25-06 CDL

Scotty,
Thanks for the pics. I probably would have faxed them to every available Remington fax number out there!!
I think you are on track with the bedding. If it took 3 cards to float, then of course there are all sorts of places it's not bedded well with them in there. Once those gaps, pressure points, and angle of the dangles are fixed, then I'll bet those groups shrink up. I see a little more lateral than up-and-down spread with the cards in, but that could be anything, and you said you were shooting fast to boot. Don't overlook the trigger clearance and even the screw clearance through to the action. It's gonna be a keeper.
Elkeater2 :)
 
Thank you EE, I am ordering some Acra Glas right now as I type this. I will also grab some 4350 for it. I already have IMR4831, RL22, RL19 and IMR7828. I figure with one of those powders, I will hit pay dirt after it is bedded properly. Also, I forgot to mention also, I was shooting on my knee s (squatting) off the bench just using a ruck sack to shoot over. I really wasn't trying to shoot the most accurate groups ever. I was more concerned with just seeing if it would keep the bullets in a 5" area of the paper! I was really worried it had a crap barrel. Seeing as it looks okay to me now. I have something to work with and don't feel too badly about the rifle. I am actually looking forward to working up some loads for this rifle, as it is probably about the gentlest recoiling rifle off the bench I have, I think. I am debating on trying a 100gr PT for the next bullet. Not sure though. Have to look on the Shooters Pro Shop and see what they have on sale! Scotty
 
Scotty

Glad for you man. I would think she will be a shooter.
The 100 gr PT is a pretty tough bullet.

JD338
 
We shall see. Not sure what I will do next. I guess I will worry about hunting season first and mess with bedding later on. Bullets and loads will come pretty easy later on. Scotty
 
beretzs":q18aprmy said:
DSC_1247.jpg
Could be just the picture... or me... but some of those .25 cal holes don't look too round. I really think you might be having an issue stabalizing the VLDs there at (or near sea level). I've seen if happen more than once with the .25-06 (and the bob)... you have to get those VLDs over 3k (and over 3100 is even better) when you're trying to run them in a 1:10" twist. If your rifle happens to be 1:10.5"... or even worse (which I've also seen happen with a factory pipe)... then you could really be behind the 8-ball to start with the VLD... or even the 115 NBT.
 
Scotty -
Really have to laugh after seeing the targets from your first session with the rifle...I had the same kind of results with the 260 on a slightly smaller scale. You start questioning everything you have ever done with shooting and loading your own ammunition. If you run out of money on this hunt you can always pull the credit card out from under the recoil lug and glue the pieces together!!! :mrgreen: Now, get out there and get it bloody!!! I want pictures
 
beretzs":1l2c5pqn said:
Me too, I think it should be okay though. With it floated like that, it seems fairly decent. I think the bedding will really help it shoot. I want it to be a good rifle. A 25-06 would be a great rifle to carry. I love to hike with the Whelen. Those two can cover alot of hunting I do. Scotty

Scotty I'm glad to hear that you are getting it figure out as well. After you get it glass bedded and the barrel is floated, you should not have any more problems with it not grouping or holding zero, and surprisingly as my gunsmith told me, even a 25-06 can split a stock if the action to stock fit isn't right and there is enough play for the rear action screw to slam into the wood a few times. Acts just like a splitting mall. I know the 25-06 doesn't bite much on the back end, but the piece of mind from having it right should make you one happy camper. If you have a chance and just for curiosity sake, I'd like to see you remove those 3 cut cards from the bottom of the recoil lug so the barrel is floated and shoot just two groups with the 100 grain bullets that you have to see what happens. If it did that poorly before you made this adjustment, I suspect that it will replicate wihat happened the first time. Maybe not to the same degree, but there has to be some real twisting and pressure issues on how that action sits in the stock for it to shoot horribly like it was :!: :twisted: I hope you indulge us on this one Scotty as it would only take a couple groups and I'd love to see the outcome. I'd be curious if it was my rifle anyway.

The guys are all right you will have the 100 grain E-tip and the Partition to play with which are fabulous, and I just think the 110 gr. AccuBond might be a real winner for deer and anything else you would shoot with the 25-06 up to and including an elk. Light for elk yes, but it will work. Good job again and no you should not have to do this to make a factory rifle shoot, but there are an awful lot of them out there that need a little bit of care to make it right! Scotty are you going to Pillar bed it as well? When seasons over and the rifle has been blooded, send us some photo's of the critters, and your new groups with the bedded rifle! :grin:
David
 
Scotty,
Dang you, I forgot to mention again that now you have it figured out, I'm starting to drool severly over that 6mm Remington coming out the first of the year in the CDL Stainless Fluted limited edition :!: Now why did you have to go do that to me :!: :roll: :roll: :mrgreen:
 
I am really thinking of having it pillar bedded. Not quite positive yet though. I am glad it is shooting, but to be honest, I think anyone who buys a new Remington has to be taking a gamble and know before going in, they may have to do some work to make them shoot. I don't think this is the case with alot of rifles made today though.

