To brake or not to brake? That is the question

onlybrowning

Beginner
Sep 16, 2007
167
0
I have a Browning A bolt in .325 WSM, and the recoil is stout for shooting a lot off a bench. I have always been scared of muzzle brakes because of the increase in shot volume. I am wondering if there are any styles of brakes that are effective in reducing felt recoil that aren't going to kill my ears if I shoot it in the field? I also would like to keep the barrel as short as possible. Maybe I am leaning toward a ported barrel, not a muzzle brake, I don't know. :?:
 
Brakes work. They're also seriously obnoxious regarding noise.

Only had one hunting rifle with ports - a .45-70 Marlin Guide Gun with the factory ported 18.5" barrel. I was fine shooting it at the range - it would roar, but I was wearing earplugs and earmuffs and I was fine. Really liked the way that little rascal handled too. So I took it deer hunting a few years ago...

Found a mulie. Stalked to within 70 yards, got in a good solid sitting position and squeezed the trigger.

OMG! :shock: Two things happened: First, the deer was well and truly flattened. There's something to this whole large, blunt bullet thing.

Second, my ears were ringing. They buzzed and rang for an hour. Walked over to the deer, ears ringing. Field dressed the deer, ears ringing. Hauled the deer out and to the barn, ears ringing. Somewhere along the way, skinning the deer and enjoying a beer with my buddy, my ears started coming around again. I wouldn't be surprised if I suffered permanent hearing loss from firing that little ported howitzer in the field.

Traded that rifle for a non-ported 22" .45-70 Marlin and am much happier. I have also started carrying little foam earplugs in my pocket while I hunt and if I have time, I slip them into my ears before shooting. I think the electronic ear muffs I use at the range would be great too - especially in cold weather. Haven't tried that yet.

So yes, brakes do result in decreased recoil and muzzle rise. They're also noisy as all get out. Brakes. Ports. Anything that directs the blast anywhere except downrange.

FWIW, Guy
 
A brake is designed to redirect the gases that propel the bullet . The bigger magnums have somewhat of a jet effect and really quickens the recoil pulse.
A break will really dampen recoil, as much as 50%, and make it much more tolerable to shot. Magna Porting will reduce recoil by 15%.
The down side is a tremendous increase in noise, which can also create flinching.

I would suggest you try the following before getting a brake-
1. Load down to starting loads with a light bullet.
2. Use a good recoil pad like a Pachmyer Decelerator or Limbsaver
3. Use a Past Magnum recoil shield
4. Good ear protection, both plugs and muffs
5. Shoot frequently.
Even 5 rounds a week will really help you get acclimated
6. Once you are comfortable, increase your powder wgt and bullet wgt
and repeat the process.
7 Shoot smaller calibers.
A 22 LR is great to start and finish a shooting session.

Hope this helps you out.

JD338
 
All great ideas above. Also, keep in mind recoil pads on your gun and your clothing plus your hunting jacket will add a whole lot of thickness. I would get the stock cut with this in mind and have the pad ground to fit.
 
The gun has a 1 3/8" thick Kickeez pad on it to increase the LOP for me. It is just on the bench that it is bad. Shooting it standing, sitting, or kneeling it is not bad at all. On the bench, I hold it so lightly that it snaps violently up and to the right (I do not touch the gun with my left hand at all, and put no pressure on it with my right besides activating the trigger). I have almost gotten scope eye from it a few times, even though I use a VXIII-2.5-8X36 scope. I think I'll just get that PAST pad and see it that will do it.
 
Some gunsmiths that sell and install brakes can make you a thread protecter cap to screw on in place of the brake when you're hunting. With that, you get the reduced recoil at the range where the noise probably won't make much difference with hearing protection and when you're hunting, the recoil from 1 or 2 shots probably won't bother you too much. As for a "quiet" brake, Vais makes one that seems to be a little easier on the ears than any of the other brands I've had experience with.
 
You could also take a look at a lead sled. I've never used one but have read where they work pretty good.

JD338
 
All the things JD338 said, especially the part about the Past recoil pad. They have a 3 different version. A magnum (BIG) a standard (Just right for my bench shooting) and a field version. They work GOOD and only cost about $30 or so. I can shoot my 375 and 338 RUMs with no problems. I have a brake on a few rifles and usually the extra noise doesn't bother me (kind of like recoil) when I'm shooting at an animal. "BUT" every now and then if I'm standing next to a tree or rock it WILL ring my ears good. Go to your range or club and see if someone is using a Past and ask to try it.
Good Luck :grin:
 
I use the benchmate recoil reducing rest. It effectivly adds the weight of the rest to the weight of the rifle when shooting off the bench. For extra measure, I added an additional 10 pounds of ankle weights to the rest. On one of my Magnums, I do have a brake.
 
