Bell and Carlson stock fit needs work

Chesty Puller

Beginner
Dec 1, 2024
44
30
Hey guys, just got my new B&C stock for Abolt and I really like it, but the fit is not good. I had planned on bedding it myself if it fit nice and did not need inletting. Unfortunately its gonna need some heavier grinding/sanding and would rather take it in to have it done.
When I mounted the B&C stock to the rifle and screwed down and not even tight, the barrel pulls into left side of the stock, the magazine plate will not close, and the saftey is bound/stuck. I'm thinking there is a couple high spots on the right side near the bolt/mag well of the rifle and too low near the trigger gaurd. I was able to get the mag plate closed but with the screws backed way out.
Has anybody else had troubles with after market stocks? I was quoted at $150 to skim bed the pillars and lug area but like I said I planned on doing it myself (after watching some tutorials). I want this to be real nice and am going to have a Smith do it do to the complications. What do you think the price tag will be to fit and bed if the price was $150 just to bed? What did you do when/if you had this problem? I am not blaming B&C and they say this can be the case sometimes. I got this on a good sale price. They actually gave me sale price after sale was over when I called and spoke with them. I know I'm gonna love it when its done and cant wait to shoot it again. Hit me up with your imput.
 

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To add to my initial post I did find it odd that there was paint on the pillar blocks and fit areas. Here is a couple photos what you think?
 

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do the pillars look centered , and straight ? as long as the pillars are correct the stock can be relieved where needed . you can do a lot of work with a Dremel . from a few fine touch ups , to major hogging it out . try to look for places the stock is touching and relieve them .

I did a write up on one I bedded , maybe something in my post will help you .

 
My guess is that the pillars aren't straight and the depth of the inlet is somewhat off. If it sets crooked in the barrel channel just remove the amount needed to relieve it from touching. As for the action, magwell area you can coat the bottom and sides of the action with inletting black or use lipstick then drop it into the stock lightly tighten screws, let sit few minutes, remove action and any place the inlet black is on the stock you will need to remove. Little bit at a time. Recoat action if needed and repeat process until no more black shows on stock. This is how you inlet parts into a muzzle loader stock and others don't see why it shouldn't work for your problem.
 
do the pillars look centered , and straight ? as long as the pillars are correct the stock can be relieved where needed . you can do a lot of work with a Dremel . from a few fine touch ups , to major hogging it out . try to look for places the stock is touching and relieve them .

I did a write up on one I bedded , maybe something in my post will help you .

Thanks Jim, I looked over your post quickly and that bedding jobs looks awsome. I will read it fully and I will definatly learn from that. Looks like the blocks are center but the block at the trigger guard screw has a heavy step on it from paint perhaps or just were the composite meets the block or both? Hard to tell where block begins do to paint in it.
 
My guess is that the pillars aren't straight and the depth of the inlet is somewhat off. If it sets crooked in the barrel channel just remove the amount needed to relieve it from touching. As for the action, magwell area you can coat the bottom and sides of the action with inletting black or use lipstick then drop it into the stock lightly tighten screws, let sit few minutes, remove action and any place the inlet black is on the stock you will need to remove. Little bit at a time. Recoat action if needed and repeat process until no more black shows on stock. This is how you inlet parts into a muzzle loader stock and others don't see why it shouldn't work for your problem.
Perhaps as I've just eyeballed it. I have contact on both sides above mag well currently. The screws went in pretty easy would this mean it is center? I will try the lips stick trick as I was try to think of a way to show highs and lows. That will do it.
 
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The first thing I do with a new B&C stock is chuck up a small drum sander in the drill press and relieve around the action screw so the bottom metal drops in smoothly. I’ve had to do this to every one I bought. A couple I’ve had to shimmed the back action screw to level the bottom metal.
 
The first thing I do with a new B&C stock is chuck up a small drum sander in the drill press and relieve around the action screw so the bottom metal drops in smoothly. I’ve had to do this to every one I bought. A couple I’ve had to shimmed the back action screw to level the bottom metal.
Is this what you mean as bottom metal? Because on my stock there is a step right here creating a high and definately not level. Trigger gaurd side appears to be level and flush. Stock photo is were step is and raises high.
 

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What I’m referring to is the bottom. IMG_6498.jpeg
Every stock for B&C needed to be cleaned up so the bottom metal/trigger guard drops in smoothly. That’s the biggest issue I’ve found with them on the Wby MarkV and Vanguards.
 
Pretty sure the problem is at the action screw area get big movement when this is torched down but the oppisite side of where you are talking about RL338. The barrel rises as it pivots on that high, which also burries the saftey slide into stock. I think if rear block area was milled flush to the world the rest would be ok. As dry fit looks and lines up fine with screws started barrel even fairly center. I dont think it will be too tough. I will get back to you guys after Christmas I do have 20 reloads ready to test as well. I loaded 165g sierra TGK with A4350. 30-06 and was my only hunting rifle for years its been unfired for several years. Thanks alot guys merry Christmas.
 
+1 on using the lip stick to see where it is contacting. And like RL said you typicaly need to clean up the overspray and splatter on the B&C stocks I've even had some masking tape that never got removed.
 
If you have a gunsmith that you have confidence in, spend the $150. It’s not sounding like you would come out of this with a happy result by doing it yourself. Bedding a rifle is not like changing a tire. Even the better brands like H-S Precision ands McMillan require some fitting.

I would expect to pay better gunsmith as much as $300 to bed a rifle with pillars.
 
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