Load development for hunting rifle

cjmac

Beginner
Mar 24, 2026
141
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So I had a box of Sierra Game King boat tail soft point that I use in one of my hunting rifles decided to try it in my wifes gun a ruger gen 2 308 . It was OK , the orange dot to the left is 1.5 in so I guess it's not too bad for a factory hunting rifle ? Was 100 yards.
but I'm more concerned with a consistent cold bore shot . How would I develop a load for a consistent cold bore shot ?
 

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What is your typical max distance for hunting big game?
Do you zero your rifles at 100 yards?
If so, you may need to come down 1 click (If you have 1/4 MOA turrets).
If you are going to use that load for hunting, then adjust your wind turret to the left to where it is centered up.

How many rounds through the barrel since you cleaned it last?

If the round count is not high like over 50-75, I would first get your zero adjusted.

Then go out several times and fire one shot on a new target. Take that target home, and bring it back next time, and fire one shot. Do this three or so times, and look where the center of your group would be. That is your cold bore zero.
You may or may not need to adjust it a tad after this.
 
What is your typical max distance for hunting big game?
Do you zero your rifles at 100 yards?
If so, you may need to come down 1 click (If you have 1/4 MOA turrets).
If you are going to use that load for hunting, then adjust your wind turret to the left to where it is centered up.

How many rounds through the barrel since you cleaned it last?

If the round count is not high like over 50-75, I would first get your zero adjusted.

Then go out several times and fire one shot on a new target. Take that target home, and bring it back next time, and fire one shot. Do this three or so times, and look where the center of your group would be. That is your cold bore zero.
You may or may not need to adjust it a tad after this.
Our max distance is 100 yards . I cleaned the barrel about 15 rounds ago . This was the best group I was able to get while keeping the bullets seated to magazine length. Unfortunately I only get about one day a week to go to the range do you think that letting the barrel cool for 30 minutes or so per shot would give a relative good idea of a cold bore shot?
 
Then go out several times and fire one shot on a new target. Take that target home, and bring it back next time, and fire one shot. Do this three or so times, and look where the center of your group would be. That is your cold bore zero.
☝️This
At your max distance of a 100yds any of 5 shots in your group is good once your zero is set.
Can’t tell what the charge is but 43.3grs of Varget works well in my 308’s with 150s. Not speedy just consistent.
 
Our max distance is 100 yards . I cleaned the barrel about 15 rounds ago . This was the best group I was able to get while keeping the bullets seated to magazine length. Unfortunately I only get about one day a week to go to the range do you think that letting the barrel cool for 30 minutes or so per shot would give a relative good idea of a cold bore shot?
If you never kill game beyond 100 yards (Also have a 100 yard zero), just adjust your windage knob LEFT, Assuming .25 MOA per click (Approximately 1/4" movement per click at 100 yards), after you have measured the center of your group to the bull...Guessing around 5-6 clicks left (If 1/4 MOA clicks).
I would come down one click.
Don't clean your rifle-It's fine.

Make your adjustments, then shoot a shot.
Put your rifle in the shade or in a air conditioned vehicle and to your best ability get it to cool completely. Once there, make your second shot...Rinse and Repeat:)
Get 4-5 shots total if possible.
Find the center of your group

If you want to refine it even more, move to your field rest you actually shoot from/hunt from, and see what kind of groups you get at 100 yards. Your group may be larger, which is okay.

I am not suggesting you do this below, as it would probably bug you to death...
IF, 100 yards is the maximum distance you kill game, you could literally aim 1" left and make a perfect shot for the rest of your life, as the vitals are much larger than the sub 1/2" you would be off from the center...The animal will never know the difference.
 
Rifles are individuals...
Some do better with a clean barrel, while others perform better with a fouled barrel.
Only range testing will show you what your rifle prefers!

While your maximum range is 100 yards, this may not be a big of an issue as it would be or those competing and or shooting at long range..but I get it...having confidence in your rifle/scope/ammo combo produces better results in the field!

This is what I was taught, and it has worked for me.
Please note that I am just a hunter that enjoys this past time, and neither competes or has the experience of the more accomplished shooters above.


Clean the barrel, and then fire a group of 3.
(While it does not mimic field conditions for quick follow up shots, I always shoot groups with at least two minutes between shots to keep barrel from getting hot. Initially, we are looking for accuracy performance, where we have removed as many variables as we can. We can test for field conditions where the two follow up shots come more quickly.)
Let barrel cool completely, and then shoot another group.
Let cool completely, and then shoot another group.
Compare groups sizes. If the groups get larger, with each group, it may be because it prefers a clean barrel.

Clean barrel thoroughly, and repeat process a couple more times.
Are the results repeating? Showing a trend?
If they consistently get smaller, it may be because it prefers a fouled barrel for that cold bore shot.
And again, if they consistently get larger, it prefers the clean barrel for that cold bore shot.

You can repeat the process from field positions (sitting, kneeling, prone, off sticks and daypacks, etc.), with less time between shots in the groups (but of varying timeframes), to mimic hunting scenarios. Mix up the targets; steel, deer cutouts or pictures, etc.
Will that first, cold bore shot be where you want it, on the target, every time?
This will let you, and your wife, gain more familiarity and confidence in shooting from various positions so that when the opportunity comes in the field, muscle memory will take over and let you perform to expectations.

Best of luck in your quest!

While this burns more ammo, it produces more familiarity and confidence in your firearm and its trigger. Plus, it is just plain fun!
 
