What zero do you use?

[jmad_81]

I was just thinking about this the other day. On my wifes 7-08, and my 338 WM I use a 200 yard zero because of the ballistic plex on my wifes gun and the B&C on my 338.

My .243, 280 AI, and 375R don't have a scope like that. My .243 has a mil dot on it so I use a Max point blank for it. I try to keep it so that the bullet is +/- 2" line of sight. With the 55gr BT @ 3962 this gives me a MPB of 306 yards. Then I have my dots, and turrets worked out from there. The 280 AI just has a duplex in it for now, but I'm leaning to a mil dot in it as well. I'm thinking about adjusting my MPB so that it is +/- 2.5" on this gun because it doesn't shoot as small of targets. With the 140 BT @ 3147 this gives me a 290 yards MPB, putting me -13" @ 400 and -30" @ 500. The 375 R will get the same MPB set up as the 280 AI (+/- 2.5"). With the 260 AB @ 2850 I'll have a 265 yard MPB, -5" @ 300, -19" @ 400, and - 40" @ 500.

How do you guys do yours? Whats your thoughts on the +/- 2.5" MPB for big game?

 

[DrMike]

I zero almost all my rifles for 200 yards. I calculate the point blank range for the load I'm toting. Armed with that information, after calculating the range I'm good to go. This works for me, since I seldom take a shot over 350 yards, opting to get closer if possible.

With the advent of new turrets and new reticles, the game has changed. With the B & C reticle on several of my Leupold scopes, I need to know more precisely the POI for zero. When I'm zeroing a Huskemaw scope, I am compelled to generate more detailed data to permit calculation at the yardages anticipated for the shoot. I just ordered a Swarovski Z6 with Ballistic Turrets, and that will be sighted more precisely to permit adjusting the turret at various yardages. Nevertheless, I like the 200 yard zero (or in one or two cases, a 250 yard zero) and calculation of the point blank range. Clinging to this stone age point of view probably has more to do with the fact that I'm growing old and cantankerous than it does with any advantage for this particular view. :roll:

 

[nodak7mm]

What the Doc says... 200 8)

 

[Elkman]

My long rifles the STW, .300 Win Mag., 300 Bee, 7mm mag are all sighted in for 300 give or take a few, typically that is around 3.5 inches high at 100. That allows a backline hold on an elk out to 400.

The rest, typically 200 yards 1 1/2 high at a 100.

 

[Kodiak]

The .257Bee, 7STW, .270wsm are zero'd at 300 with all else including the .223 and 22-250 at 200. I shoot at targets at 200, 300, 400 and 500 and tape elevs. to stock on all except varmint calibers. Gotta leave some chance to the critters :lol: .

 

[JD338]

All my rifles are zeroed at 200 yds, exceptions are 35 Whelen and 45-70 which are zeroed at 100 yds.

JD338

 

[6mm Remington]

6mm, 25-06, 280, and 30-06 all sighted in 2 1/2- 2 3/4" high at 100 yards so they are dead on at 250 and a couple inches low at 300. These are all fixed power Leupold scopes with the duplex crosshair. I know from shooting and shooting how high I need to hold at different distances beyond that out to 500 yards and I would not take a shot at that range unless conditions were perfect. A wounded animal I most definitely would try and stop/kill at any range or at least make an attempt to make sure the animal does not suffer and does not get away. It's worked for me like that forever.

NOW on my son's 6mm with his B&C scope we practiced with it with the 200 yard zero to see how it hit at 100, 200, and 300 yards (farthest we had at the time), and it just worked perfectly and I was impressed. With the new scopes and ballistic capabilities it's so fast and simple if you know the distance. I'm even contemplating getting a variable scope on my next rifle or getting Leupold to put the hash marks in a 6x42mm FIXED power with the BC and FPS of the bullet I will be shooting out of it!

 

[FOTIS]

200 on all!

 

[LD375]

200 on all!

Ditto for me..200 yds

 

[1Shot]

If it will push the bullet over 2800 fps I sight it in 3" high at 100 yards for deer hunting. That will usually give me a hold in the center of the front shoulder out to 300 yards and not worry about shooting over or under a deer. If it will push the bullet 3000 fps or faster the same zero is good out to around 400 yards. If it pushes the bullet 2500 to 2700 the same zero is good out to 250 yards. For the past 30 years I have not had any trouble putting meat on the table with this set up.

 

[Greg Nolan]

Depending on the velocity and bullet drop compensation type (If any) I do pretty much the same as everyone else. I've found that in some cases mil-dot works best in the longest range calibers. DrMike has it nailed pretty good as usual.

 

[Powerstroke]

For my big game rifles it actually depends on what and where I'm hunting.
The high open elevations I like the 200yd zero - I'm with Mike on this as in the past before
I've had the oportunity to have these fancy reticles a shot out to 350 was about max.

