Nickel Brass

[RL338]

I have some Nosler nickel plated brass for 458 WM laying around. I never worked with this kind of brass. Does anyone anneal nickel? I assume it sizes like normal brass.
Looking for others do with it.

 

[ElmerThud]

My understanding is annealing nickel cases isn't possible... but hey, I'm not a matalurgist!
That said, I used nickel cases for a long time & provided headspace is set correctly when you F/L resize, the cases can last a very long time.
It depends also on how hot you load before primer pockets get too loose.
Not sure, but I think with .458WM headspace is on the belt? Comments on this from someone who knows?

 

[RL338]

I’m just one of the those who anneal after every firing to eliminate one variable.

 

[ShadeTree]

I have some nickel plated brass I picked up for a 257 Roberts AI. Don't know if it made any difference or not, or if you can anneal nickel brass in the traditional sense, but I did anneal it to at least in my mind aid in fireforming to the AI chamber. No issues but I cannot comment on its longevity as I only have maybe 2 firings on that brass.

In my view you're better off working with traditional brass that you're familiar with, but in my case I took what was available at the time.

 

[hunter24605]

I looked it to it quite a bit when I ended up with some for a 280 REM. It’s said that annealing nickel brass hardens the nickel, and that seemed to Be the general consensus. But more reading from knowledgeable sources indicated that nickel hardens at a much higher temp than brass anneals, and is fine to anneal it as usual. The only other crumb of advice I can offer is, and you’re probably already using one, but nickel cases tend to shave a little off the bullet unless you use a VLD chamfer.

 

[wvbuckbuster]

First nickel brass I used was RP and it seemed harder than normal plus scratched my die. Have been using Winchester nickel from Supreme factory stuff and it works just fine. Several reloads and no annealing. RP was 270Win and Win is 30-06. Dan.

 

[truck driver]

My only experience with nickeled brass is in handgun calibers such as 38spl. I always lubed it when sizing even in carbide dies since the nickel coating is like hard chrome. As the nickel coating wears it will flake off and get into places you don't want and will jam the mechanism in handguns causing failures to fire or completely disabling them, had it happened in both my PPC revolvers and my S&W M52 38spl wad gun.

 

[RL338]

In my view you're better off working with traditional brass that you're familiar with, but in my case I took what was available at the time.

I have a pile of regular brass , would just like to put these to use.

 

[xphunter]

I avoid nickel cases if possible, but I understand your desire to use what you have.
I give them away or toss them myself

 

[PJGunner]

"My understanding is annealing nickel cases isn't possible... but hey, I'm not a matalurgist!"

I've been annealing nickel plated brass for some time. When I had my custom .280 Rem. built, the only brass I could find was Winchester nickel plated stuff. On close inspection, it has a rather dull finish and looks to me like was was an extremely thin coating of nickel, I prefer to call it a wash type coating. I also note that it slowly disappears as you run them through the tumbler over time. My thought is it's not going to be a problem.


"First nickel brass I used was RP and it seemed harder than normal plus scratched my die. Have been using Winchester nickel from Supreme factory stuff and it works just fine. Several reloads and no annealing. "

I'm not surprised. I've noted that Remington nickel plated brass is , or at least was much shinier than Winchester's brass. AFAIK, Remington hasn't changed but as I haven't used any nickel plated Remington in the last 20 or so years I may not be correct. I believe back then, both Remington and Winchester actually nickel plated their brass. Current Winchester that I have on hand has a very thin coating that wears off to some degree during tumbling. After about five or six trips in the tumbler, the Winchester brass starts to show through. Usually, when I run a batch through the tumbler it runs overnight so that probably accelerates the wear on the plating.
Paul B.

 

[Charlie-NY]

I've shot plenty of Rem and Starline nickel plated 45-70 brass. I have never had an issue of any kind. I never tried to anneal my 45-70 brass and have never had a reason to either.

 

[gerry]

Reviving this thread. Seems to be a lot of different answers on this. I guess I could try it unless there's a reason not to anneal nickel plated brass.

When I do it I hold the case just above the rim and only put the neck into the flame of the torch. When it gets hot I drop it onto a wet rag and cool it off. Works so far.

 

[RL338]

Since posting I’ve came into a large amount of brass cases , these were shelved.
Thanks to those who did respond , but I’m sticking to brass.

 

[clearwater]

I have some nickel brass. Use it for revolver when it stays in a leather gun belt to stop Verdigris and in rifle for a few special loads that I have with me hunting that I want visually separate from the standard loads.

I have annealed the nickel plated rifle brass and it turns to a more brass colored on the neck where annealed. Doesn't seem to effect anything. Shoots the same. 30-06 and 25-06.

 

[KinleyWater]

I've got a little nickle in 45-70, and some in 357, maybe 38 spl. Haven't tried reloading them yet, but I have never had any issues with normal brass, so I don't know if I ever will.

 

[truck driver]

I don't see a reason for not using nickeled brass as long as you clean it like you would non nickeled brass.
Just be aware like any other brass that after numerous loadings the nickel tends to separate and could cause problems, it's basically common sense to inspect the brass.
Any dirty brass will scratch your dies so it is not just nickeled brass that causes this problem.
It was basically an answer to corrosion problems that police departments were having with ammo that was carried for long periods of time and never fired.