elevated box stands

jimbires

Handloader
Aug 16, 2011
3,110
1,742
we're going to put up three elevated box stands on the lease . we wanted them big enough for two hunters . I've got one built , just waiting for plexiglass to get dropped off , so I can put the windows in . then I can start on box #2 . I'll get them built , then on a nice day I'll move them out in the grass and paint them .

we got some old utility poles that we'll put in the ground to set these box stands on . probably they'll be about 10 or 12 feet high .

box blind 1.jpg

box blind 2.jpg

box blind 3.jpg

box blind 4.jpg
 
one guy brought me two basketball backboards to cut up for the windows . this stuff is 1/2" thick, I'm guessing plexiglass . I get one blind from one backboard . I cut the first one up with my jig saw , it took forever . I tried as fine as 32 TPI blade , as course as 6 TPI blade ,the best was the 8 TPI blade. any suggestions on cutting 1/2" plexiglass ? I'm open for suggestions .
 
Jim,
The blind looks great. I built one and bought two that were Amish made. Even with the current lumber prices that have come down, I can't build one for what I'm paying for the Amish made blinds. We stained the blinds with stain we bought for Lowe's. It was tinted to a wrong color. I've had them add tint to something gray- brown. Really doesn't matter when it $10 a gallon!
I've got a set of pallet forks for my tractor so I can move the blinds into a location.
I'm going to build platforms to raise the blinds. I'm only going to go about 6-7' above the ground because my tractor loader can only go about 8'.
Telephone poles would be great. I'll probably use 8x8" timbers.
Post pictures of your blind with you get it raised.

JD338
 
I’ve found the older you get enclosed hunting stands become a must. Or it’ just getting colder and windier these days.
The only draw back I notice is the one I have in the woods is you can’t hear deer sneaking around unless the windows are open.
 
On our recent travels in Texas I was surprised at the number and locations of box blinds we saw. On occasion we saw them within 100 feet of the house or barn. Others were stretched out on a line, 4 or 5 of them, about 400 yards apart. We saw more than a few that were right next to the highway, of course one overlooked the deer crossing sign. Every small town feed store we passed had them on display. Deer hunting is serious business in Texas.
Seems like a good idea if you’re on a piece of private ground. I’m surprised I don’t see more of them in Eastern Oregon around the alfalfa fields. Catherine said she wanted me to build one near the creek crossing so she can shoot the garden raiding mule deer we have. I pointed out she could just as easy use the window in the spare bedroom.
 
I like your box blinds! I have an open box blind that was built on location 30+ years ago. Because we have to cross a marsh first it is hard to get any kind of a prebuilt blind and the equipment to lift it into the location (which I don't have). I guess we could do it in the winter when the marsh is froze but then there is the issue of cold, snow and trying to anchor it and would still have to hire someone with the equipment to lift. Because of these issues I've been looking at a modular prebuilt blind from Orion. They are spendy but It is the best that I've found that is going to meet my long term needs and not having to have big equipment onsite to put it up.
 
I have this first one is pretty much finished. I need to buy a box of screws , and fasten the plywood some more . the guys say , I'm building two more . it seems to have turned out pretty good .

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Looks very good and much like what we use most of the time.
Add a plank for elbow rest and a sandbag, and you can shoot very steadily.

If you want it less noisy in the rain, use wood for the roof and put the film you use for pools/ponds on it instead.
 
thanks Fellas , it seems to have turned out good .


we are going to put these up in the open fields over looking the food plots . it's so windy the guys hunting freeze out in a couple hours . the one guy works for a tire dealer that services off road equipment . he has access to their truck with the big lift arm . he's not sure exactly how high it lifts , but we are planning on using it to lift the blinds up on our legs . I'm figuring screwing a couple boards to the outside of the blind with long ends sticking out , kind of like a military stretcher . rope around the boards and bring the rope up over the blind roof and lift . the fields are pretty hard ground through the summer , so I don't think we'll have any problems getting the truck in and out . these trucks are in the coal strip mines all the time . I sure will try to get some pics of them when we're getting them raised , and finished .

these will all be 4'x6' and 6' high . they were running around getting prices , the best price they got for this size was $600 . these had window holes , no windows . one hole per side . the hole is about 15" square . built out of rough cut lumber , no shooting rails . I have right at $350 in this one I built , just as you see it . it has a 2x6 shooting rail all the way around . I told the guys we'll go to the home stores and check on mismatched paint . I thought it would be cheap . so with a coat of paint and ?? we should be under $400 each .
 