I like my ported slug gun. It really seemed to reduce Muzzle jump but that was also a function of a properly fitted stock. I hate recoil but never notice it when there is a deer or pronghorn in the cross hairs. I shot a 7mm Wby Mag last fall that had a custom made brake. It kicked less than my 250 savage but it was loud. I read some where that the brian registers noise as pain at the level of a .22 report. To me that means I,m gonna develop a flinch if Im not wearing hearing protection. If it were me I would start with a Limbsaver pad on a cut down well fitted stock, good hearing protection, and practice with a lighter recoiling rifle, even a .22. If it still thumps you too hard, Im not opposed to a brake, I just suspect the other options are cheaper. Also wear your hunting coat to practice and have the stock fit to that. Use a slip on pad or a PAST make up the difference in the summer. Thats what I do My solution was to shoot a light recoiling cal. but I know thats not an option for everyone.
 
I certainly appreciate all of the ideas. I know I don't need to cut down the stock, if anything the 14 1/4" LOP is still too short! I assumed that very thick pad I put on would make all the difference in the world, but like I said, only on the bench, it beats you up. If I was to hold the rifle, it is fine, but I can't shoot good groups when I have pressure on the gun on a bench. I think I'll try the PAST pad. Sounds like the most logical solution.


Note: The Browning A bolt stainless stalker is quite light in this configuration. Maybe adding removable weight to the gun like I used to do on my 4 position smallbore rifle would work... :idea: Now, how do I affix it to the gun :?:
 
To help with the gun jumping off the rest, set the front rest at the recoil lug area and not at the tip of the fore end. Be aware of the sling swivel, it may have to be removed for bench shooting. Use what JD has listed for recoil reduction. Get to the range and shoot, a lot. There is no replacement for trigger time at the range.Rick.
 
Personal I would just pick a cartridge with recoil you can handle. From deer, elk, to big bears there are proven cartridges that are proven to be very effective and do not have excessive recoil. Unless the recoil of a 243win bothers you I wouldn't do it.

A 270win or 308win will kill elk let alone deer at 400-600 yards and most hunters should keep their shots under 300 yards anyway. So why the need for a cartridge with excessive recoil by your standards?
 
+1 on what tjen said. If recoil is an issue, get a 270Win or 7mm08 and go have fun and success killing from deer to elk.
 
Do What I do in my 416 Bee. Use the brake for bench shooting and VERIFY that your pet load will shoot the same groups/point of aim with the break off for hunting. It may be different due to harmonics and change in barrel length. During a hunt I never notice recoil. Too pumped up!
 
I did not think of that Pop. I am skeptical to go in the rough terrain we encounter in the hills here that I wouldn't damage the threads if they were exposed. The terrain and me are very hard on equipment. Think it would be ok?
 
You can have a cap made that will thread on in place of the brake, and protect the threads.
 
onlybrowning":10xyto74 said:
Hmm anyone with a link or suggestion on where to look? Thanks guys.

If you mean "look for a cap", just ask whoever installs the brake. They usually refer to them as "thread protectors".

I bought one for my 6.5x284 when I had a Vais brake installed. To be honest, I never use the thread protector.

You could always leave a set of ear plugs hanging around your neck while hunting. However, when the shot opportunity presents itself you'll probably forget to put them in. :lol:
 
There are some great suggestions here that are definatly worth pursuing vs going straight to a brake. With that said, I like & have braked rifles, BUT they are dedicated bench rifles.

Yes get a PAST recoil shield, had one for yrs and it works great. I can bang out 20-30rds off the bench with my STW or 300 WBY with out an issue. (I consider myself recoil shy). To get a feel of what a past shield will do for ya, go to the range and place a sand bag between your shoulder and the stock.. You'll be able to decide then...

Alot of methods to reduce felt recoil b4 getting a brake installed. Can you justify getting a brake just to shoot off the bench? And just the anticipation of shooting it with out the brake in a hunting situation, will cause you to flinchn or lose of confidence in your equipment.

If the mentoned methods dont work for ya, drop down in power. If you dont like to shoot it, its not fun anymore...

But if you dig a brake, get one.

Rod
 
Back
Top