You can buy a cheapo 300.00 Marlin, Savage or WBY and get great shooting rifles out of the box. I haven't heard many complaints on the new Win's or Rugers either. Now Remington, that is a totally different story. I have heard plenty from folks who have bought them and pulled most of their hair out trying to figure out what was the issue with them. I am not trying to bash them, cause I really think they make a good bolt gun, and their stock design is awesome. I just don't believe you are getting what you are paying for, which Remington has always been known for, "most accurate rifle out of the box".... Not anymore at least.

I like the Remington's I have and have saved this one from the burn pile, but what else could be going on with the next one? They are all made on a factory line. If this one had too much forend pressure, how many other CDL's were made to the same specs and no one will ever know until the rifle is pulled out of the box. Granted, I will spend 30.00 on some Acraglas to bed it, and "should" have it cured. I guess I could have sent it back to Remington immediately, but everyone knows what a horror story Remington Customer Service is. I wasn't ready to accept that.

I will take the cards out and reshoot with the 100's and see what it does, but I strongly feel it is going to be a mess!

BK. I think the holes were a little oblong looking due to the fact I was shooting a piece of leaning plywood and the camera angle I took the pictures at. Out at the range, the holes were true and round. I don't wanna think this rifle can't stabilize a 115-120gr bullet. I really think it just had a ton of pressure on it. I could not force a dollar bill past the pressure point. Even lifting the forearm a bit could not get the paper in the there. Scotty
 
257 Ackley":1oq51zv9 said:
Scotty -
Really have to laugh after seeing the targets from your first session with the rifle...

Joel, I hope everyone got a chuckle out of me freaking out! I was within a few hours of ditching this thing and buying a M70, just to make myself feel better! Scotty
 
beretzs":10szgfj1 said:
BK. I think the holes were a little oblong looking due to the fact I was shooting a piece of leaning plywood and the camera angle I took the pictures at. Out at the range, the holes were true and round. I don't wanna think this rifle can't stabilize a 115-120gr bullet. I really think it just had a ton of pressure on it. I could not force a dollar bill past the pressure point. Even lifting the forearm a bit could not get the paper in the there. Scotty

That wasn't me, but I had a bit of a time getting 120 Partitions to shoot from my .25-06, and I was a little pressed for time, so I ended up stumbling on to a load with old-school Barnes Xs (pre-TSX). But when they are gone, I'm going to try to get the 115 or 120 Partitions to shoot. Assuming I will ever be home long enough to get to the range.
 
Scotty -
I don't think switching to the 100 grain BTs will make any difference with how the rifle shoots until you loose the pressure point and bed the action. That was the only thing that worked for my 260 with any weight bullet I tried. The twist in rifle will stabalize a 120 grain bullet. This has more to do with where everything lines back up from shot to shot and the harmonics of the barrel as the bullet is passing down the tube.
 
257 Ackley":2zo02bwa said:
Scotty -
The twist in rifle will stabalize a 120 grain bullet.

While this may be true for a flat-based lead-core bullet... bullets like the 115 VLD require a little more juice in a 10 twist. The Greenhill Formula states that the 115 Berger at 3k will require a 1:9.6" twist. While this isn't set in stone... it does show you that a 1:10" twist is getting a bit on the slow side for the longer bullets in .25 cal. I've seen it personally more than once... you have to hump the VLDs in a 1:10" twist... meaning 3100ish to get them fully stable. Measure one... you'll see why... at 1.2" they're looong... and that becomes an issue.

As a side note... I think this is why folks are having a hard time getting the new 100 grain E-Tip to shoot in the smaller .25s (Bob, Savage, etc.)... because the 100 Etip is very long for a 100 grain pill... 1.185"... and it's guilding metal construction combined with longer than average bearing surface make for lower velocities on average. When you're running them in the 3000-3100 fps range... then a 1:10" twist is MINIMUM for stability... and minimum ain't optimum.
 
I will give the 115's and Retumbo another try when I get home, after bedding it. I haven't used the rifle since I have been in NY. My sister used it one morning while hunting. I checked the zero at 100 yards when I got here, put two shots in one hole. Still no meat with it, but I hope it draws blood soon. I imagine those little 100gr Core Lokts will be nasty. Scotty
 
Well, I just ordered some Acra Gel and a can of Tru Oil. Hope to work on the bedding issue next week. Wanna have a good load for the rifle come Winter so I can use it to hunt coyotes or something! Scotty
 
Scotty,

You have gone this far, might as well pillar bed her as well. Once done, I think you will end up with a smooth shooting rifle.

JD338
 
Yeah, I am debating that Jim. Just don't have a smith in my area that I know or trust, so I am not apt to try someone out without knowing from some of you that they are good at what they do and won't charge me an arm and a leg. I was going to just bed the rifle and be done with it. I might take it down to the Precision Weapons Shop at Quantico and see what they say about it. I still have a buddy down there that might do the work for me. Matter of fact, I might do that tomorrow during lunch! Scotty
 
POP":vjnr4gff said:
Good deal. I am on needles and pins on this one.

Me too, I ordered Acra Gel, but almost bought Devcon. I stuck with Acra Glas as you and 257 Ackley recommended it. I will take the rifle into work tomorrow and prep it for the bedding job. If it works, I will leave it, if not, I will try out the Pillars. Scotty
 
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