Well I tried annealing, take a look.

wisconsinteacher

Handloader
Dec 2, 2010
1,980
293
I tried 5 IMI 7.62 pieces that have been fireformed to 6.5 Grendel. They have been fired 3 times from my AR. I used a socket in a screwdriver and an LP torch. I heated until I could see the heat line move below the shoulder then put them in water. Did I do okay or do I need to do something else? They took longer to heat than I though they would.

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Thanks for the help guys.

Sorry about the fuzzy pictures. I was trying to get good and close. If you need better ones, I will try again.
 
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.223/22-250/30-06

My wife is not feeling well so I am "playing" tonight. I think I could have gone alittle longer on the 30-06?
 
Looks about the same as when I perform the same method.

I don't drop them in water any more either--I just drop them on a cloth diaper and remember not to touch them! I haven't had any issues.
 
joelkdouglas":bg5514yp said:
[R]emember not to touch them!

I just knew there was a step missing when I tried that. :shock:

WT, It looks as if you have mastered another aspect of hand loading. Congratulations.
 
8 cases doesn't make me a master but thanks for the kind words. Now I need to stay organized so I know how many times the brass has been shot. I hate being organized.
 
You might be a teacher but you can't fool us....those are lapua prototypes if I've ever seen em....lol!
 
With all due respect, you can't tell proper annealing by color. The 'color' you're seeing is actually impurities on the surface and in the gas. I use MAPP gas and there is very little color. My heat crayon says I'm doing the job I intend to do.

It does appear you are doing a very good job though, because with the 'color' you can see you're only heating the part of the neck you want to heat.
 
Yup. Looks correct to me.

I also do not drop them in anything other than a towel. Within a minute they are cool enough to touch and you dont' have to dry them out.
 
Wincheringen":zvi5fn52 said:
With all due respect, you can't tell proper annealing by color. The 'color' you're seeing is actually impurities on the surface and in the gas. I use MAPP gas and there is very little color. My heat crayon says I'm doing the job I intend to do.

It does appear you are doing a very good job though, because with the 'color' you can see you're only heating the part of the neck you want to heat.


I think W has a point. WT, if you really want to be certain about what you're accomplishing, I would urge you to get a bottle of Tempilaq. Use the stuff for about a dozen cases or so and you should be able to anneal effectively and safely by counting. I think I mentioned earlier that this is what I do, and so far holding the spinning case neck at the tip of the flame for a count of ten (using a propane torch, MAP gas supposedly heats the case necks much more quickly) has been about right. I don't anneal frequently, but I always use the Tempilaq on three or four cases when I start just to be sure. It's a very inexpensive way to confirm.
 
What temp are you trying to achieve? I have a infrared noncontact thermometer that will read up to 750 degrees. Was thinking I might be able to use that rather than tempilaq. Anybody ever tried that?
 
I would imagine you could get a temperature crayon at a welding supply store...they may even carry Tempilaq, I do not know. If not you can get Tempilaq from all kinds of on-line merchants.
 
I just ran 5 of the test pieces through the full length sizer and had no collapsed shoulders and they went through nice and smooth. I think I did it right.
 
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