predators and pulled security detail down to 40 below. It is very important to get all old grease and crud out of your bolt. The coffee can full of gas will work well. I disassemble mine each year in the early fall and hose down thoroughly with starting fluid, then blow dry with compressed air. I give them a light coat of LPS 1 penetrating oil, reassemble and forget until spring when they get a treatment of heavier oil to limit dust infiltration.

I will give my boltguns a light coat of Polaris brand lithium chassis grease on the lugs and rails to prevent seizing if snow infiltrates the action. This grease performs to extreme low temps.
 
Extreme cold-Dry as a bone.

Extreme heat like I experienced in Africa-never use a hot load-load down. They work just the same without issues.
 
I have never hunted in extreme heat but it does get in the mid 20C but as far as extreme cold I have many times hunted at -35 with a 30 mph wind :wink:.
We hunt with our bolts dry & then as DrMike we wipe them down with G96 after finishing for the day.

Blessings,
Dan
 
When we used to hunt wolves in the winter time out in the Alaska Range, sometimes when we ran into bad weather trying to get back thru the passes, and it was getting dark, we had to land and stay in a small tent.
I had a really good Eddie Bauer sleeping bag that was good to -20 or so . Lots of guys sleep in their boots; but
I never could; So always took them off. Of course they were -20 in the morning and I found that getting into them without some form of preheating was trickier than keeping the rifle working correctly! :lol: If we could get to a trappers cabin then everything was hunky dory, as we simply drained the oil out of the engines into a metal gas can and even if it was -30 the next morning if you warmed the oil up hot on the woodstove and then dumped it into the engine it would drive the hoar frost right out of the motor and you could pull the prop thru by hand 8/10 times and the engine would start right up. If the motor was wore out and had poor compression the old trick was to have your pardner stand right in front of the air filter and as you cranked the engine , spray some either right thru the blades into the air filter direct into the carburetor! That would lite it up! Hard on the piston and rings; but it would get you going! The guns were easy, the plane was much harder. :shock:
 
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