Handgun reloading, dumb question.

[Slimfinn]

So what do you do when working up a handgun load? Same as a rifle with a ladder test? What are the pressure signs in a revolver?
I've typicaly just been plinking and shooting steel, I would take a safe load between min and max and use that, or 38+p in a 357.
Now I have the garmin and want to get more serious and work up some possible hunting loads.

 

[SJB358]

SF, for me, I typically just use book data and a powder I have. You won't typically see pressure on handgun rounds since most are 20K lbs less than a rifle cartridge, give or take. I shoot them for accuracy usually by the cylinder full. I will peek at QL to see what it says but most pistol data is pretty good. All that is for revolver type stuff.

If you're talking single shot pistol, then you're closer to traditional rifle reloading at that point.

 

[trapper10]

If you find extraction of the spent cases is snug, back down, you have reached the limit.

 

[JD338]

I have worked up loads in single shot pistols the same as a rifle with success. For revolvers, I've always tried to stay under a Max load. Usually using the most accurate powder listed in the Nosler RG and had pretty good results.
H110 240 gr bullets work great in my S&W 629 Classic so I never played around with other powders. This group is at 50 yards off sand bags.

JD338

 

[Guy Miner]

A 38/357 is so doggone great to own, load and shoot! I just tumbled, deprimed and resized a coffee can full of 38 cases yesterday. Will be loading them for target practice soon. I shoot the revolvers a lot in the winter as the cases go where I want them instead of burying themselves in the snow, not to be seen until April.

You're not likely to see any over-pressure if you keep it under max published loads. Like Trapper10 said, if extraction gets sticky, you've pushed too hard for your particular revolver. BTW, what are you shooting?

When I'm working up a new load for any revolver, not just the 38's or 357's, I start fairly low within published data and try strings of five or six shots at 10 or 15 yards initially. I'll bump up a bit at a time. Somewhere along the way I'll find a load that the gun and I can shoot better than the others. It may be a max load or a bit under that. I'll then start trying it at 25 and 50 yards.

H110 and W296 are worthy of respect. They can generate excellent velocity and accuracy. They have a tight window,

148 gr HBWC is a time-honored target bullet. Can be amazingly accurate and light recoiling with a modest charge of fast burning powder like Bullseye or W231.

158 gr SWC is a good all-around bullet for both the 38 and the 357. Dispatches small game handily.

The JHP's... 125 - 158 grain are standard. Your revolver may prefer one over the others.

The 170 & 180 grain bullets have tremendous penetration.

I've shot some small game over the years with my 38's and 357's but never hunted deer with them.

Nosler has some excellent 357 data and I've found that their accuracy loads work well for me too:

 

[Guy Miner]

I have worked up loads in single shot pistols the same as a rifle with success. For revolvers, I've always tried to stay under a Max load. Usually using the most accurate powder listed in the Nosler RG and had pretty good results.
H110 240 gr bullets work great in my S&W 629 Classic so I never played around with other powders. This group is at 50 yards off sand bags.

JD338

Great shooting Jim!

 

[Slimfinn]

BTW, what are you shooting?

The ones I am looking to load up to more of a "ful house" type would be 357 w/158 or 180 xtp in a 6" ruger GP100, 41 Mag 210gr deepcurl/xtp in a S&W 657 4" Mountain Gun. Also have a 500 S&W and some 350gr xtp this one I am more looking for shootablilty with enough power for whitetails to start, and progress from there. I do have some cast as well but havent messed with those at all.
The others revolvers I have are 357's - S&W 686+ 4" & Kimber DASA 3". Ruger Single 7 birdshead in 327

 

[TexasLife]

shooting in a revolver and semi auto will act differently. i know this as my 44mag revolver loads are way hot for my desert eagle. still start low and work up as case separation might show/happen before blown primer (my 10mm is an example). revolver loads that get above pressure or near top might be tough to eject.

 

[trapper10]

I have worked up loads in single shot pistols the same as a rifle with success. For revolvers, I've always tried to stay under a Max load. Usually using the most accurate powder listed in the Nosler RG and had pretty good results.
H110 240 gr bullets work great in my S&W 629 Classic so I never played around with other powders. This group is at 50 yards off sand bags.

JD338

I love my M29 too! Have had good results with AA#9 under a Kieth 215 Grain Lyman. Took a huge Razorback with it. After I hit the shoulder, He turned and came at me. I emptied the clyinder via double actIon to stop him. Fun times !