The shooting box looks great. It's always nice to have plenty of room in the box and a roof that isn't too low where gun muzzles tend to tap it at the worst possible moment. Personally, I like long roof overhangs over all windows. This helps block the sun and the rain when conditions aren't favorable.
 
Those stands look exceptional. I'm looking to build one this year, and I may have to steal some of your design. Are you planning on insulating it at all? I was thinking of using that styrofoam board-type stuff to supplement the propane heater.
 
one guy brought me two basketball backboards to cut up for the windows . this stuff is 1/2" thick, I'm guessing plexiglass . I get one blind from one backboard . I cut the first one up with my jig saw , it took forever . I tried as fine as 32 TPI blade , as course as 6 TPI blade ,the best was the 8 TPI blade. any suggestions on cutting 1/2" plexiglass ? I'm open for suggestions .
Since your cutting in a straight line try using a circular saw with a plywood blade reversed. I have cut Plexiglas using this method but it was only 3/8" thick.
 
Those stands look exceptional. I'm looking to build one this year, and I may have to steal some of your design. Are you planning on insulating it at all? I was thinking of using that styrofoam board-type stuff to supplement the propane heater.


we are not going to insulate them to start . we are going to see how they work out first . we will put a buddy heater in each of them when it starts to get cold and see how they do . I'm worried about bee's getting in the insulation , or between the insulation and plywood . nothing worse than being cooped up with a bee's nest .

do you have an idea how big you're going to build ? the reason I ask is , I have pics of 4' square I'll gladly post up if you think they would help you . these are stands I've hunted out of in N.Carolina . they don't have windows , but could give you an idea .
 
Since your cutting in a straight line try using a circular saw with a plywood blade reversed. I have cut Plexiglas using this method but it was only 3/8" thick.


I thought about trying a circular saw , now that I have scrap I will . I also thought about a hose slowly running water to keep it cool while I cut .
what seems to be happening is the blade is hot enough to melt the plexiglass . as I cut it's fusing back together behind the saw . when I stop cutting I have to quickly remove the saw or it's stuck , same with drilling the holes . I had a 1/4" drill bit stuck tight enough I had to warm it with a propane torch to get it out . I've never worked with plexiglass this thick . my experience is with 1/8" .
 
I thought about trying a circular saw , now that I have scrap I will . I also thought about a hose slowly running water to keep it cool while I cut .
what seems to be happening is the blade is hot enough to melt the plexiglass . as I cut it's fusing back together behind the saw . when I stop cutting I have to quickly remove the saw or it's stuck , same with drilling the holes . I had a 1/4" drill bit stuck tight enough I had to warm it with a propane torch to get it out . I've never worked with plexiglass this thick . my experience is with 1/8" .
What if you made your cut only 1/8" deep on each side and then snapped it? You could probably sand down the rough edge. I've never done this; just thinking out loud.
 
The shooting box looks great. It's always nice to have plenty of room in the box and a roof that isn't too low where gun muzzles tend to tap it at the worst possible moment.
The stand I have in the woods has that exact issue. I made it years ago to take the kids out with me out of left over steel from my shed. Several years later I decided to fully enclose it. Well it’s a little tight to get a barrel out the window without making enough noise to wake the dead. Lesson do not make a stand out of steel.
 
What if you made your cut only 1/8" deep on each side and then snapped it? You could probably sand down the rough edge. I've never done this; just thinking out loud.
that's an idea too , I didn't think of . sanding the edge is no big deal , I'm doing it now .
 
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