Sauer 100 questions

[Nimrod84]

Hi guys,

I'm looking at a Sauer 100 Ceratech (synthetic stock) and I have a few questions that internet searches & manuals haven't provided answers for. If anyone has any insight, I would love to hear it. I have emailed Sauer USA but haven't heard back from them.

1. How in the world does the bolt disassemble?
Specifically, I reload so I really need to be able to get a stripped bolt. This thing looks like a beast; it has two ejection plungers, a cocking indicator, an exposed wire among some other new to me features.

2. Any idea on torque recommendations for the action screws? Stock is injection molded plastic, so I'm guessing 30-35 lbs. But it does have a unique "bedding" system.

3. Any known issues or problems with the Sauer 100?

Thanks,
Nimrod84

 

[ShadeTree]

Can't answer #2 and 3, but conveniently this topic on question #1 was just brought up not long ago. Unless for some reason yours is different, this should fix you up.

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=40210

 

[Nimrod84]

Thank you ShadeTree, that helps a lot. Honestly I'm not sure how I missed that...

I've only spent about 7 minutes with one in hand and I fell in love with the LOP, trigger and balance. I know Fotis likes / liked his viewtopic.php?f=9&t=39381&hilit=Sauer+100.

My main concern is with its price and distribution through Sportsmans Warehouse, I would imagine that their would be more internet chatter on it. How to disassemble the bolt, magazine feeding issues, trigger adjustment stories, etc. So the lack of discussion is a bit of a mystery and possible concern to me.

Thank you again ShadeTree.

 

[ShadeTree]

Yes sir.

 

[charlie2072]

Hi guys,

I'm looking at a Sauer 100 Ceratech (synthetic stock) and I have a few questions that internet searches & manuals haven't provided answers for. If anyone has any insight, I would love to hear it. I have emailed Sauer USA but haven't heard back from them.

1. How in the world does the bolt disassemble?
Specifically, I reload so I really need to be able to get a stripped bolt. This thing looks like a beast; it has two ejection plungers, a cocking indicator, an exposed wire among some other new to me features.

2. Any idea on torque recommendations for the action screws? Stock is injection molded plastic, so I'm guessing 30-35 lbs. But it does have a unique "bedding" system.

3. Any known issues or problems with the Sauer 100?

Thanks,
Nimrod84

I know this is a really old thread but I also can't find any info on how to disassemble the bolt, and the above link no longer has any pics or video link. Can anyone please send me the link or repost it etc? It would help me out a lot! I'm sure mine is just as full of grease. Thanks in advance!

 

[bdbrown66]

OP, I can't help you with your questions, but something you Said caught my eye. Can you explain this:

"Specifically, I reload so I really need to be able to get a stripped bolt."

Maybe I'm the uninformed one, but I don't get the connection between reloading and stripping the bolt. I've been reloading for 30 years give or take, and I almost never strip the bolt. What am I missing?

Thanks,
Brian

 

[jimbires]

OP, I can't help you with your questions, but something you Said caught my eye. Can you explain this:

"Specifically, I reload so I really need to be able to get a stripped bolt."

Maybe I'm the uninformed one, but I don't get the connection between reloading and stripping the bolt. I've been reloading for 30 years give or take, and I almost never strip the bolt. What am I missing?

Thanks,
Brian

Brian , I strip my bolt too . I resize my brass to fit my chamber . I want the bolt to have no resistance . the resistance comes from cocking the firing pin . if the bolt is not stripped you really can't tell if it's the firing pin cocking , or the brass needs sized a little more . there is a very good video that explains this way better than I can . I can't think of the gun shop that has the video . I'll post the link as soon as I think of him .

EDIT;

I was thinking of the wrong smith . here is his videos . watch sizing brass , finding the lands , clickers .

Videos | wheeleraccuracy

www.wheeleraccuracy.com

 

[bdbrown66]

Brian , I strip my bolt too . I resize my brass to fit my chamber . I want the bolt to have no resistance . the resistance comes from cocking the firing pin . if the bolt is not stripped you really can't tell if it's the firing pin cocking , or the brass needs sized a little more . there is a very good video that explains this way better than I can . I can't think of the gun shop that has the video . I'll post the link as soon as I think of him .

EDIT;

I was thinking of the wrong smith . here is his videos . watch sizing brass , finding the lands , clickers .

Videos | wheeleraccuracy

www.wheeleraccuracy.com

I'll check it out, thanks.

 

[NYDAN]

I know this is a really old thread but I also can't find any info on how to disassemble the bolt, and the above link no longer has any pics or video link. Can anyone please send me the link or repost it etc? It would help me out a lot! I'm sure mine is just as full of grease. Thanks in advance!

Charlie,

Since my neighbor recently purchased a Sauer 100 Classic XT I have researched the issue extensively. There is almost nothing out there about the Sauer 100 bolt. There was a thread on here by one of our forum members (Cleveland48). However, his bolt did not look like the one that my neighbor bought.

It seems that there was a minor change in the bolt and firing pin design and what they produce now is slightly different than what Cleveland48 has. It appears that the Sauer 100 and the Mauser M18 are built by the same parent company and the bolts on the two rifles are very similar, if not identical. I did find a video on how to disassemble a Mauser M18: https://www.google.com/search?q=mau...ate=ive&vld=cid:08251186,vid:I1R-un2z3ys,st:0

I have had this bolt to my local gunsmith with an extractor issue, which was easily remedied with a very slight bend to the wire/spring that holds the extractor in place. While we had the bolt in our hands I told him how the above video said to disassemble it. He looked at it and agreed that the video would be correct. However, I have not yet tried it myself.

I hope the above proves to be helpful. Dan

 

[charlie2072]

Thanks NYDAN!
My bolt looks a bit different. I have a Howa and a CZ and the bolts come apart very easily by turning the shroud, but this Sauer is very tricky with little to no info. The only thing I've found is on this site but they have no picture! He references drifting the pin out, which I can only assume he's talking about the pin at the base of the bolt handle?

Sauer 100 Bolt Disassembly

I’ve got a Sauer 100 in 308 and I would like to have a look at the firing pin and spring, there’s nothing in the user manual. All I can see is a

enoughgun.com

I'll attach some pics of my bolt.

 

[NYDAN]

Your bolt looks like Cleveland48's bolt. Check out this post: https://forum.nosler.com/threads/need-help-with-a-sauer-100-xt-bolt.40210/

You might try to PM Cleveland48 to get more details on he got his apart.

 

[charlie2072]

Your bolt looks like Cleveland48's bolt. Check out this post: https://forum.nosler.com/threads/need-help-with-a-sauer-100-xt-bolt.40210/

You might try to PM Cleveland48 to get more details on he got his apart.

Thanks NYDAN, I've sent him a PM. I've looked at that post but none of the pictures work for me. Hopefully he gets back to me.

 

[charlie2072]

Right, since I couldn't find any info I decided to just have a crack and and disassemble my bolt. Once I worked it out I decided to make a video to help other people. Hope it helps!

Sauer S100 bolt disassembly

 

[NYDAN]

Well, we can confirm that there are two different types of bolts for the Sauer 100. My neighbor bought a Sauer 100 Classic XT chambered in 7mm-08 and I have been setting it up for him.



The bolt on his is different from those of Cleveland48 and charlie2072. It does NOT have the retaining pin.



It appears that the one I am working with was manufactured in December 2022.



This bolt disassembles in the same way as the Mauser M18. Starting with the bolt in the cocked position, depress bolt shroud and turn away from the de-cocked position.

Here is a video showing me disassembling the bolt:

Dan

 

[RL338]

Well, we can confirm that there are two different types of bolts for the Sauer 100. My neighbor bought a Sauer 100 Classic XT chambered in 7mm-08 and I have been setting it up for him.

View attachment 22949

The bolt on his is different from those of Cleveland48 and charlie2072. It does NOT have the retaining pin.

View attachment 22950

It appears that the one I am working with was manufactured in December 2022.

View attachment 22951

This bolt disassembles in the same way as the Mauser M18. Starting with the bolt in the cocked position, depress bolt shroud and turn away from the de-cocked position.

Here is a video showing me disassembling the bolt:

Dan

That’s easy like a Howa/Vanguard

 

[ben5607]

Well, we can confirm that there are two different types of bolts for the Sauer 100. My neighbor bought a Sauer 100 Classic XT chambered in 7mm-08 and I have been setting it up for him.

View attachment 22949

The bolt on his is different from those of Cleveland48 and charlie2072. It does NOT have the retaining pin.

View attachment 22950

It appears that the one I am working with was manufactured in December 2022.

View attachment 22951

This bolt disassembles in the same way as the Mauser M18. Starting with the bolt in the cocked position, depress bolt shroud and turn away from the de-cocked position.

Here is a video showing me disassembling the bolt:

Dan

NYDAN, first off thanks for posting this, I am in the same boat. Did you ever venture to removing the two ejector plungers on the bolt face? I have the same bolt as you do from Dec 2022 on a 100 Fieldshoot 308.

 

[NYDAN]

Ben5607,
Welcome to the Nosler forum. This is a great place to learn and share information. There are a large number of knowledgeable people who are happy to share their knowledge and experience in a respectful way.

To answer your question, "No, I have not ventured into removing the ejector plungers on the bolt face". The ejectors on the rifle I am been using worked free and smoothly so I didn't feel the need to remove them for cleaning. I did not look to see how to remove them.

I did, however, have to remove and adjust the wire spring that holds and positions the extractor. To be accurate, I had a gunsmith adjust the wire spring. He ever so slightly bent wire that goes into the extractor. He bent it toward the center of the bolt so that the extractor was being pressed to the centermost position where the hook of the extractor could clip into the groove in front of the rim of the cartridge case.

I have since finished working with the rifle and am no longer in a position to figure out how to remove the ejector plungers. Sorry. Good luck in getting your question answered. I hope that once you have the information, you can come back and post the answer you found.

Dan

 

[ben5607]

Dan, I appreciate the welcoming. I have benefitted many times from forums like this and contribute when possible.

I continued disassembly of the bolt face to remove the twin plungers such that I could get a good fit check for my resized brass. Below are the steps

1. After removing the firing pin assembly, the plungers must be depressed to remove friction between the 1/16" barrel pin and the plunger stems. Utilizing a spent de-primed casing and fashioning a splint with a large allen key worked well for me. Its a good idea to either use tape or a dryer sheet to not scratch up your bolt. When securing the bolt to the Make sure not to cover up the 1/16" pin. 2. Take a 1/16"punch and tap out the barrel pin. Use a roll of tape to prop up the bolt and to catch the pin.


3. Gently remove the punch and slowly release pressure on the plungers by holding the brass against the hex key and sliding off the zip tie. Slowly remove the brass from the bolt face and extractor lip. The plungers and springs will fall out. The springs may retain some grease requiring a gentle shake to slide out.


Reverse the process for reassembly.

Ben

 

[NYDAN]

Ben,
Thank you for that tutorial. It is very helpful.

Good luck with your load development. I hope you post your results on this forum.

I had MOA accuracy using Nosler factory 120 gr. BT, https://www.nosler.com/7mm-08-rem-120gr-ballistic-tip-hunting-ammunition.html, factory loads in the rifle I was working with. Since this rifle is for a beginning hunter and the father plans to limit shots to about 100 yards, we decided to go with the Nosler factory loads for hunting.

However, we plan to use Hornady's Custom Lite ammo, https://www.hornady.com/ammunition/rifle/7mm-08-rem-120-gr-sst-custom-lite#!/, to get the boy started. The accuracy with the Hornady Custom Lite ammo isn't as good as with the Nosler ammo. Once we have some brass to work with, I will develop some light loads for future use by the younger brother and sister to learn on.
Dan