Failure to trim?

Well, I finally got my rifle to a smith who has a set of go/no-go Gauges for my 250 Savage, Short version of the long story is, that the bolt will close (with some effort) on the no go gauge. Smith estimated that the lugs are "set back" about .003 of an inch. He did not suggest it was unsafe to shoot, but definitely works the brass hard. He suggested "no max loads and minimal shoulder bump and newer brass". Will try some newer brass and reload some and see how it goes. I wont probably shoot the rifle as much, and my opportunities will likely be limited anyway due to age and health issues. If I wasn't so sentimental about the old girl I'd probably sell it. If it keeps blowing cases with newer brass I may explore the possibility of rechambering it to 25-06. Winter, time and shot shoulders are working against me though. We will see. Thanks to all who have followed this and offered help and advice. CL
 
Update coming when I can stand it. My 250 is Dead. This way I can find the thread back. CL
 
Your rifle may be able to be fixed by a good gunsmith. It will cost some money but might be worth you keeping the rifle and using it. I'm thinking of getting a digital scale myself so I can read the numbers easier. Good luck with whatever you decide!
 
Ok - if you've been keeping up,(but why would you...) you know that I've been battling with the old 250 savage. About a year ago, I made a mistake and over charged a some loads and locked up the bolt. (See above..) I assumed that once we got the bolt open I was good. However, I'm guessing that the cumulative affect of that and the years of shooting have finally had their affect. Recently trying out the some what reduced load for my model 99 the following happened to my Mauser:

Shot it a couple times, split a case, removed that, shot a couple more times and then the bolt wouldnt open again. (Split cases didnt surprise me too much, this is really old brass.) Got it back from the smith on Monday and this is what we found:

Second photo shows bolt w/ the safety lug broken off. Third photo shows the crack through the front lug. I am looking to find a comercial Mauser bolt, but even if I do the head space will likely be off with a "replacement bolt". These changes DID NOT happen simply as a result of firing the group pictured. Charges were verified w/ two separate scales and the same load shot successfully in my model 99.

The ultimate disposition of my Mauser is unknown. For now it sets in the safe. Further reloading is on hold too. Hopefully some one can learn from my mistake and misfortune.
On a personal note- its just a rifle- steel and wood- but breaking it feels like the equivalent of "running over the dog" with the car. Kinda heart sick. Many good memories tied up in that rifle.
 

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Sorry to see this Troy. That bolt doesn't look good. You should be able to find a replacement and go from there. You might have to have the barrel set back but a gunsmith will be able to tell you that. Maybe a new bolt and a rechamber job to 25 Creedmoor or a bigger round might work?
 
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Troy,
Sorry to hear about the bolt issues. Hopefully you can pick up ba bolt and have your gunsmith reset the barrel for a reasonable fee.

JD338
 
Not sure if we're still talking about chamber length but....
Here's some of my max chamber length guages. I cut half the neck with a dremel, debur and chamfer. I ream the cut off piece to about. 001" tension on a bullet. 20231201_150131.jpg20231201_150144.jpg
Seat a bullet in the case.
Chamber and carefully extract, measure and repeat a couple of times.

I take the max chamber measurements on a NEW barrel, that way I know there's no carbon deposits in the chamber.
 
Not sure if we're still talking about chamber length but....
Here's some of my max chamber length guages. I cut half the neck with a dremel, debur and chamfer. I ream the cut off piece to about. 001" tension on a bullet. View attachment 21546View attachment 21547
Seat a bullet in the case.
Chamber and carefully extract, measure and repeat a couple of times.

I take the max chamber measurements on a NEW barrel, that way I know there's no carbon deposits in the chamber.
Interesting idea. Like that line up of cartridges, bonus points for the 27 Nosler and 270 Bee.
 
Pretty sure I remember you having a 243 so at least you have something to hunt with until you can get your 250 savage up and going. Also I thought you took a deer with a 12 gauge slug a while back so hopefully you can still do that as well. Either way wishing you all the best hunting and also with your 250. Every time someone posts something up about a 250 Savage I bet we all instantly think of you!
 
On a personal note- its just a rifle- steel and wood- but breaking it feels like the equivalent of "running over the dog" with the car. Kinda heart sick. Many good memories tied up in that rifle.
Not quite as bad as your Mauser , the Wby laminate stock on my 375 gave up on me this fall. A stock is much simpler to resolve than your bolt.
IMG_4146.jpegIMG_4154.jpegIMG_4157.jpeg
I have a H-S precision on order.
 
Holding out for an FN comercial Mauser bolt. They are more difficult to find and spendy. Not reallt interested in a reforged Mauser. As noted I have a things to tide me over....and several folks looking for a bolt. Just not sure its worth that much, except sentimentally. CL
 
I'm not a gunsmith either but I do fool around with them a lot. I have had several bolts that I could'nt open by hand, mostly due to me tickling the dragons tail and at least one due to not trimming cases. But what I've always done, right ot not, was to take a rubber hammer and whack the bolt handle good a few times. A few were really stubborn but I've always got them open with no damage.
It's been a long time since I've had a stuck bolt because I learn from those kind of experiences as we all should.
 
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