The varmint reticle on my .300RUM gets me out to 600yds now - with the .257Bee followed up out to 500yds.

In the lower cedar tree elevations chasing mulies around, I'm fine with a 100yd zero.

These newer reticle options have really opened the door - hopefully the majority realize that because their
combo package they just purchased has that option, doesn't mean they are capable.

 

[jmad_81]

What is the advantage of the 200 yard zero over say the "point Blank Range" method? Why do u guys use your zero set up. I understand that thick country 100 yards zeros, but why a 200 yard zero on an open country rifle?

 

[Songdog]

What is the advantage of the 200 yard zero over say the "point Blank Range" method? Why do u guys use your zero set up. I understand that thick country 100 yards zeros, but why a 200 yard zero on an open country rifle?

Brother... you of all people should know the answer to this question. I'll answer it with another question... knowing you're a guys who loves to shoot coyotes as much as I do... When you miss a coyote, how often do you shoot over it?

I know for my... 80% of the time, when I miss... I miss high... and I run some flat shooting guns.

Most guns with a 300 yard zero are 4-6" high at 150-200 yards... which also happens to be where a large percentage of shots are taken on "western game"... regardless of what critter is being hunted. Now... you've got a dog in the glass, coming in fairly quick... is he 150... 200... 250... it matters... 'cause sometimes you have to hold a little low. But... with a 200 yard zero... you don't have to ever worry about shooting over stuff... you're good even on coyote size game out to 300 with very little adjustment needed... and when coyotes and pronghorn are get out past 300ish, you need to take a little more time with the shot anyway.

 

[Guy Miner]

Depends on the rifle:

100 yards:
.30-30 w/iron sights
.50 traditional muzzle loader

200 yards:
.30-06
.375 H&H
(standard velocity rifles zeroed at 200 are great for up close, or out to 300 yards)

.25-06 = 300 yards (gotta love those flat shooting cartridges in open country)

Then there are the rifles with "target turrets" on the scopes. They're all zeroed at 100 yards, with the adjustments carefully figured out to 600 yards:

.204 Ruger
.308 Win
.300 WSM

With the target turrets, depending on where I'm hunting, I may set the scope to 100, 200 or 300 yards, or even just set the zero to the range needed for the meadow far below, for example... I've got absolutely no problem with the range it, dial it, send it method of shooting game at longer ranges.

Regards, Guy

 

[bullet]

I am 2.5 inches high at 100yds on all my rifles. If I need to make a shot beyond 5 inches below line of sight I use the clicks needed by adjusting my scope and always memorizing what my clicks are needed for the given rifle I am using in the field at the time of my hunt for any given distance that I might range out to my max which is the farthest I can shoot with confidence.

 

[cloverleaf]

.25 cal. 100 Grain BT @ 2850+ 1.5 inches high at 100. If I hold where the "tan and the white" meet on a broadside antelope Im good to @300. Like it simple like that. My prefence is a "Luey dot" or a 2min dot. Pull into the wind just a bit, maybe, put the dot where you want the bullet to go and by the time you think "trigger" the bullet is there....hopefully. CL

 

[JD338]

Guy,

I have dials on my 280 AI and 338 RUM. When I first set them up, I was zeroed at 100 yds. After rethinking, they both now carry 200 yd zeros.
In a quick shot situation, I would rather be 1.5" high at 100 yds than 3-4" low at 200 yds. Beyond 200 yds, I can dial in .
Just my thoughts.....

JD338

 

[2shaky]

For the deer/ elk calibers I use the MPB with 1 1/2 " above/below line of sight.
The varmint calibers depend on terrain and critter. From 100 yd. zero to ???????

 

[Guy Miner]

JD338 - agree - I'd say that most of the time when on a hunt, I'm carrying my target-turret rifles dialed in for 200 yards, sometimes even 300 yards if I'm in particularly open country. But I still have that initial zero at 100 yards on them that I can go back to if necessary. I think that's more a matter of convenience than anything, my police range has a 100 yard rifle bench and concrete pad that's real easy for me to slide over and use when I've got some spare time at the pistol range. If not for that, I'd probably have them dialed in at 200 yards minimum.

Dial-a-range rifles, .204 & .308:

100 yard zero rifles, .50 T-C and .30-30 Marlin:

200 yard zero rifles, .30-06 and the .375:

300 yard zero rifle, the .25-06:

CL - a lot of people don't know about that 2-MOA Leupold Dot - I picked up a used 6x a few years ago with it, and you're right, it's a terrific reticle for a field/hunting scope. It's on my .30-06 now, and I'm considering having that dot added to a couple of my other hunting scopes.

Regards, Guy