257 weatherby

[IdahoCTD]

A Winchester action would cost you about the same but the gunsmithing cost will change unless your uncle is the one doing the gunsmithing on it. Custom guns aren't hard to figure out, like Scotty said, the weights for most components are out there. To keep it light you'd want a #3 or #4 contour barrel. 26" long would be my recommendation for a hotrod like the 257 Weatherby. After that it's picking the stock and action to use to build it. Most of the components can be found in stock now days.

I just built a 300wsm on a Remington stainless long action with a #5 Brux barrel 26" long plus a muzzle brake in a McMillan Game Scout stock that weighs 10lbs 5 oz with a 6.5x20x50 Leupold in Talley light weight mounts. The bare rifle weighed about 8lbs 6oz. The same gun in a 257 Weatherby with a #3 would weigh about 14oz less or around 7 1/2lbs. The #3 barrel is rated for a pound less but the bore is smaller so it will weigh a few ounces more then the rated difference. A McMillan Hunter stock or one with Edge fill will save some weight but I wouldn't use smaller than a #3 barrel or a #4 fluted. I would also pick a cut rifled barrel if it was me. From my experience as the contours get smaller the cut rifled barrels seem to be more accurate and shift less with heat.

If you decide to go the custom route don't be afraid to ask questions. I can help you or your uncle find parts or a gunsmith. I'm sure others would be more than willing to help as well.

 

[IdahoCTD]

Of the 3 you listed I would do a Winchester. It has the most aftermarket parts available for it and more readily available components. Also it can be had in stainless unlike a Mauser. Mausers are also limited in magazine length unless they're a aftermarket copy. Weatherby's are good but they are heavy, cost more for a action (unless you use a Vanguard), and don't have nearly as many available parts.

 

[69gto]

Alaska, if you go the custom route make sure you have it freebored to wby. specs if you want to shoot any factory ammo. I just had my custom .270 wby. re cut so when the grandson gets it he can use factory ammo. It had no effect on accuracy, the first 3 shot group afterward was all three touching.

 

[SJB358]

I'm with Nathan and being me, I'd probably do a 3 fluted to save some weight and have an 8-8.5lb scoped rifle. A 257 Wby doesn't recoil especially hard to me or my little brothers and having a great carrying rifle would mean a bunch more to me. I'd probably go with a 9 twist just to really turn good hunting bullets.

I'm a Model 70 guy, there are plenty out there and a coat of Cerracote is pretty easy to make take the weather in Alaska or anywhere else for that matter. Stocks, well, that's your call but the Echols Legend in an Edge fill might be awesome and the cast off would mitigate the recoil pretty nicely and look sharp.

 

[DrMike]

Brooke,

I'm late to this party. You've been given some excellent advice. The newer Weatherbys shoot quite well. A fine custom rifle built to meet your specs will be an investment that pays for itself many times over. You won't make anything when you sell it, but then, you're building it for yourself in the first place. Each time you pick it up, you will find a warm glow in your heart that forces itself into the world through a smile. Let us know what you choose.

 

[Anonymous]

Has anyone else heard that the ULW versions are finicky shooters ?

I've heard the same. I've set up two different ULW guns in .257...basically just mount a scope and go shoot factory rounds and both did just fine. About 1MOA which isn't bad for brand new rifles just using out of the box stuff- zero load development. Can't speak to all of them, but those two were pretty much just load and shoot type rifles. One of them has now been used on a half dozen caribou from 100 to 450 or so. The .257 gives you a lot of confidence on open country shooting. The owner isn't a gun nut- he rarely shoots anything beyond 3 or 4 to check zero and then shooting game until the freezer is full and he's done really well with it.

I'll add that all lightweights are finicky to a degree. Thinner barrels heat up fast and can do some weird things to accuracy once they heat up and light rifles typically need more concentration on shooting form to do their best.

I've shot light rifles for so long, I have the habit of taking 2-3 hours to shoot 4 or 5 groups- never letting the barrel get more than warm. The .257WBY will heat a light barrel up quickly. If you shoot slowly with regard to barrel temp- that seems to handle most of it in my experience.

I take a .22 to the range to keep from getting bored waiting for it to cool and I usually take 3 or 4 and make it an all day affair.

 

[IdahoCTD]

IMO you can't get all of the stress out of a button rifled barrel. As you turn it down and/or flute it the stress tends to show up with groups walking as the barrel gets hot. Most of these light weight semi custom guns run button rifled barrels because they can be had much cheaper than cut rifled barrels. It takes a minute to pull a button through a barrel and 45 minutes to cut rifling. If there is anywhere but the barrel to give up weight give it up there. The barrel is the single most important part of a accurate rifle. I like heavier barrels and muzzle heavy guns because they hold still better off hand (provided they aren't too heavy) and they jump around less when you shoot them either from a bench or prone. Also the more muzzle weight the better chance of recovering to see the impact.

I would bet the combination of the above plus stacked tolerances are the reasons ULW rifles tend to have problems. Criterion use to make Weatherby's barrels when Krieger owned them but I'm not sure who makes them now.