I don’t see the problem. Adjust your turret -I wouldn’t even touch the elevation on it if it was me. Then and go kill a deer. Even at 200 you will still put all your shots inside a softball-which coincidentally is the size of a deers heart. At 300 you are still inside -well you get the point. Either you are overthinking this or I am not
Understanding the question.
Great bullet, I killed my biggest whitetail with one years ago
 
Lots of good information shared with you. As is, any of those five shots will fit into that orange dot so that is good to know from first to last shot. Just adjust to point of aim. I'm just curious but looking at the load data on the target it shows 43grs Varget. Did you try any other powder weights? Usually for me 45-46grs Varget with 150gr bullets work well for me in my 308. Let us know how it works out for you.
 
I’d just add. Some scopes need a shot to settle. After you adjust the scope. You might want to to tap the rings(not the scope!). Scopes have a spring on the oppsote sides of the adjustment turrets. Tightening the turrets the spring is compressed. Loosening the turret screw releases the pressure … there in comes the problem… shock of a shot can make a tired weak spring shift the point of aim…
If you have a bargain priced scope… tapping the rings might help it hold POA after. The guy that taught me that had a wooden handle he’d tap the rings. Not the scope… not the turret.

I run the risk of starting a long discussion about scope experiences… I have several mid range scope ($350-500) that sometimes don’t stop moving for a couple
Shots. Chasing a cold zero can drive you crazy. Trust the adjustment. Tap it out.
I do have one scope that’s marked 1/4”@100, but it really moves closer to 1/2”/click possibly a manufacturer defect… putting wrong dial on the scope.. ie mrads bs MOA.
 
I guess one more comment. You said you cleaned it 15 shots ago. Is it clean clean?
Did you remove copper fouling? I only bring that up because I bought a use 270 win Model 70. Best I could get was about 1.5”…. Then had a new barrel for another gun and used the breakin cleaning process on the old 270… voila… 1/2” at 100… same loads… used that on 3030 now 3/4” vs 2”.
Using KG product KG2 or CR10(Barnes). Lots of brush strokes with a good Nylon brush, then a bore cleaner follow by a lightly oiled patch.
 
Our max distance is 100 yards . I cleaned the barrel about 15 rounds ago . This was the best group I was able to get while keeping the bullets seated to magazine length. Unfortunately I only get about one day a week to go to the range do you think that letting the barrel cool for 30 minutes or so per shot would give a relative good idea of a cold bore shot?

I know you said your range time is limited ,and all shots would be at 100 yards max . but here is something I have done , and you could try .

a couple of years , I had carried one target along on all my range trips , and only put one shot on it each range visit . that would be the " cold bore shot ", that also would be the " cold shooter shot " . I always hung this target at what I thought would be my max hunting distance . in a few months time , the target will tell if this is actually my max distance . some of these shots were fouled barrel shots , others were clean bore shots . this target will open your eyes . it will either boost your confidence , or show you need to rethink / redo , things .

for you , take a target and only put that first shot on it . always hang that target at 100 yards . after 6 , 8 , or more range visits , this target will show you where your cold bore shots are landing , and if it's grouping the cold bore shots . you could also have the #2 target and put shots 2 and 3 on it , to see where the follow up shots are landing . this #2 target could be good , "IF" the cold bore shot is much different than the follow up shots . will get your attention on where to set the scope .
 
I’d just add. Some scopes need a shot to settle. After you adjust the scope. You might want to to tap the rings(not the scope!). Scopes have a spring on the oppsote sides of the adjustment turrets. Tightening the turrets the spring is compressed. Loosening the turret screw releases the pressure … there in comes the problem… shock of a shot can make a tired weak spring shift the point of aim…
If you have a bargain priced scope… tapping the rings might help it hold POA after. The guy that taught me that had a wooden handle he’d tap the rings. Not the scope… not the turret.

I run the risk of starting a long discussion about scope experiences… I have several mid range scope ($350-500) that sometimes don’t stop moving for a couple
Shots. Chasing a cold zero can drive you crazy. Trust the adjustment. Tap it out.
I do have one scope that’s marked 1/4”@100, but it really moves closer to 1/2”/click possibly a manufacturer defect… putting wrong dial on the scope.. ie mrads bs MOA.
Truth!
 
I’d just add. Some scopes need a shot to settle. After you adjust the scope. You might want to to tap the rings(not the scope!). Scopes have a spring on the oppsote sides of the adjustment turrets. Tightening the turrets the spring is compressed. Loosening the turret screw releases the pressure … there in comes the problem… shock of a shot can make a tired weak spring shift the point of aim…
If you have a bargain priced scope… tapping the rings might help it hold POA after. The guy that taught me that had a wooden handle he’d tap the rings. Not the scope… not the turret.

I run the risk of starting a long discussion about scope experiences… I have several mid range scope ($350-500) that sometimes don’t stop moving for a couple
Shots. Chasing a cold zero can drive you crazy. Trust the adjustment. Tap it out.
I do have one scope that’s marked 1/4”@100, but it really moves closer to 1/2”/click possibly a manufacturer defect… putting wrong dial on the scope.. ie mrads bs MOA.
What I was first taught was similar, although it was to rap the turret 2 or 3 times with your knuckle, so that it wasn't a harsh metallic rap on the housing, or scope internals, after making any adjustments.
Hadn't heard of rapping the rings, but interesting concept, that may have been for same desired results.
But all adjustments out were to go a couple on clicks past and then back in to desired adjustment setting so that you were always compressing the spring back in to place to mitigate any chance of its wanting to settle during recoil after releasing tension on it.
A practice I still employ today!
Seems to work as I have never seen any shifting after adjustment over the years.
 
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