Ruger No.1 Restoration Project.....A Labor of Love! w/Pics

Fulldraw™

Beginner
Oct 26, 2006
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Whenever I frequent my area gun shops I like to look over their racks to see what they've bought or traded for. In February of 2008, low and behold I found a Ruger No.1, model 1-B in 30-06, on the used and abused rack. After fondling the rifle and examining the years of use and some abuse (mostly to the wood finish) I adopted this Ruger as my new pet for the mere sum of $325.00.

This rifle has a serial number prefix of #130, and from looking the number up on Ruger's website I found that the rifle was built late 1975 or sometime during early 1976. It is a pre-warning barrel but not a Liberty stamped barreled model. This serial number sequence does have the original and fully adjustable 3 screw trigger, that I adjusted to a very clean and crisp three pounds.

Originally I bought this rifle as a loaner or a donor rifle to re-barrel, thinking that this rifle as is might not shoot well due to old age and neglect. The finish on the wood looked scratched up and plain rough in a lot of places ..woof! The bluing was in fair shape except for what looked liked bloody fingerprints had removed. There sure was a lot of bore cleaning to do also!

While this Ruger hung out in my safe for a few months I contemplated what direction to take this rifle. The finish on this rifle had with age developed a sort of orange tint, and appeared to be "on the wood" instead of "in the wood." In the early 70's Ruger started using a spray polyurethane and that's why the finish had a glossy "on top" of the wood appearance.

I stripped off the old finish, sanded the stock, and gave the bare-naked wood a hand rubbed lovingly applied oil finish. I love the look and warmth of an oil finished rifle stock best AND they are so easy to repair should it be necessary.

I put a Loopy VX-III 3.5 X 10 X 40 on the rifle that I had lying around Soon it was off to the range to test fire this newly restored Ruger No.1. Was I ever in for a pleasant surprise!!! I had some "cheap" factory ammo to test fire the gun with and some more pricey fodder to stuff in the barrel. When I looked through the spotting scope to check the first group I refused to believe my eyes!!! After four more groups were shot I had an aggregate group size that hovered at about ONE INCH! That's a no brainer... this rifle will be left as is, no re-barrel for this baby yet. Aw shucks, I'll just have to find another donor rifle for that re-barrel project.

I was pleased with the outcome of my project! You can judge for yourself form the pictures provided.

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Congratulations! That is a beautiful example of what a rifle should look like. The wood has great character, and your work has paid off handsomely in owning a most attractive rifle.
 
Excellent.I wish I could find a bargin like that.Anytime you can get a #1 to shoot MOA you are doing alright.
 
Fulldraw™

Welcome to the forum.
That is one beautiful No. 1 you have there! Congratulations.

JD338
 
Very very nice! Definitely a rifle to appreciate and enjoy. Let us know the 1st animal you take with it.....with pics of course. :)

Long
 
Welcome buddy and great job! Now I know where to send a #1 in case I find a used and abused one. :lol: :lol:
 
Welcome!!! Very nice Rifle!!! Nice wood work too!! Gonna own one of them some day. CL
 
Very nice. I, too, love a good oil finish. I'm always on the lookout for a project gun whose stock might shine with an oil finish job.
 
Love the No.1... Strong work on the "restoration". I have an old Rem. 48 shotgun that I have been think of refurbishing. What did you use to strip the old finish and what kind of oil did you use?
Thanks,
BP
 
Hey guys thanks for the kind words!

An oil finish is easy to do, maintain, and repair if necessary. The Purdey’s Warthog and the Napier of London gun stock refinishing kits are good products. IMHO, Birchwood Casey's Tru-Oil is also quite an excellent product that is cheap and available everywhere...but is persnickety to use for the first time user. PATIENCE is the key with a Tru-Oil finish. This rifle was a BC Tru-Oil Project.

The Citrus gel style strippers work very well. Once the stock finish is stripped make sure to re-install the recoil pad and use a sanding block to maintain nice smooth 90 degree edges between pad and stock. On this project I had to replace the original Ruger red recoil pad.

On the Ruger No.1 you have to drill out the pistol grip medallion to get to the screw holding it in place. Call Ruger and order a few...they are cheap. Remove pistol grip cap to strip finish and re-install and protect with painter's blue tape before sanding to maintain edge profile, then remove to refinish and etc.

After finish stripping make sure to carefully tape off the checkering with painter's blue tape to protect it before sanding. The checkering should only have 1 or 2 very thin coats of Tru-Oil applied with a toothbrush AFTER you have applied all the coats of finish to the entire stock.

The stock should be sanded to baby butt smooth to 400 or 600 grit sandpaper. You should either use a stock filler like French Red or wet sand the Tru-Oil (very nice). Make sure to steam out any dents or scratches then sand the high spots smooth. Lightly sand with 400 girt or buff with 0000 steel wool between coats. I use a lot of steel wool to buff and it helps to have compressed air and a tack cloth to chase the steel fibers.

If you go with the BC Tru-Oil let me help you shorten your learning curve...thin the Tru-Oil with mineral spirits to ratio of 1 part BC Tru-Oil to 4 or 5 parts mineral spirits. The secret is several thin coats. Order some of the finish felt pads from Brownell's along with their stock rubbing compounds and only begin the final rub-out after the finish has had at least a week to firmly set-up and dry.

The pics of this No.1 don't really show how the finish really came out. In natural sunlight it really is awesome even I say myself.
I will put this finished gun project up against the finish on any 10K Italian shotgun...it's that good. Yes, I'm not being very modest, but I was proud of how it turned out!!!

I've just started a new stock refinish project on a Ruger 77/22 .22 Hornet that has a laminated stock. Having never refinished a laminated stock it should be a challenge.

If anyone needs more info I'll be more than happy to oblige!

An oil finish is truly a labor of love!
 
Thanks for the info. I'm headed to the store to buy refinishing supplies. I love the No.1s and I'm always looking. Let me know if you want your $325 back! (HAHA)
BP
 
BP736":1zlnk4ve said:
Thanks for the info. I'm headed to the store to buy refinishing supplies. I love the No.1s and I'm always looking. Let me know if you want your $325 back! (HAHA)
BP


Could I have a little boot to give with original price? :eek:
 
nice job!!! thanks for your directions,, i was gonna ask about the checkering but you summed it up well,, did you put a varnish over the oil rub ????
 
Wood like that is hard to find anymore and you sure did a first class job of bringing out that grain pattern. WOW :shock:
Good Hunting
Elkhunt
 
romex2121":qsx8w40k said:
nice job!!! thanks for your directions,, i was gonna ask about the checkering but you summed it up well,, did you put a varnish over the oil rub ????

Thanks so much for the very kind words! The finish you see is Tru-Oil only and with no stain. The Tru-Oil is nearly bullet proof and you don't need anything on top of it.
 
Thanks so much for the very kind words! The finish you see is Tru-Oil only and with no stain. The Tru-Oil is nearly bullet proof and you don't need anything on top of it.[/quote]

thank you for posting your results,, im all gung ho to give my rem 700 a new look :lol:
 
Fulldraw,

I bought a Ruger No. 1B new in '76, mine is a 6mm Rem. The trigger came from the factory at 18 oz, it has held that over the years. I loaned it out, and it needs some of that work too.

Thanks for posting what you did and how you did it, great job!

jim
 
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