Help with range card

Elkman

Handloader
Apr 4, 2010
4,555
36
I am having issues with updating my range card for my 300 WM. I cannot get the computer calculations to come anywhere close to matching reality. I have three known target distances. 300, 425 and 615 yards. The rifle is zeroed at 300 yards. When I shoot at 425, I add 15 'clicks" of elevation and at 615 yards I add 46 "clicks", to hit the target. When I run JBM and Hornady I come up with similar results, showing that I need to add 2.8 MOA and 7.5 MOA respectively. This in no way matches real world data. For my entry data I am using 1000 feet elevation, .474 BC, G1 drag, for the 180 PT, 3000 fps, 70 degrees, 29.53 (hg), and 1.5 in of sight height. So in essence the rifle doesn't shoot as flat as the computer generated data by a large margin. I have finessed the data and have verified the distances several times, but cannot come close. Any idea's as to what is going on here?
 
Have you tried dropping your muzzle velocity Bill? That may get you closer. You also probably have more than 1.5" of scope above the bore. I tend to use 2" for most of the programs.
 
Scott, Yes I went down to 2800 but still not close, and I will try 2" with the scope height, and see what happens.
 
Wrong BC...

Use .359 G1 ...you can tweak that a few points in either direction to get a perfect match to "your" components.

.359 is the BC of the 180 PT as measured in live fire testing at long range by Bryan Litz....some of Noslers advertised BC's are pretty darn close (160 AB, 129 ABLR), but most are not.

Not at all a slam against Nosler...just a proven scientific fact.
 
Unfortunately making a range card off DOPE, (Data On Previous Engagement) is old school, and not being used anymore because the BC's are off, and so can the ballistic programs being used based on the wrong data.

What's being done now is finding the actual algorithm the bullet’s flying on, called truing.

Basically working backwards from the furthest out you can shoot, like at the transonic zone of the round being used. Doesn't matter what the BC is doing or the MV from a chronograph since the algorithm is tracking perfectly because it was calculated by time of flight, and the MV was done backwards from that data. You'll need to use a custom drag model like what's found on a Kestrel with the Applied Ballistics program.
 
Yep...

Funny thing is...I was doing it that way 30 years ago, lol.

That is, I did the shooting at distance, figured out the drops/windage, and kept notes.

The reason I say that's funny... Because it wasn't long ago that I suggested that method to someone that didn't have all the sophisticated toys to help him.... And all I got for it was laughed at (it wasn't on here).

Granted, it is much easier to do with all the goodies we have today.... But it is not impossible to do without them either.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
 
Thank you all, this evening I will work through all of those options. I cannot believe that a 300 WM with a stiff load of H-4350 is going slower than 2800 fps but as I said I will try all of the above and see how it works out. As suggested I could shoot at some mid ranges and fill in the blanks, but I refuse to drive 30-40 miles to do the same. I am blessed/spoiled to be able to shoot out my back door, but there is a lot of sky between my shooting position and the three distances, thats why they are exact. My 7MM Mag shoots exactly with the ballistics calculator, so I know that I will make this work satisfactorly.
 
Thank you all for the assistance, I was able to perfectly match reality by reducing the BC to .350 and used 2900 as the muzzle velocity. I also adjusted scope height to 2.0 inches.
 
the easiest way I've found to measure scope height is to pull the bolt back until it's even with the scopes eyepiece bell . then measure from the center of the scope to the center of the bolt . don't use a caliper , it could scratch the scope lens trying to measure this . from what I've seen it's not a super critical measurement for a ballistic calculator . so on this input , a close measurement is close enough .





this pics a little blurry , but gives the idea .

 
Thank you Jim, I have fussed over that measurement a couple of times, how simple! Many times we try and make things to complicated.
 
I love this forum.... I learn something every time I visit here... I wish I was smart to return the favor. Lol
 
I usually put a Dewey rod from the muzzle end, just use a straw to protect the muzzle while sliding it in all the way to the magazine area with bolt open and measure from the rod to the center of the scope. But Jim's idea is a good one, never thought of that either.
 
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