So, I am fairly new to reloading and was curious how you guys go about developing loads for your rifles. Once you have decided on what bullets you would like to shoot and find recepies, how do you go about finding the right powder, charge weight, etc. In the past I have loaded a couple 3 round lots to test, but have been reading about ladder tests. How do you do it?
Load development
- Thread starter UD77
- Start date
- Oct 30, 2004
- 24,190
- 2,850
WELCOME to the forum.
After handloading for so many years I can tell you that there are certain combinations that work better in some cartridges. For example the 4350 series of powders and the 30-06 go together like pie and ice cream! Same can be said about the 7mm rem mag and RL22 and the 300 Win mag and RL22 or H4831. Now this is not written in stone but more likely than not you will find something that works well in your gun. Some of these are outlined in loading manuals and highlighted as *most accurate, or gave best accuracy. Once you decide on bullet and powder start low work up slow. If still not satisfied wth your accuracy take the best load and start altering seating depth.
Anyway whole volumes have been written on this subject. Luckily you're among very knowledgeable people who can shave hours or days off your work.
After handloading for so many years I can tell you that there are certain combinations that work better in some cartridges. For example the 4350 series of powders and the 30-06 go together like pie and ice cream! Same can be said about the 7mm rem mag and RL22 and the 300 Win mag and RL22 or H4831. Now this is not written in stone but more likely than not you will find something that works well in your gun. Some of these are outlined in loading manuals and highlighted as *most accurate, or gave best accuracy. Once you decide on bullet and powder start low work up slow. If still not satisfied wth your accuracy take the best load and start altering seating depth.
Anyway whole volumes have been written on this subject. Luckily you're among very knowledgeable people who can shave hours or days off your work.
DrMike
Ballistician
- Nov 8, 2006
- 37,190
- 5,660
UD77,
POP gave you some excellent advice. Almost every reloading manual published by reputable manufacturers of bullets and/or powders make recommendations of which powders worked best in their tests. Their recommendation is always a good starting place. After that, ask some people that have a bit of experience.
POP gave you some excellent advice. Almost every reloading manual published by reputable manufacturers of bullets and/or powders make recommendations of which powders worked best in their tests. Their recommendation is always a good starting place. After that, ask some people that have a bit of experience.
Desert Fox
Handloader
- Aug 14, 2006
- 1,965
- 3
I don't subscribe to ladder test. To me it's a waste of bullet and powder. Like Pop and DrMike said, you can start by comparing data from severals reloading manual and you will soon notice that a commonality will emerge on the type or brand of powder that will work best on a given bullet weight, of the cartridge that you load. Start low and work up.
- Thread starter
- #6
Thanks for all the good advice. I understand that certain cartridges and powders go together, but my question is, when you say start low and work up, are you shooting small groups at each charge weight (say incriments of .3 grains to max) or are you shooting a single round and looing for patterns in the string of shots?
DrMike
Ballistician
- Nov 8, 2006
- 37,190
- 5,660
UD77,
Really, with most medium to slow burn powders, increments of one grain will be sufficient for a quick survey of a load. I usually start 10% below maximum charge and work up in one grain increments for standard cartridges. For magnum cartridges (say over 70 grains), two grain increments will permit me to quickly survey the spectrum of charges. Because I am shooting a lot, I shoot three shot groups and assess the data collected. If a particular charge looks promising, I'll focus on it by adjusting OAL or adjusting the charge is the magazine restricts seating the bullet out toward the lands. On any given day I'll have as many as six to eight rifles with me as I work up loads. I simply don't have time to work in smaller increments that I mentioned. Hopefully, this will assist you by giving some insight into my personal practise.
Really, with most medium to slow burn powders, increments of one grain will be sufficient for a quick survey of a load. I usually start 10% below maximum charge and work up in one grain increments for standard cartridges. For magnum cartridges (say over 70 grains), two grain increments will permit me to quickly survey the spectrum of charges. Because I am shooting a lot, I shoot three shot groups and assess the data collected. If a particular charge looks promising, I'll focus on it by adjusting OAL or adjusting the charge is the magazine restricts seating the bullet out toward the lands. On any given day I'll have as many as six to eight rifles with me as I work up loads. I simply don't have time to work in smaller increments that I mentioned. Hopefully, this will assist you by giving some insight into my personal practise.
- Thread starter
- #8
Powerstroke
Handloader
- Feb 24, 2006
- 1,792
- 33
I don't subscribe to the ladder test either - I'll usually start with the bullet I would like to use and cross ref several manuals to choose a powder. As Dr. Mike said, usually even in one grain increments.
The ONE CRITICAL element in my opinion however is change only one item at a time. If one powder doesn't appear as if it's going to work, switch powders. If you find a load that appears it's going to be worth working with, then you can start changing primers, bullet seating depth etc... again, one at a time.
The ONE CRITICAL element in my opinion however is change only one item at a time. If one powder doesn't appear as if it's going to work, switch powders. If you find a load that appears it's going to be worth working with, then you can start changing primers, bullet seating depth etc... again, one at a time.
DrMike
Ballistician
- Nov 8, 2006
- 37,190
- 5,660
+1
It is impossible to draw a conclusion with any measure of validity when multiple parameters are changed simualtaneously.
After over 30 years of reloading I have found it easy to get on the right track for a load. It is simple. Go to the Sierra loading manual and look up your caliber and bullet weight you want to use and they have a suggested accuracy and hunting load. I have found that the accuracy load is pretty much right on the money. I do work up to these loads by shooting two rounds loaded with 1 gr and .5 gr less than the recommended load and seat my bullet 10 thousands off the lands to see what the pressure looks like with my cases and primer and seating depth which is usually different than what they call for. I then play with seating depth to find better accuracy.
Like has been said when you have been loading a long time you find that there are certain powders that go with certain calibers like pie and ice cream.
4350's & 4831's usually go with anything on the 30-06 case. 25-06 through the 30 cal standard mag case.
4895's, Varget, 4064 usually go will the short 308 case from 243 win up to the 308 Win.
I usually find best accuracy about 1 grain less that a max load of the proper powder which will give you 100% or near load capacity. I fool with a lot of wildcat rounds and find a chronograph is very much needed in working up loads. When your velocity is getting a little higher than it really should be even though no pressures signs are showing up you still know it is time to really slow down or stop on the powder charge.
Like has been said when you have been loading a long time you find that there are certain powders that go with certain calibers like pie and ice cream.
4350's & 4831's usually go with anything on the 30-06 case. 25-06 through the 30 cal standard mag case.
4895's, Varget, 4064 usually go will the short 308 case from 243 win up to the 308 Win.
I usually find best accuracy about 1 grain less that a max load of the proper powder which will give you 100% or near load capacity. I fool with a lot of wildcat rounds and find a chronograph is very much needed in working up loads. When your velocity is getting a little higher than it really should be even though no pressures signs are showing up you still know it is time to really slow down or stop on the powder charge.
