Finished Neck Turned Brass

[longrangehunter]

As much as I hated doing this project...... the finished result turned out perfect turning the 308 Winchester brass first and then necking down vs. the other way around. I used some "0000" steel wool to polish the necks after all the prep work was done.

 

[hubcap]

Nice eye candy. Hope the brass performs well for you.

 

[Wincheringen]

Ooooo shiny!

 

[skidmark]

I like it shiny !

 

[DrMike]

Freshly turned brass always looks very attractive. It represents such potential and offers such wonderful dreams. Trust they fulfil every anticipation.

 

[kraky]

Only have to do it once. Fwiw....if you don't mind win brass the necks are thinner to begin with and after downizing to 708 will be as thin or thinner than other brands.

 

[longrangehunter]

I looked for over a year to find Winchester 7mm-08 brass, and never did find any. So I was left necking down the Lapua brass.

I have been fire forming the brass while tweaking the load a little, before I had used standard large rifle F210M primers. I switched to F215M mainly because of the type of powder, H-414, and playing with the seating depth. So far it seems to prefer a longer jump to the lands, .030", using the 168 SMK. This is suppose to be the load I end up using at the Match in March and in June.

Although I have an issue keeping the front swivel stud attached to the stock during recoil using a bipod..... this has been an ongoing issue. Any suggestions would be helpful?

 

[Hegland]

Looking good!

So I was left necking down the Lapua brass.

I suppose there's worse conundrums for a guy to be in...

 

[russ808]

Ohhhh. Bling, Bling brass. Nice.
Russ

 

[Wincheringen]

Although I have an issue keeping the front swivel stud attached to the stock during recoil using a bipod..... this has been an ongoing issue. Any suggestions would be helpful?

Loctite, teflon tape, epoxy glue?

 

[longrangehunter]

Although I have an issue keeping the front swivel stud attached to the stock during recoil using a bipod..... this has been an ongoing issue. Any suggestions would be helpful?

Loctite, teflon tape, epoxy glue?

Loctite would work because it's not a metal to metal stud. Tried JB Weld.... that lasted for two shots. I'm thinking maybe bedding compound? Or some other epoxy?

 

[BeeTee]

How is the swivel stud attachment failing?

 

[longrangehunter]

Hey BT,

It gets pulls out from the stock while attached to a bipod under fire. This last time it didn't come out all the way, but pulled out a 1/4".

 

[IdahoCTD]

Put a aluminum or stainless stud in from the top side/barrel channel. Use a mill bit or a flat bottom drill bit and epoxy it in place. I would probably do a piece of stainless 3/8" or 1/2" wide and at least 1" long to try and spread the load the bipod will exert on the forearm. It would probably require a mill bit to open the stock but epoxy fixes a lot of poor stock work.

 

[BeeTee]

Hey BT,

It gets pulls out from the stock while attached to a bipod under fire. This last time it didn't come out all the way, but pulled out a 1/4".

I assume the legs of your bipod fold forward toward the muzzle? This way, spring tension is (mostly) the only opposing force during recoil.

The Boyd laminated wood stock I have on my Rem 700 7RM has a milled slot in the barrel channel to reduce weight, which makes the wood at the swivel stud only about 1/4-3/8" thick. I thought about recoil when using the Harris bipod... so I epoxied a washer over the swivel stud hole (on the inside) then reinstalled the swivel stud. No change in external appearance, and no problem after quite a few range sessions.

 

[longrangehunter]

Put a aluminum or stainless stud in from the top side/barrel channel. Use a mill bit or a flat bottom drill bit and epoxy it in place. I would probably do a piece of stainless 3/8" or 1/2" wide and at least 1" long to try and spread the load the bipod will exert on the forearm. It would probably require a mill bit to open the stock but epoxy fixes a lot of poor stock work.

I found a HD threaded front stud that screws into a round housing that has a larger round top, looks like a "T" from the side view. It has rough sides with grooves to grip into the epoxy once bedded. Should work really well once I get it installed, waiting for new bedding compound since mine dried out from sitting around too long.

 

[elkeater2]

If you get the front stud threaded into that round housing, you can also "stake" the stud by using a center punch on it and the housing, sometimes that helps. I'd put a pretty good dent in it.

 

[longrangehunter]

That sounds like it might work well, but I was going to use Red thread locker on it instead.

 

[Guy Miner]

I've had to repair/replace a number of sling swivel studs that just broke. All Rem 700's, all with bipods, all in SWAT use.

Got some new swivel studs from Brownells, along with the nut. Ground out the area for them, and epoxy bedded them. Working better. No repeat business, which either means they're getting their rifles fixed elsewhere (not likely) or the repair is holding.

Guy

 

[elkeater2]

I've had to repair/replace a number of sling swivel studs that just broke. All Rem 700's, all with bipods, all in SWAT use.

Got some new swivel studs from Brownells, along with the nut. Ground out the area for them, and epoxy bedded them. Working better. No repeat business, which either means they're getting their rifles fixed elsewhere (not likely) or the repair is holding.

Guy

Yep Guy, I do the same, and add another anal touch. I drill out the space for the 'nut' with a flat bottom drill, and screw it together with the flat - not the rounded- part of the nut in the hole first. Then Devcon 10110 to seal it off. My theory being the flat-to-flat creates even greater resistance, vs. the rounded part wanting to wiggle on in with forces pulling on it. I did say anal, right? :lol: