SNAFU.....Rifle? Scope? Load ? less than3 weeks to resolve

[SJB358]

I had that issue with my 325 wsm, two of the screws were notorious for working loose over time. I gave them a dose of blue loctite and the problem went away. I've since replaced the rings and the blue loctite was easily removed...When you get your torque driver, give the action screws a look, loose or over/under torqued action screws could be your culprit..It caused me to do a lot of head scratching when my brothers rifle suddenly developed erratic groups. After checking scope, rings, and ammo to no avail, I checked the action screws and one was indeed a little loose, but BOTH needed torqued to the proper torque values. After torquing them the rifle started grouping again.

So, for a few years now I have put a little bit of clear nail polish on my action screws to make sure they stay torqued properly. Truth is the torque wrench has worked wonders for me on just about all of the guns. I dislike things coming loose and try my best at making sure I clean all screws and fasteners with some acetone before applying anything to them.

 

[truck driver]

I had that issue with my 325 wsm, two of the screws were notorious for working loose over time. I gave them a dose of blue loctite and the problem went away. I've since replaced the rings and the blue loctite was easily removed...When you get your torque driver, give the action screws a look, loose or over/under torqued action screws could be your culprit..It caused me to do a lot of head scratching when my brothers rifle suddenly developed erratic groups. After checking scope, rings, and ammo to no avail, I checked the action screws and one was indeed a little loose, but BOTH needed torqued to the proper torque values. After torquing them the rifle started grouping again.

So, for a few years now I have put a little bit of clear nail polish on my action screws to make sure they stay torqued properly. Truth is the torque wrench has worked wonders for me on just about all of the guns. I dislike things coming loose and try my best at making sure I clean all screws and fasteners with some acetone before applying anything to them.

Scotty; why nail polish over blue loctite? Is it easier to remove the screws?

 

[SJB358]

Scotty; why nail polish over blue loctite? Is it easier to remove the screws?

It is just what I had on hand at the time and it worked..

 

[sask boy]

I personally have used Talley lightweights for years without any problems :wink:.
I noted that one person stated use Blue locktite instead of Red. I would really recommend using Purple locktite it does a very good job on rings & bases and is much easier to break if need be.
I shot a Browning Medallion for many years in the 375 H & it had the Boss system.I was using Leupold rings and did have a issue with a broken front screw in the base and that is when I switched over to Talley.

Blessings,
Dan

 

[truck driver]

I personally have used Talley lightweights for years without any problems :wink:.
I noted that one person stated use Blue locktite instead of Red. I would really recommend using Purple locktite it does a very good job on rings & bases and is much easier to break if need be.
I shot a Browning Medallion for many years in the 375 H & it had the Boss system.I was using Leupold rings and did have a issue with a broken front screw in the base and that is when I switched over to Talley.

Blessings,
Dan

Dan; I just put Talley light weights on my new to me 300wm and while torquing the front base screw one of the heads popped off the screw.
I called Talley and they sent me a new set of screws for free. The rep couldn't believe the head popped off.

 

[Nimrod84]

Dan,

I'll own up to the blue locktite / thread-locker claim. The reason I recommended the blue thread-locker was that the screws in the Aluminum mounts were coming loose; my first thought was that the Aluminum mounts might be starting to strip and their use on a magnum moved me to suspect that a stronger bond might be warranted. In general I'm with you on the purple thread-locker.

TD - not to jump into your question on nail polish over thread-locker that you asked Scotty. My local stores have, blue locktite, green penetrating thread-locker and red from two different companies. On most of my mounts I use nail-polish as it is handy and has about the same holding and release properties as the purple thread-locker that Dan recommended. The nail polish hasn't let me down yet, although I don't trust the nail polish to have as long of a lifespan as any thread-locker; so checking the nail polish is part of my pre-season check. I tend to use the blue locktite on trigger and action screws, I will not touch any high strength red thread-locker. When I use the blue on scope mounts I do not slab it on, I use a very small dab, and when I need to remove the screws it takes a little more effort than the nail polish but not significantly more.

 

[sask boy]

Nimrod84 I wasn't bashing blue thread-lock it just I know around these parts but when I started using purple locktite people told me there was only Red & Blue.
I was just giving the gentleman another option :wink:.
I too for many years used clear nail polish.
If I was shooting big thumpers I would likely not use aluminum Talleys and I would go with a rail and 3 screw steel rings.

Blessings,
Dan

 

[cloverleaf]

I've just skimmed this thread so maybe I missed it...are the rings lapped? Some uneven tension on the rings might come from the uneven load from the rings not being aligned and make it more likely that the screws come undone. Had an intake manifold that warped and it would literally pop the heads off the bolts as it heated and contracted over time. Good luck- I hate the variables. CL

 

[Blkram]

Rodger, have seen tally screw heads snap off from time to time. I try to use new screws when moving mounts to different firearms. Never know when they have been over torqued.

284,
You are 3.6 gr over max with 7828 in Swift's manual?
Even if you are not seeing pressure signs, you could be several thousand psi over pressure and contributing to vibration causing some of your issues.

 

[Nimrod84]

Dan, no offense taken. From what I can tell everyone on the forum is here to learn and grow... As such I wanted to show my reasoning, and if it is flawed than I want to know.

Take care.

 

[truck driver]

Rodger, have seen tally screw heads snap off from time to time. I try to use new screws when moving mounts to different firearms. Never know when they have been over torqued.

284,
You are 3.6 gr over max with 7828 in Swift's manual?
Even if you are not seeing pressure signs, you could be several thousand psi over pressure and contributing to vibration causing some of your issues.

Hi Gill; these were fresh out of the package and never torqued. The customer service rep was a little astonished that I had a problem with one of their screws the head had popped off at
15 inlbs of torque. I like to torque my base screws to 25 inlbs .
What I didn't tell him was that I replaced it with an old Weaver slotted screw which I turned the head to fit their base. I think they are getting cheap using cast screws instead of machined steel screws.