Nosler Brass and Federal Match Primers

[35R]

Good Morning All,

A while back I've loaded 50 rounds to be use in breaking the Pac-Nor barrel on my new build. I used Winchester Large Rifle primers on the first 25 and Federal Match on the second 25. The WLR went in rather smooth all the way in. The F210M were really hard to insert in the pockets. To the point were there was a smidge of wobble when standing the case upright. I did press as much as I could taking care of not crushing the primers in the process.
Fast forward until yesterday. I went to range to finish the break-in procedure an notice some of the F210M primed cases were hard to chamber. Meaning, I've really have to push the bolt down to close it all the way. While, trying this I took the problematic rounds out to visualy examine them. There were no visible markrs on the bullet (Thought I had loaded them long and were touching the lands) What I did noticed was a slight shinny "smear" on the cup of the primer. Most likely made by the bolt face when forcing the bolt down.

The WLR primed case chambered smoothly

Have any of you have had similar problems using Federal Primers on Nosler Brass?

I'll welcome your comments

Cheers,

35R

 

[SJB358]

I haven't used anything but CCI primers in quite awhile, but it sounds like Federal's are a little larger in size than Winchesters. What were you seating the primers with? I use my Forster, but I am the odd duck here, most have a hand tool I think.

 

[DrMike]

True the primer pockets first. I just finished a set of 300WM rounds, using CCI250. The primer pockets were very tight. I keep one hand tool specifically for such tight pockets. There should be no wobble, which likely accounts for the difficulty in closing the bolt. The primers should be seated about .002 to .004 below the case head.

 

[35R]

SBJ,

I use a LEE hand priming tool. However, I have never experience this using any other brand of brass and F210M primers. This is my very first time using Nosler Brass. It looks as if I am in need of another handloading tool :mrgreen:

 

[velvetant]

I had that happen before.
I use a K&M primer tool that is similar to the Lee just without the primer reservoir, Seat the primer then rotate the case 180 degrees and push again.
Seems to work for me with really tight primers

 

[Kodiak]

Lyman and other reloading-tool companys sell primer-pocket truing reamers, as has been noted above. I use them from time to time just to make sure everybody is on the same page.

And it's always wise to mic a few primers often, especially if changing primers or cases.

 

[Guy Miner]

First time I used Nosler brass was not long ago - loading .25-06 ammo for this season. Used my good old Federal 210 match primers. They slipped right into the Nosler primer pockets, no problem. I got some fine accuracy too. Been meaning to sit down and do a more detailed load report on that combination of components as it worked out really well at the range and in the field.

Nosler brass, Nosler Ballistic Tip bullets, Federal 210 match primers, Retumbo. All of which combined to produce really nice accuracy from my factory built Remington and filled a few tags as well.

I have seen brass & primer combinations that didn't work out nearly as easily though. Must be small variations in manufacturing standards.

FWIW, Guy

 

[Wondermutt]

I had the same problem with new 300 RUM Nosler brass. Winchester Mag primers fit right in. I trued the primer pockets, and problem solved The Fed 215M primers fit. I reloaded a set of once fired Nosler brass that were from their trophy grade line in the same caliber. Again, the WLR mag primers and CCI primers fit, but the Fed 215M primers needed the pockets trued before they would fit. So, long story short, I now use other brass and the 215M primers fit without the additional work.

I have reloaded about 80 or so 30-06 Nosler brass, and other than needed annealing, I have had no issues at all. 210M primers go right in. Go figure.

 

[Oldtrader3]

I use an old RCBS hand priming tool that is about 20 years old and it handles all primer makes and case manufacturers with great leverage and smooth seating without a hitch. I always seat primers to .002/.004 beneath the top of the primer pockets.

I also use a Lee hand primer for small cases and precision die loading. I have found that if I use good quality brass (Norma, Nosler) that I have minimal issues with primer seating and case life.

 

[SJB358]

I need to start looking at a proper hand priming tool. Maybe grab an RCBS universal or something..

 

[DrMike]

I need to start looking at a proper hand priming tool. Maybe grab an RCBS universal or something..

That's the one I would recommend, Scotty. The Lee is fine, but you do have to change out the shell holders with each different class of cases. I now have two Lee Auto Prime tools, an RCBS Hand Priming Tool and two RCBS Universal Priming tools. I could dispense with the others and be perfectly content with the Universal tool.

 

[Oldtrader3]

I use Federal 215 Mag Mat in both my .340 and my 7mm mag. I am using Norma cases which are pre-reamed to exacting tolerancing. I also use Nosler Magnum case whhich I believe by the looks of them, are also Norma made for Nosler. In any case, I use a RCBS, 15 year old Hand primer device which has littlle leverage in seating primers. I have absolutely no issues with the Federal 215 Mag Mat primers in seating them to .002/.004 depth below the case base datum. If these primers are larger in diameter, I can not feel a difference.

 

[SJB358]

I need to start looking at a proper hand priming tool. Maybe grab an RCBS universal or something..

That's the one I would recommend, Scotty. The Lee is fine, but you do have to change out the shell holders with each different class of cases. I now have two Lee Auto Prime tools, an RCBS Hand Priming Tool and two RCBS Universal Priming tools. I could dispense with the others and be perfectly content with the Universal tool.

They seem to get some high marks by you all. Figure I have grown up enough to try one out.. :lol:

 

[DrMike]

I have no problems with the Forster for priming, but the hand tool is quicker. Also, I like the positive feel when I seat the primer.

 

[OldMan]

If you want to really see a difference in primer diameters try the Remington 9 1/2 's. In everything I have tried them in they feel loose! It doesn't seem to matter if they are seated with a press or with a hand seating tool. The Remingtons were bought when that's all I could get and I bought several thousand so I use them in a 22-250 that really is a play toy and doesn't matter if the primer falls out, which has happened! To those that are thinking I've fired overpressure loads in these, it happens with brand new Winchester brass in 270, 30-06 and 22-250.

 

[Oldtrader3]

The Remington primers are too soft for my tastes. All of the blown in the bottom corner primers that I have seen in my life were Remington's. Depending on load, primers can run at maximum tensile strength yield. Since these primers are running so close to the tensile failure mode, they occasionally do blow in magnum loads under certain conditions. Plus, it is always Remington primers that I see blown under these conditions. That is why I will not use them, they are too soft.

 

[DrMike]

I use fewer Remington primers today than in years past because of what appears to be soft metal used in forming the cups. While Winchester primers are now made with brass cups, they don't appear to be as soft as Remington. The cups on CCI primers seems to be to be the toughest of all the major primer manufacturers.