 

[Africa Huntress]

IMO you can't get all of the stress out of a button rifled barrel. As you turn it down and/or flute it the stress tends to show up with groups walking as the barrel gets hot. Most of these light weight semi custom guns run button rifled barrels because they can be had much cheaper than cut rifled barrels. It takes a minute to pull a button through a barrel and 45 minutes to cut rifling. If there is anywhere but the barrel to give up weight give it up there. The barrel is the single most important part of a accurate rifle. I like heavier barrels and muzzle heavy guns because they hold still better off hand (provided they aren't too heavy) and they jump around less when you shoot them either from a bench or prone. Also the more muzzle weight the better chance of recovering to see the impact.

I would bet the combination of the above plus stacked tolerances are the reasons ULW rifles tend to have problems. Criterion use to make Weatherby's barrels when Krieger owned them but I'm not sure who makes them now.

This is exactly the way it was explained to me. We tend to use heavier rifles, but we also understand the desire to cut the weight carried, when walking all day. We have and occasionally still do use gun bearers, but I don't see that practiced much in Europe or North America.

Scotty, Dr. Mike, Guy, if we ever hunt Africa together, I will make sure we hire a gun bearer for you, as most elephant guns are not featherweight rifles (-;

Brooke, I do not own a 257 Weatherby and don't remember ever shooting one, so I have no recommendation to give you, but wish you all the best with your project.

Best Regard

Jamila

 

[DrMike]

Scotty, Dr. Mike, Guy, if we ever hunt Africa together, I will make sure we hire a gun bearer for you, as most elephant guns are not featherweight rifles (-;
Jamila

If we ever hunt Africa together? We're planning on this! :mrgreen:

 

[Thankful Otter]

LOL---Dr Mike, I bet if you hand Scotty a 10 pound holland and holland double and tell him we are going elephant hunting, he would carry it all day without a problem Guy might want a gun bearer, Dr Mike, you and April could go in one of those rigs that has a chair on two poles--you could even hold your own guns, since they are carrying you, LOL Wait, April wasn't invited---just you get the chair ride

 

[DrMike]

Very kind thoughts, Cheyenne. I thought Scotty would be carrying me. Ol' guy like me needs all the help he can get. :mrgreen:

 

[SJB358]

Very kind thoughts, Cheyenne. I thought Scotty would be carrying me. Ol' guy like me needs all the help he can get. :mrgreen:

I've got ya buddy!

 

[DrMike]

Consequently, Cheyenne, we will always make room for a lady. April can ride in a sedan chair. Bet there are plenty of bearers willing to tote her through the tall grass. :lol:

 

[Europe]

Consequently, Cheyenne, we will always make room for a lady. April can ride in a sedan chair. Bet there are plenty of bearers willing to tote her through the tall grass. :lol:

thank you kind sir

unfortunately, it would possibly be the only way I would be able to do it today.

Scotty, do you have any featherweight or ulw rifles and have you found them to be a little more trouble or at least time consuming to shot, zero in, practice with, etc. ?

 

[Dr. Vette]

I have a Mark V ULW in 257 Weatherby. It was swapped into a McMillan stock by Hill Country Rifles, and is probably the most accurate rifle I own. It will place factory Ballistic Tip or AccuBond ammo under 1/2 inch at 200 yards. Dad has one in 7mm Wby that has also shot well, and he has taken antelope at 500+ and 800+ yards with it.

You're not going to use a ULW as a target shooter, running 50 rounds through it in a day. I shoot mine a couple of times to verify zero before using it, and that's it. Now that I know what it can do, I leave it alone other than knowing it's the rifle I'd most likely grab for accuracy.

 

[SJB358]

I've got a couple light rifles April. They shoot fine. I need to mind my shooting with them a little more, just to keep my form in mind but they are still very accurate without too much trouble.

 

[truck driver]

I've had several light weight rifles in the past and find they can be a challenge to get use to after shooting heavy weights but like everything else to be successful you need to practice with it to be consistent. Hard holds and trigger pull is the same for any shooting and recoil needs to be factored in also since the light rifles will recoil more causing upset in your follow thru.
A lighter trigger pull helps also since it will keep you from pulling off the target.
I try to maintain as light a trigger pull as possible that is safe on my rifles.
Being accomplished hunters and shooters I think we all know that even a heavy rifle with a heavy trigger pull can be a bear to shoot accurately so a light rifle with a heavy pull can be even worse.

 

[alaska100]

thanks to everyone who responded.

idahoctd, my uncle agrees with you about the cut rifled barrel

we will go the custom route, but still not sure about the weight of the gun. I don't want to "cut" weight by going to a light barrel, but since we will be custom fitting the stock, I am sure we will lose some weight there, as I am smaller than most men.

I did get the opportunity to shot a few calibers/rifles this week, including the 257 Weatherby. It probably takes some getting use to, but my first reaction to a "featherweight" was not good.

again thank you all so very much

Brooke

 

[IdahoCTD]

I'm sure with your uncles help you'll get it figured out Brooke, but like I said if you need help just ask.

Nathan

 

[69gto]

Brooke, I am curious about how much the feather weight rifle you shot weighed. Personally I consider a rifle that weighs under 7lbs. scoped a feather weight or ultra light. I would call a 8lb. scoped rifle a medium weight. I have 5 rifles weighing between 6.75 and 10.5 lbs scoped and the lightest is just as accurate as the rest but way harder to hold steady and almost impossible to swing on a running target.