Still scratching 257 wby

[nitis]

This dang thing is going to be the death of me.

However I do know how to make it shoot but what else can I do to make it better.

Try to follow me here.

So if you recall I was having better results using resized 7mag brass than 257 wby brass.

So I wanted to eliminate something today and make sure that I was not only getting those results in the new unfired brass but in once fired brass as well, proving the point that it like the shorter neck.

Wrong it only likes new unfired resized 7mag brass a like load from a once fired case opens the group way up.

I got a 3 shot 1 hole group at 100 yards with 70 grs of rl 22 and the 100 gr etip. same load in once fired brass about 1.5"

I have noticed that there is some fireforming taking place as when I put my powder funnel on new resized brass it slips right on but with the once fired the fit is a little more snug so there must be more taper to the new stuff so is this creating more pressure? I have absolutly no pressure signs at all.

 

[SJB358]

Is it an issue of case length? I have never had a rifle not like once fired brass (from the same rifle) more than new stuff. Usually the once fired stuff works really good. Maybe you need to fireform and then trim everything back down to starting lengths. Good luck. Scotty

 

[nitis]

I will get the calipers out and check I originally thought it was a length issue since the resized 7mag brass has such a shorter length neck

of course I think I am no out of new unfired brass

 

[Greg Nolan]

The Weatherby has a lot of freebore. That's one the secrets to their velocity. If there is a difference in OAL it will have an effect on accuracy. Find The Max. OAL of your rifle and adjust back from there. That's an issue with most rifes. Just my venture of opinion.
Greg

 

[CAhunter]

Nitis Are you neck turning the 7mm brass after forming?

 

[GB300wm]

I'm thinking neck tension is the issue here. Is your chamber cut for a standard neck or is it cut tight? After firing a case, does a bullet fit inside it? If so, is it tight or loose? If I remember right, you have a Christenson arms 257 and it may have a tight neck chamber which may require turning your necks to properly release the bullet upon firing. Have you tried weatherby brass to see? A chronograph will also help. Your bad groups probably are not consistent at all and extreme spreads are probably high which is an indication of proper bullet release.
The reason I ask these questions is because I have a custom rifle with a tight neck chamber and proper neck tension and bullet release is crucial. It will go from tack driver to the chopping block quick. More so than with a stock rifle. :grin: :grin:

 

[nitis]

GB

Yes I am working with my christensen but I doubt the chaber is all that tight as it is a factory remington barrel the gun started life as a 700 ss sps.

I will test fit some bullets to see and get back to you.

I originally tried weatherby brass and the more I think about it it seems as though the first firing through that bag of brass was pretty good then went down hill.

I originally thought that the shorter necks aided in the "release" of the bullet early on but now I am subject

I am green to reloading and brass prep. Are you thinking that the necks are too thick? If so do you basically ream the inside out? What do I need to remedy this?

I am thinking this is sounding similar to what can happen with the 220 swift getting heavy in the neck?

 

[GB300wm]

Too thick necks are what I'm thinking. Your fired case should just accept a bullet without being tight or having to push the bullet in. Factory chambers are somewhat looser. If your necks are tight, you would need an outside neck turner and size and take just a little off, fire and see how the bullet fits. Should go in, but not too tight where you have to push it in. It should fall in. If not size, take a little more off and fire and repeat until the bullet will fall into a fired case. This process will also true your case necks which makes runout a lot less on your loaded cartridges.
Hope this helps and keep me posted. :grin: :grin:

 

[nitis]

Ok makes sense for the 7mag stuff but what about the factory stuff after only 1 firing neck trimming needed. I will do whatever it takes.

What tool do I need to make these adjustments?

 

[GB300wm]

Did you try to drop a bullet in a fired case? Maybe the problem is not as bad on a new case, but it is still there. New brass is softer than heated, fired brass. If your rifle does have a tight neck, new brass would require turning also.
If you need a neck turner, I would recommend the one made by sinclair tools. I use this one and have turned thousands of cases. :grin: :grin:

http://www.sinclairintl.com/product/111 ... ning-Tools

 

[nitis]

ok just came in from the garage and test fit the bullet

its not like throwing a hot dog down a hallway but it does slide in and out rather freely and with minimal to no drag I will try it in comparison to some 2506 brass

does this rule out or in my problem or does it steer me to turning the outside of the necks?

tried the 25.06 brass and it is as free or more in teh wby and 7mm brass

 

[GB300wm]

If you feel any resistance, I would turn a little off the necks. If not, I would contact Christensen arms to see what they think. That rifle should not be that particular and should drive the tacks out of the target. I'm a little confused too. :grin: :grin:

 

[nitis]

thanks for the help I am going to try and round up a reamer or trimmer and try it

I know what christensen will tell me is that they are not responsible for my handloading and unless it won't shoot factory ammo they prolly won't care.

 

[nitis]

Ok I tried a bullet in my spent 300 case (a 308 bullet not 257) and was litterally hotdog down the hallway so I am thinking I will start with reaming as the toolis less money and easier to get my hands on faster

Again thanks for the help if you have any other ideas feel free to share

 

[CAhunter]

Nitis I was also suspecting that you needed to neck turn the brass. I would start there. Also after once firing the brass I usually trim all my brass to trim length. Let us know what else you need. Good luck.

 

[nitis]

I am not overly concerned with trim length as the trim length in my book is .014 longer than what my once and twice fired weatherby brass is and much shorter than that is the 7mag brass that was resized! Both brass shot good first time through then they went south

This has to be the issue period! I hope

 

[GB300wm]

Get you a neck turner and take off very very little off of a sized case. Load it and fire to check your tension(hot dog down a hallway). Then take off a little more(very little 0.001" wall thickness) and try again. Once your turner is set you can do all your cases. I like the sinclair in the link that I provided. I really think neck tension or bullet release is your problem. But believe me, you don't have to take off much to make a difference. :grin: :grin:

 

[nitis]

iam thinking I can get my hands on a reamer faster and less painfully than an outside turner do u think I will accomplish the same result

 

[GB300wm]

Not sure about a neck reamer. I think they are designed to remove material in the shoulder area and not designed to remove minute amounts of outside neck to clear room for bullet release. I would stick with thhe neck turner. :grin:

 

[jtoews80]

Forester makes a decent hand held unit too, but I think you're on the right track neck turning. I have a plain Wby Vanguard Sporter and it shoots 1/2 MOA consisitently with neck turned 7mm brass that has been resized and fireformed. On the intial and subsequent uses.

Your Christensian should be better than MOA at least with any brass.

I take about .0015" off my cases and that is enough. If measured with a micrometer it might read differently, but i use a caliper and keep my turner set, so the case neck thickness is about .0105" down from 0.012 or 0.0125.

Not much material really. I've also had some cases that barely were touched on one side and the other has quite abit come off, so you can see which cases are off.

JT.