 

[PJGunner]

I load for the .357mag using my home case 158 gr. gas checked semi-wadcutters. (Lyman #335856) Powder of choice is Alliant 2400. I use 14.0 gr. mixed brass with Winchester small pistol primers. I believe some manuals consider that a max load. At one time the max load was 15.5 gr. of Hercules 2400. When Hercules stopped making powers for reloader Alliant took over. I can't say that the Hercules was slower burning than the Alliant version but can say that recoil was noticeably less with the Alliant loading.
I always like using 5.0 gr. of Unique with the same 158 gr. bullet mentioned for a working load in the .38 Spl. and either 2.7 gr. Bullseye or 3.1 gr. W231 with the 148 gr. wadcutter for target and plinking. Bullet is my home case #358495 with only the bottom groove lubed. Very accurate in the .38 Spl. and fair to decent accuracy from .357 mag. handguns. Adult beverage cans quiver in fear from my S&W M28.
The problem these days is finding 2400, Unique and Bullseye as Alliant who makes all three has suspended sale of cannister powders to the public in order to complete military and government contracts. I guess we peons don't count.
Paul B.

 

[300WSM]

The ones I am looking to load up to more of a "ful house" type would be 357 w/158 or 180 xtp in a 6" ruger GP100, 41 Mag 210gr deepcurl/xtp in a S&W 657 4" Mountain Gun. Also have a 500 S&W and some 350gr xtp this one I am more looking for shootablilty with enough power for whitetails to start, and progress from there. I do have some cast as well but havent messed with those at all.
The others revolvers I have are 357's - S&W 686+ 4" & Kimber DASA 3". Ruger Single 7 birdshead in 327

Nice collection...

Ladder testing in repeating handguns...


You'll never see accuracy (like a rifle) out of a platform like those you mentioned.
Load some up...
Shoot.
If accurate enough rock-n-roll
If not change bullet weight before actual bullet.
In those platforms accuracy is limited and I promise you bullet weight will make a difference before changing bullet type.

Example most of my Anaconda/Redhawks etc

Love 300 grain bullets over 240.
But not all. Some like the 240 better.

Doesn't matter Nosket JHP or XTP Hornady
..

 

[300WSM]

I love my M29 too! Have had good results with AA#9 under a Kieth 215 Grain Lyman. Took a huge Razorback with it. After I hit the shoulder, He turned and came at me. I emptied the clyinder via double actIon to stop him. Fun times !

And then i threw my cold steal spear and saved us both as that put him down.

Then we woke up.

For real though that's a cool story.

I bet that got your adrenaline going

 

[300WSM]

shooting in a revolver and semi auto will act differently. i know this as my 44mag revolver loads are way hot for my desert eagle. still start low and work up as case separation might show/happen before blown primer (my 10mm is an example). revolver loads that get above pressure or near top might be tough to eject.

I found that even when cases are out of the same weapon full length resizing helped with the sticky case issue

 

[TexasLife]

I found that even when cases are out of the same weapon full length resizing helped with the sticky case issue

It wasn't that as it's was liad developed for the 629 then shotin the de. What's hot in 1 might not be in another issue on not ejecting. I fl size every single case even if it's used in the same firearm. Just my reloading preference and what's worked for me. I down an annealer or have neck bushings. I ever trim pistol brass as I've read several people don't. It wasn't until '14 before I had more than firearm that was chambered in the same cartridge. That's 30 years after I started reloading. I read how so many people reload differently than I, but I haven't found any reason to change. Ymmv

 

[Slimfinn]

Thanks for all of the feedback guys,
Looks like I will, Load- Shoot -Repeat

 

[Slimfinn]

Nice collection...

Thanks, think I missed 1 or 2

 

[trapper10]

When you get out and hunt extensively, dreams become reality! Thats my experience.

And then i threw my cold steal spear and saved us both as that put him down.

Then we woke up.

For real though that's a cool story.

I bet that got your adrenaline going

 

[300WSM]

It wasn't that as it's was liad developed for the 629 then shotin the de. What's hot in 1 might not be in another issue on not ejecting. I fl size every single case even if it's used in the same firearm. Just my reloading preference and what's worked for me. I down an annealer or have neck bushings. I ever trim pistol brass as I've read several people don't. It wasn't until '14 before I had more than firearm that was chambered in the same cartridge. That's 30 years after I started reloading. I read how so many people reload differently than I, but I haven't found any reason to change. Ymmv

Absolutely...
If it's safe, do whatever works for you.